Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-26-2013, 11:03 AM   #211
2 Rivet Member
 
rowdyATX's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1961 28' Ambassador
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
After way too much thinking about it, I decided to put the bulk of my wiring in conduit. I like the idea for safety as well as flexibility. I will have a 12V set and a 110V set. I am using 1/2" PVC for everything and will use THNN stranded wire in various thicknesses depending on the loads and breakers. Most of it will be 12 or 14awg. The solar wire will not be in conduit. I splurged and bought red and black #6awg stranded wire for the connection between the roof and the charger. I am betting that #6 will be enough to handle all the solar panels I could ever fit on my roof so I think I only have to do that once. Here's a poor pic of most of the curbside conduit. You can't see that it continues to the roof and will be the primary path for the main lights and power to the fans as well as to the cabinets above the front bed. I am using the pull through connectors as little mini J boxes for the 12V side and access points. I'll plan on making some shiny aluminum covers for them after I put on the interior skins. The top path is the 12V and the bottom path is the 110V. The power center will reside just behind the wheel wells. Has anybody tried the all in one power centers that include 110V and 12V distribution and a converter? Seems like it would provide a nice clean installation to me.
Man, I'm glad I just read this!
I'm a Newby doing a shell off. I just bough a roll of reflectix. I have not began wiring yet. Are you blogging any of your work? If not, is be happy have you advise me on this.
I'm wanting to insulate my Ambassador and put up a solar panel. To stay off the grid as much as possible. What can you tell me??
Rowdy
__________________

__________________
rowdyATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 11:08 AM   #212
2 Rivet Member
 
rowdyATX's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1961 28' Ambassador
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by mutcth View Post

Wow! Those trailers actually exist?!? I thought they were only a figment of brochures and a picture or two on Vintageairstream. Love that floorplan and all the windows...

When you mentioned the Caravelle on the VAP I thought it was a 20' like my Minuet. I'd love to see photos too if you don't mind.

Tom
Hi Tom.
I'm starting at ground zero. What floor plan did you go with? Do you have any pics of options. I have a 28' Ambassador and. 22' Cloud. I'm in so far over my head!
Rowdy
__________________

__________________
rowdyATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:24 PM   #213
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyATX View Post

Man, I'm glad I just read this!
I'm a Newby doing a shell off. I just bough a roll of reflectix. I have not began wiring yet. Are you blogging any of your work? If not, is be happy have you advise me on this.
I'm wanting to insulate my Ambassador and put up a solar panel. To stay off the grid as much as possible. What can you tell me??
Rowdy
Hey Rowdy,
I d be happy to tell you anything I can, but I am no expert- just learning as I go like most people here. How far along are you on the shell off? I've got a lot more pictures than just the ones I posted. For the solar panel, I used a Blue Sea pass through to facilitate the wiring and used #6 stranded wire to connect to my future battery location and the roof. If you are going to have more than 400 watts of solar panels, you may want to go even bigger. Best of luck.
Tim
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 06:52 AM   #214
2 Rivet Member
 
rowdyATX's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1961 28' Ambassador
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
The shell is framed and I have disconnected the shell completely. If I can find a buddy, I am going to lift it and pull the trailer out this week, and get the trailer repaired.

Did replace your axles?
__________________
rowdyATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 08:38 AM   #215
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyATX View Post
The shell is framed and I have disconnected the shell completely. If I can find a buddy, I am going to lift it and pull the trailer out this week, and get the trailer repaired.

Did replace your axles?
Good luck with lifting the shell. I ended up raising the shell myself inch by inch with jacks. I put 4 posts solidly into the ground around the perimeter and jacked up the shell in the front until I could get a sturdy board under the shell and on top of the chassis. Then I secured that board to the front two posts and did the same to the back. Then I raised the front 3 more inches and secured it and then did the same to the back. Once I got it high enough, I rolled the chassis out and secured the shell to the posts and kept it there for six months.
I would suggest that you create your own thread about your project and post lots of pictures. You'll get lots of advice from lots of people that way. I have not yet replaced my axles but it is on my list for this summer.
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 11:54 PM   #216
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Ive wanted to be able to run the fantastic fans when I am working inside so I bought a cheap fuse block and am going to try to hook it up to the Univolt and see if it works. I was struggling to figure out the polarity of the power cord since it had been cut off long ago. I made a guess and wired it back together. The ground was obvious. My plan is to ground the Univolt to the trailer floor, hook it up and test the voltage output on the 12V side. If I have the black and white wire backwards on the 110V AC side, would that be dangerous?
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #217
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
Ive wanted to be able to run the fantastic fans when I am working inside so I bought a cheap fuse block and am going to try to hook it up to the Univolt and see if it works. I was struggling to figure out the polarity of the power cord since it had been cut off long ago. I made a guess and wired it back together. The ground was obvious. My plan is to ground the Univolt to the trailer floor, hook it up and test the voltage output on the 12V side. If I have the black and white wire backwards on the 110V AC side, would that be dangerous?
Plugged in the old Univolt and it did hum a bit but it delivered about 13.5 volts so it should be perfect to run fans and to test out some light scenarios. I'm going to buy a couple of LED lights from led4rv like this one... http://led4rv.com/index.php?main_pag...roducts_id=243
I already bought a few from Imtra that I want to check out. The smd based LEDs are so much more efficient it will be tough to use anything else.
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 05:26 PM   #218
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Insulating!!

So far I have installed 7 4x8 sheets of 1" polyisocyanurate board into my Caravelle. I have some pics to share later. I think I have two more sheets or so left to install so I have to go back to HD since I only have one left. It is slow going but the noise reduction is incredible and I think will be worth it.
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 05:34 PM   #219
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
Insulating!!

So far I have installed 7 4x8 sheets of 1" polyisocyanurate board into my Caravelle. I have some pics to share later. I think I have two more sheets or so left to install so I have to go back to HD since I only have one left. It is slow going but the noise reduction is incredible and I think will be worth it.
One thing I've noticed as I wrap up the insulation is that the inside temperature is very manageable even in full on Utah June sun. The inner surface of the insulation is not even slightly warm but the ribs are super hot to the touch. So last chance to inspire me with your great ideas for a thermal break material for the ribs. I've seen several ideas but haven't seen much in the way of "I tried 'this' on my airstream and it worked ...."
Thanks in advance.
Tim
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 12:45 PM   #220
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,907
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
I've got a letter into sales at PolymerSheet.com asking about recommendations on .020 to .0625" sheet polymers..

High Density Polyethylene
Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene
Low Density Polyethylene
Polypropylene
etc..
__________________

Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 01:42 PM   #221
2 Rivet Member
 
rowdyATX's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1961 28' Ambassador
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
Have you looked at putting reflectix against the outer wall reflect the ultra violet sun rays.

It should keep the exterior from getting hot.
__________________
rowdyATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 08:10 PM   #222
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyATX View Post
Have you looked at putting reflectix against the outer wall reflect the ultra violet sun rays.

It should keep the exterior from getting hot.
I installed a layer of reflectix closest to the outer skin followed by a small air gap and then the polyisocyanurate foam. This is really effective at blocking heat transfer through the bulk of the walls (but not the ribs) as well as blocking sounds. My understanding is that the ribs get hot because the outer skin gets hot and that the thicker aluminum of the ribs transfers heat efficiently to the inside. There is no way to keep the ribs from being the same temperature as the outer skin without installing some kind of insulator between the outer skin and the ribs. Doing that would require drilling out every rivet and reinstalling them hoping that the holes would line up again.

It is amazing how much cooler the inside is now after I've installed most of the insulation, but the ribs do get so hot in the southwestern sun that you could burn yourself.
Tim
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 08:23 PM   #223
2 Rivet Member
 
rowdyATX's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1961 28' Ambassador
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
That's good to know.

So can you tell me exactly how you insulated you AS? What type of insulation? And how did you adhere the reflectix to the aluminum? And any pics or advice on wiring...
I'm taking my trailers to have them sandblasted and repaired this weekend so I can coat them and put new axles on them. Since I won't get them back for a while, I'm thinking I could go ahead and install the reflectix. At least the ceiling...
__________________
rowdyATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #224
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 421
Blog Entries: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyATX View Post
That's good to know.

So can you tell me exactly how you insulated you AS? What type of insulation? And how did you adhere the reflectix to the aluminum? And any pics or advice on wiring...
I'm taking my trailers to have them sandblasted and repaired this weekend so I can coat them and put new axles on them. Since I won't get them back for a while, I'm thinking I could go ahead and install the reflectix. At least the ceiling...
I cut strips of reflectix 1 to 2" wide and attached them to the outer walls with 3M adhesive. This was a spacer layer to provide an air gap. I then cut reflectix to fit the shape of each opening and glued it to the reflectix spacers. I then used aluminum foil tape to seal all the pieces of reflectix to the ribs and provide a vapor barrier. I then cut 1" thick polyisocyanurate(foil on both sides) to fit each opening and attached them into place with foil tape flush to the inside surface of the ribs. Ill try to remember to take some pics. Where there were seams between panels (not at the rib), I used spray foam to connect the pieces and improve the fit.

For the wiring, I ran 1/2" PVC conduit along both sides of the airstream for both 12v and ac power. I put boxes wherever I wanted outlets or switches. I used conduit pull boxes throughout as access points (I'll cut out the inner skin where they are and make a simple oval cover held on by screws out of aluminum). This will allow me to add circuits as needed. I put in a 30A marine inlet on the back left and ran a conduit under the floor to bring power to the power center and batteries which will be in the back rear. I ran a couple wires front to back along the ceiling without conduit just in case as well as a couple wires along the ceiling side to side for lights from a switch box. I'm going to take good,measurements so that I can find the wires after I put on the inside skin.

Good luck. I would seal the crap out of everything before you do any insulation. Seal every inside seam with Vulkem and seal outside with Parbond. Go out in a big rainstorm and watch very carefully for any sign of leaks. Also think about any new exterior penetrations like vents or inlets and do them while you can reach both sides of the outer skin.
__________________

__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1980 caravelle, 20', caravelle


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Frustrating lack of information on equipment used in new AS Bruce B Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 28 08-11-2013 10:44 PM
Doing full monte on my '58 Traveler Chlyman 1958 Traveler 77 06-13-2013 07:36 PM
New Air conditioner advice? marzboy Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 92 07-26-2012 10:41 AM
old flange flush with new subfloor? valontjej Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 10 03-13-2012 11:52 AM
New member here! Please be gentle... MrsHaase 1965 Safari 17 03-13-2012 09:21 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.