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Old 04-29-2013, 09:00 PM   #197
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Putting in a fantastic fan in the bathroom.

Yikes: cut a giant hole in the roof! 14"x 14"


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Disassembled fan so that I can mostly work from below.
Test fit:

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While I have the giant hole, I'm going to repair the old vent hole and install solar pass throughs from below as well since this will be the last time for a long time that I'll be able to reach that part of the roof without a ladder and very careful crawling.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:25 PM   #198
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Finished installing the fantastic fan. I didn't get the cool Airstream one from VTS because I found this one on adventure RV for less than $100. They don't list the fact that it has a thermostat but it does. I believe it is the 8000 model. The solar pass throughs are just in front of the fan.
Now I am working on wiring on the inside. Wire is expensive

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Old 05-06-2013, 06:25 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
Finished installing the fantastic fan. I didn't get the cool Airstream one from VTS because I found this one on adventure RV for less than $100. They don't list the fact that it has a thermostat but it does. I believe it is the 8000 model. The solar pass throughs are just in front of the fan.
Now I am working on wiring on the inside. Wire is expensive
Looks good!
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:25 PM   #200
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Conduit

After way too much thinking about it, I decided to put the bulk of my wiring in conduit. I like the idea for safety as well as flexibility. I will have a 12V set and a 110V set. I am using 1/2" PVC for everything and will use THNN stranded wire in various thicknesses depending on the loads and breakers. Most of it will be 12 or 14awg. The solar wire will not be in conduit. I splurged and bought red and black #6awg stranded wire for the connection between the roof and the charger. I am betting that #6 will be enough to handle all the solar panels I could ever fit on my roof so I think I only have to do that once. Here's a poor pic of most of the curbside conduit. You can't see that it continues to the roof and will be the primary path for the main lights and power to the fans as well as to the cabinets above the front bed. I am using the pull through connectors as little mini J boxes for the 12V side and access points. I'll plan on making some shiny aluminum covers for them after I put on the interior skins. The top path is the 12V and the bottom path is the 110V. The power center will reside just behind the wheel wells. Has anybody tried the all in one power centers that include 110V and 12V distribution and a converter? Seems like it would provide a nice clean installation to me.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:34 PM   #201
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What do you think about a combined Power Center?

Does anybody know anything about the WFCO power centers? I have a 30A Shore power inlet and don't plan on having more than 3 AC circuits and maybe 5 DC circuits. This looks ideal to me.
WFCO WF8735P WF-8735-P Brown 35 Amp RV Trailer Power Center Converter Charger Camper Trailer RV
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:29 PM   #202
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Sorry, I meant to respond earlier... I still havent dug out the unit I nabbed off ebay to tell you model & make, but I was seriously disappointed with the build quality on a similar unit.

Cheap molded plastics and hardware, has a 30A converter built in. I had to reshape fuse sockets to allow insertion and removal, they were seriously out of alignment. Kind of like found on cheapest possible trailers, not meant for continuous duty.

I'll search the pile in the basement and report back specifics...
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:31 AM   #203
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Progressive Dynamics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
Sorry, I meant to respond earlier... I still havent dug out the unit I nabbed off ebay to tell you model & make, but I was seriously disappointed with the build quality on a similar unit.

Cheap molded plastics and hardware, has a 30A converter built in. I had to reshape fuse sockets to allow insertion and removal, they were seriously out of alignment. Kind of like found on cheapest possible trailers, not meant for continuous duty.

I'll search the pile in the basement and report back specifics...
Thanks Wabbiteer,
The Progressive Dynamics 4045 Mighty Mini All-In-One System AC/DC Power Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter also would suit my needs from a specification standpoint. It costs a bit more, but is still quite reasonable. I really like the compact footprint since I don't have an abundance of storage and it would be nice to have a single access point for electrical issues. Of course, it there is a failure, you are really stuck, but I also plan to install solar so that would offer a redundant system in many cases.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:23 PM   #204
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WFCO WF-8945 is the unit I nabbed for $40 & shipping from a true lost freight surplus outfit on eBay (Cargo Largo, UPS & Yellow Freight). My opinion goes as worth no more than the $55 I paid for it.

I own a Parallax PD-9180 bought before the rehab was deemed unavoidable - its non-wizard output exactly meshes with fixed-voltage/variable current 12V AGM batteries I bought used for $50 and ended up selling as scrap for $32 each. The Parallax has never been out of the box, the batteries never saw inside the trailer.

I have glommed onto Blue Seas switch/fuse/breaker panels when I could snipe them cheaply - battery disconnect, 120/12 breaker panels. I figure a product people trust being 20 miles offshore with might be better than a product designed to survive weekends at Jellystone.

It seems I am in a twilight zone episode orbiting between conflicting standards, I have 24V Solar, heaters, fans and pumps, 24V LED lighting, 24V inverters & charge controllers, 24-12 converters --- all in search for more robust and efficient devices. Don't ask about 12 & 48V items unless you have a mean streak. That is the knowledge I have, anything beyond that is information from reading these past few years.

Anyhow - I see a $200-ish MagneTec 7300's listed in AS 2010 Owners Manuals; no recommendation just noting the old-tradition all-metal frame units are available. Have I seen that Progressive Dynamics 4045 you linked in newer Airstreams? Its a handsome unit, the only caveat is once you commit to its mini-size it would be hard to change to another type...
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:08 PM   #205
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Electrical work.

I finished installing the conduit. I ran separate 110V and 12v conduits that run front to back on each side. The 110V will connect left to right through a liquid tight conduit under the floor. The 12 V connects left to right over the top. I found I could arch the 1/2" PVC conduit across the arc of the roof quite easily. I started running all the wires that won't be in conduit today since those wont be easy to fish through. First I did the Maxxima hybrid lights. They have 2 neutrals each which I attached to the frame, a brake/turn, taillight, and back up lights. There is an extra wire which I have had a hard time cutting off, but I think I will.

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I used 3M butt connectors with a Klein crimping tool that I've been pretty happy with. Every connection got a touch of antioxidant and shrink tubing.

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All the rear clearance lights, the tail connection on the Maxxima lights and the yet to be installed license plate light were connected to one circuit and a brown wire which went to the front through the conduit. Since my floor is solid 1/8" aluminum plate,I am connecting all the neutrals to the ribs and will put in a few extra jumpers for good measure. The two reverse lights were connected to a purple wire which ran to the front. The right brake/ turn got a green and the left brake/turn got a yellow wire ran all the way to the front. All the connections were sealed with heat shrink after mechanical testing (aka a good tug) and I used tape to secure the wires in place with some sag. The insulation is going to hold them up in the end.

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Here is where the conduit comes out near the front left. Also in the conduit are the red wire which goes back to the future home of the battery compartment and the blue wire which will be brakes. Most wires are #14 except the red and blue which are #10.


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I also installed the 6awg wires for the solar which are connected to the Blue Sea 5/16" pass through and secured with a lock washer and a bolt. I tightened them down securely but was wondering if a specific torque may be required. The connections were treated with antioxidant, crimped, and heat shrink on top.


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I decided not to put the solar wires in a conduit since it would have taken two conduits and I don't plan on changing them. 6awg will handle most anything Imcan fit on my roof. I also wired up the front marker lights.


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I also ran the wires for the switches to the lights and the porch light. These also didn't get a conduit, but I thought the amount of conduit was getting absurd so I stopped


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I used little bits of heat shrink to label the ends so I can remember where they went.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:38 PM   #206
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Inlets and outlets

Installed some marine grade inlet for fresh water and a vent. Both are stainless and installed with a bit of Vulkem. Used Olympic rivets for the water fill valve and the vent attached with a nut. The vent had a nice gasket so I used that on the outside and Vulkem on the inside.
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I then attached the SeaDog stainless water inlet. I also used Vulkem and Olympic Rivets.
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I then attached the Furrion 30A stainless inlet. I used #10 stranded wire and connected it first since the plastic interior cover goes on first from the outside. Used a bit of antioxidant on the wires before tightening them down.
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I decided not to use the supplied gasket and instead used a healthy dose of vulkem and attached it with #10 x1" stainless screws. I had to expand the holes on the inlet and I used a 1/8" starter hole in the aluminum shell for the screws. I'll take some pictures of it tomorrow.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:04 PM   #207
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A couple pics of the Furrion 30A inlet.


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Old 05-24-2013, 11:10 PM   #208
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Insulation

So I finally got off the fence and bought some insulation, from the outside in it will be outer skin, small air gap, Reflectix, small air gap, and then 1" polyisocyanurate foam. I started today with strips of Reflectix to make an air gap and then glued it all in with 3M spray adhesive.


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I then sprayed adhesive on the small strips and attached the full pieces of Reflectix that way. It is pretty easy, but time consuming.

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Old 05-25-2013, 09:32 PM   #209
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Reflectix work continues. Got about 3/4 of the way through installation of the Reflectix. It was a typically sunny May day in UT today and the uninsulated skins were way hotter than the Reflectix covered ones. By the end of the day, the Reflectix (and me too) were pretty hot inside. I need to rig up some 12V power so I can unleash my fantastic fans!! Does anybody know an easy way to do that before I buy a new converter. I still have the original Univolt but no fuse block. On the Reflectix, so far I've used 2 1/2 rolls of 48" x 25' and 1 roll of 16" x 25' and 2 1/2 cans of 3M 77 adhesive. The adhesive holds pretty well. I also bought 8 4'x8' sheets of 1" thick RMax polyisocyanurate foam board with aluminum foil on each side. It was about $22 a sheet at Home Depot. Here's a pic of my progress so far:


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Old 05-25-2013, 11:51 PM   #210
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I could say quick-place a solar panel on the roof, adding a limiting resistor in circuit if needed, mount via quickee double sided tape on PV frame pop-riveted L brackets?
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