Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-15-2009, 11:23 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
Electrical layout

First, thanks to Truckasaurus for hooking me up with a SketchUp of the Overlander. The basic floor plan is his idea. Our primary change is the sofa up front rather than a dinette. So, here are a few views... the red boxes are 110v outlets. The blue discs are LED lights. Comments are welcome.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Electric1.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	189.5 KB
ID:	85423   Click image for larger version

Name:	Electric2.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	196.2 KB
ID:	85424  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Electric3.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	224.2 KB
ID:	85425   Click image for larger version

Name:	Electric4.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	206.4 KB
ID:	85426  

__________________

hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2009, 11:26 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
wkerfoot's Avatar
 
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange , California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,462
Hamstead,

How about some 12V outlets for cell phone, blue tooth, ipod etc charging.

Bill
__________________

__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA

http://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
wkerfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Melody Ranch's Avatar

 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1956 16' Bubble
1947 22' Liner
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,423
Images: 72
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
entry step

I put led courtesy lights in the entry step area. From Discount Marine.
I also make sure to have both 110 and 12v on the outside where its available to the awning crowd. Don't put those outside boxes where they are behind an open door......that caused me problems with conflict with the door and the weather box cover and extension cord hook up. I Like your mock up!!
__________________
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 08:21 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
Bill,

I'm thinking about the normal "spaghetti" mess in the truck with cell phones, GPS, etc. I'm trying to think of a location for a tripe marine 12v outlet where all of the stuff can be out of sight. I'm also pondering on the battery location for two AGP batts. I'm trying to keep the weight over the axles. Good thought...
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 09:01 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar

 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Crawford , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,522
Ken, I'd look over floor plans for other brands because some of them have good ideas too.

Electrical: 1. the box (converter?) under the bed would be hard to access if you have to work on it or a breaker flips or fuse blows. Mine is under the bed, but at the front, and I have to lie on my stomach with my feet in the hallway to check things—not a great location, but what would you have to do where you have it? Under the bed should be deep storage, converter up higher somewhere.

2. Given the relative weakness of LED lamps, I think you need a lot more of them. Our trailer has 10 recessed lamps plus several task lights in the main cabin. All but the stove light are LED. There are two reading lamps, plus task lights—one over the dinette table and one over the sink. The lighting is fine, but it takes a lot of fixtures.

3. Is that indirect lighting at each end and at one side? Are they going to be halogen? LED? If LED you'll need a lot of them for general lighting, but less for mood lighting. You can use rheostats on LED's and halogen.

4. I think you need some more 120 v. receptacles because you never know what comes along and they are cheap.

Printer and laptop: We have a dedicated cabinet for a printer and microwave. That is very convenient. You can use a wireless connection to the printer, but I use a USB cable. This leads to what kinds of electronic world cables need to be installed—ethernet, USB, HDMI, satellite? Do you want a an antenna outside for wifi? Are you going to have TV and surround sound? You may not want all of that stuff now, but later? The laptop has to be somewhere and I often put it on the dinette seat when it's not on the table. I don't like putting it away every time I'm not using it. When I do put it away, it goes in it's bag under the dinette seat (it travels in the truck—fewer bumps). Since you don't have a dinette, where are you going to use and keep it?

Shower: is it over the wheel well? Ours is and that makes the space to stand rather limited. Not a lot of options in a 2 axle trailer though.

Kitchen sink: I see a round one. They look nice, but we find a standard double sink to be a lot more convenient.

Bed: Which way does it face? Front to back is best, but space is limited to do so. Will it be long enough? I made the RV queen longer so it fit us better; using a standard mattress would save money and facing it front to back would mean no curves have to be cut in it.

Style: 1960's? Shag carpet? If you want to pick one, my thought it art deco goes well in an Airstream. Taste is very individual.

All I can think of and it's time for breakfast. Keep thinking.

Gene
__________________
Gene is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:11 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
Let's take these in order... having moved well past the breakfast hour. First, I plan to build a frame for the bed. If you look at the attached photograph (from when we first looked at the Overlander), you'll see an access hatch above the rear bumper. I'd like to keep the coach's breaker box and converter under the bed, but accessible through the rear panel.

The picture isnt' very good (looking at the preview), but I think you can make out the "hatch" where the (now defunct) NY license plate is mounted.

The "under bed" storage area will be divided into two part. The aft part which will have all of the electronics/electrical terminations will be accessed from outside the trailer. The forward portion will be used for storing spare linens and other "semi-frequently" used items. I'll try to use the SketchUp software to draw the bed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rear.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	131.5 KB
ID:	85464  
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:18 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
As for lighting, I agree. Installing AC on the roof will result in the loss of one source of natural light. We don't have the VistaView windows in our coach. I'm already anticipated some grief from my better half because she doesn't like the "quality" of LED lighting much. It just doesn't seem as bright as halogens. The real appeal of LEDs are the low power draw, the low maintenance and the absence of heat. I'm sure the bed will need reading lamps that meet the approval of my lovely bride... but the advantage is that all of the terminations are available under the bed. Oh, and personally, I'm not a big fan of the "gooseneck" lamps that came with the Overlander... or the electrician's tape used to hold them to the bulkhead. My biggest concern right now is to establish overhead lighting locations where I'll need to get under the skins. I like LED because I can at least count on getting the coach lighted enough to move about on battery power... sort of an emergency lighting approach.
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:19 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
I agree on the 12v receptacles. I just need to find places for them. We also need to think about a coaxial cable connection for the television. The shower is just a tough fit admidship... but we'll do our best to make it work. Good point on the sink. I kept the original two-basin sink... maybe it will make it back in.
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:21 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
wkerfoot's Avatar
 
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange , California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,462
Quote:
Originally Posted by hampstead38 View Post
Bill,

I'm thinking about the normal "spaghetti" mess in the truck with cell phones, GPS, etc. I'm trying to think of a location for a tripe marine 12v outlet where all of the stuff can be out of sight. I'm also pondering on the battery location for two AGP batts. I'm trying to keep the weight over the axles. Good thought...
Hamstead,

I am putting two of these in several counter tops in the Liner: HOUSING POWER SOURCE AUTOMOTIVE POWER POINTS WIRING ACCESSORIES* - Waytek Wire

This gives the ability to charge in several locations.

The idea was from Uwe.

Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA

http://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
wkerfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:26 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar

 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Crawford , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,522
We've passed the lunch hour, I've worked out, watched Meet the Press and it's getting to be time to fertilize the trees. Ok, good access, better than mine because you can sit on a stool, but will you have to run in and out to see what you've done? Will you be able to keep electrical components dry if (when) the door leaks? Fixing 120 v. in a heavy rain might be interesting unless you wear a rubber suit (good for other purposes which I leave to your imagination). Seems like a good location for 3batteries for extended boondocking though, or even a generator—if you can find a pancake one. Another electrical question: Are you planning on a solar panel?

One of my things is access to all utility systems. Since I seem to only buy houses that need a lot of work, I always provide easy access whenever I can. Airstream is not good at providing access, but if I were building my own interior, I would make everything easy to get to.

It's easy to criticize and I'm good at it. I hope it's useful. Building an interior is the real work.

Gene
__________________
Gene is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2009, 03:35 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar

 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Crawford , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,522
Your bride is right—LED's do not have the lumens and did not have the color rendition we are used to. But the ones we have are fine, you just need more of them. Cheap, older LED's have a blue cast to the color rendition, but the newer ones are quite good and we notice no difference from halogen or incandescent.

Just in case you're not aware of this thread on LED lighting, check it out for where to get bulbs, which to order: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f447...hts-17392.html

The fixtures are another issue. I really like the recessed fixtures in our Safari—it's the one with the aluminum interior. The reading lamps also are cool. But the standard RV plastic fixtures they also used look and probably are cheap. Mixing those in with the others was a bad style decision, but you have lots of options.

Gene
__________________
Gene is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2009, 09:16 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Blog Entries: 22
Uwe does have great ideas. Thanks for the lead.

And Gene... Meet the Press? I have enough trouble facing Monday without watching the talking heads on Sunday.

Access is a big deal for me as well. I can't fix it if I can't get to it. The rear compartment looks relatively good as a central place for electrical terminations, breaker box, converter, etc. I could even pull a page from Truckasauras and put the whole shooting match on a pull-out platform to give me 360 access. While the rear access panel may not be "water resistant" now... it will be by the time I'm done with it.

And, yes, I like the idea of two panels on the aft portion of the coach. One, any generation of electricity is good in a boondocking situation. Two, the shade generation by the panels can't hurt. Three, we're going "green" in the renovation and I like the idea of generating some of our own power without burning fossil fuels.

As for wiring, rather than "plumb" the 110v copper plant through the walls, I am thinking about conduit along the edge of the floor hidden by some wood trim. The conduit would run from the access panel/under bed area along the wall port to the galley and starboard to the bathroom. I could run them through the frame and just "pop up" through the floor, but I'm still thinking about the pros and cons.

I think LEDs are improving and I share your contempt for cheesy fixtures. I hate plastic. On the positive side, I think we have good natural lighting. We'll good with a light color on the interior walls. We'll also supplement the "in wall" wiring with connections to lighting, particularly in the head and galley... two places one really needs to see what one is doing.
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2009, 10:07 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,784
Hey Hamstead38 or Truckasaurus, can either of you point me to where I can find the SketchUp diagrams of the Overlander? I think it would be easier to modify an Overlander into a Soveriegn rather than starting from scratch like I've been trying to do.

Chris
__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2009, 10:42 AM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar

 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Crawford , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,522
Meet the Press isn't so bad when the next day is Saturday, followed by 5 more Saturdays and then Sunday. Saturday means lots of chores, but I can sleep late—well, Sunday is the same with MTP.

I like the idea of conduit, but can't you run it in the cabinets along with the plumbing? Conduit plus wood trim is going to be pretty large and look even larger in the small spaces in the trailer. But maybe you're referring to the run from the bed to the partition—there your solution makes good sense and won't be too noticeable. Glad no wire mold is under consideration. I'd try to locate receptacles in cabinets instead of walls too to keep romex or conduit and other wires accessible—looks like you may be trying to do just that. I like the idea of a slide out panel for all the electrical. I'd try hard to have it inside, but you'd need a 45' trailer for all the stuff I'd try to cram in (like a generator). I know you will seal that door very well, but with the vacuum at the rear of any vehicle, eventually some water will get in. You could have a second inner door, or a plastic sheet hanging down to double isolate electrical.

Our bathroom had 4 1141 incandescent bulbs in those cheapo plastic fixtures. I replaced 2 with LED's and we leave the 2 remaining 1141's off. There's plenty of light. Airstream put in enough lighting for two trailers, so the LED's are good for one trailer. We can leave on the 10 ceiling lights while boondocking and only use little more than one 1141's power requirements. But, for reading in bed or on the sofa, you will need a couple of lamps. My night vision is still almost as good as a 20 year old's, but I need two lamps (task lights work well) to read with LED's. The nice thing about LED's is you can get a weak one and use it as a night light while boondocking and there's almost zero battery drain.

Generator: we have a 1,000 w. Honda. Works great, but with the very long cable to the trailer, it won't run a microwave or toaster very well. Of course, altitude makes a difference and I haven't tried it below 9,000'. I've used it when short days and trees made the the solar panel inadequate. I've thought of getting a short cable for the trailer connection, or just connecting to those appliances directly via an extension cord, but I haven't tried either. I got the generator at a very good price (no box, no manual), so that stopped the internal debate—1,000 or 2,000 or more watts? Our friends have a Class C with a built in generator. How plush is that! I'd love that. I wouldn't have to get it out, connect it…dreams are wonderful.

Time for chores.

Gene
__________________

__________________
Gene is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tank Layout Granny68Air Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 3 04-14-2009 06:52 AM
New layout and idea truckasaurus Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 15 01-29-2009 09:35 AM
Help with interior layout peejicky General Interior Topics 6 11-05-2007 06:56 AM
Is this standard layout bertro Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 04-13-2007 08:03 PM
New tongue layout FrankR Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 0 03-07-2002 08:51 PM




Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

RV & Travel Trailer Communities

Our RV & Travel Trailer sites encompasses virtually all types of Recreational Vehicles, from brand-specific to general RV communities.

» More about our RV Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002-2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.

Airstream News Delivered to your Email!

Stay up-to-date with Airstream news in your inbox!

unsusbcribe at anytime with one click

Close [X]