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06-25-2017, 06:49 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Rotten subfloor
I have properly sealed the rear bumper in our 2007 International Signature CCD 28 and now need to remove and replace the rotten, spongy flooring. The soft spots are on either side of the bed toward the rear of the trailer so I will have to remove the bed and closets.
I have looked inside the closets and cannot see any screws or attachments. Has some done this who can give me some pointers?
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06-25-2017, 07:13 AM
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#2
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,654
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I had a water leak in the back of my 2009 25FB but since I have a front bedroom I didn't need to remove the beds. But I have to remove the dinette and the seating on each side of the dinette so I could have access to the wet floor.
I removed one thing at a time and didn't rush. Kept all the screws in containers and marked where they went. After removing the furniture I had access to the floor. I pealed back the linoleum so I would have access to the sub floor. Nothing was rotted but I did have some soft spots. I applied a two part epoxy sealer to the entire surface after it dried out. It seemed to do what it was supposed to do.
In my case I had to replace the linoleum because it shrank and I could not get it back to the original shape. It was a long drawn out process but I am satisfied with the results and I no longer have the leak. Plus I took the opportunity to replace the dinette with a custom made folding table and a recliner.
So I guess the message is to take it slow and easy and do one thing at a time and eventually it is done!
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06-26-2017, 07:34 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Thanks for the encouragement. So your floor was soft but not rotten? Maybe there's hope for mine. I don't quite understand why sub floor would be soft though. I think the most daunting aspect for me is removing the queen bed platform.
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06-26-2017, 07:53 AM
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#4
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Rivet Puller
2003 28' Safari S/O
Atlanta Burbs
, Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,002
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You will rapidly discover that removing the bed is the easiest part of the project. Getting the floor sections replaced back into the surrounding groove under the wall sections will be the difficult task. There are many posts on floor repair.
Check this forum section for threads:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/
This particular thread addresses the issue I mention:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...nt-165829.html
__________________
"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."
Sir Tristan
Air #48582, S/SO #003, WBCCI #4584
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06-26-2017, 08:08 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2007 27' Classic FB
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 300
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Have you had your AS pressure tested to ensure that the place you sealed is the only source of your leak? I first sealed the bumper area, then had to seal the caulking around the window and still had leaks. Pressure testing showed that the upper seam in the outside aluminum had to be re-sealed. Now no more leaks. I have a FB and had to remove the banquettes and their associated cabinets and the table. I then carefully cut the fabric covering in places where it would show the least to gain access to the inside aluminum covering. I then drilled out enough rivets so I could peal the aluminum back to get to the bolts in the C channel. I pealed the vinyl flooring back until I could get to a brace under the flooring and removed the sub-flooring in pieces. Some of the bolts were in locations that could not be removed and I just cut a notch in the new flooring to fit around the bolts. I then cut new sub-flooring in several pieces (you cannot fit one whole piece in because you must get in under the C channel on either side). I put several coats of sealant on both sides of the sub-flooring. After I installed them and bolted them in, I then caulked the seams between them. I then folded the aluminum back down, riveted it in place, then re-glued the fabric covering.
I replaced the vinyl under the table with contrasting vinyl plank flooring.
__________________
The Tex-i-can is Ready to Camp
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06-26-2017, 08:50 AM
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#6
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpetguy
Thanks for the encouragement. So your floor was soft but not rotten? Maybe there's hope for mine. I don't quite understand why sub floor would be soft though. I think the most daunting aspect for me is removing the queen bed platform.
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Hi
If the water has simply destroyed the glue in the plywood, it will not be as solid as it once was. The epoxy (if it fully soaks in) will be way better glue than anything that the plywood manufacturer used.
Soft can also mean dry rot. Head over to the boat forums to read never ending arguments about how to (or not to) address that. Epoxy or epoxy / fiberglass is indeed one of the alternatives. I've spent a few summers on projects like that ...
Bob
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06-26-2017, 01:59 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Thanks. It all sounds pretty daunting.
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06-27-2017, 05:39 AM
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#8
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpetguy
Thanks. It all sounds pretty daunting.
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It was daunting, but it is doable. I learned a lot and feel confident that I've saved the subfloor.
If I can help in any way please let me know!
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06-28-2017, 07:40 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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I plan to start the project in November when the temp. Is cooler here in NW Florida. Thanks for the encouragement.
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08-11-2017, 12:42 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Wet floor
I am so frustrated. After removing the belt trim at the rear of my trailer. Metal too.caulking with Vulkem, replacing the molding...I still have evidence of water in the corner of the bedroom. I took the new caulk all the way to the wheel well. This is the rear bed International with closets on either side of the bed. I tested for moisture today (lots of rain this Summer) and the meter flashed red. Blue is normal. When I peeled back some of the Linoleum it was apparent that the floor is very wet... mushy, slippery, with that moldy smell you get with wet wood.
Where in heck is the water coming in?
Please. Any suggestions.
Street side, rear bed, in the closet.
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08-11-2017, 12:53 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1995 25' Excella
xxxxx
, xxxxxx
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 2,349
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Do you have exterior storage compartments on back or sides of trailer? If so, try sealing the rivet heads that hold the door hinges.
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08-11-2017, 01:03 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Wet floor
I am so frustrated. After removing the belt trim at the rear of my trailer. Metal too.caulking with Vulkem, replacing the molding...I still have evidence of water in the corner of the bedroom. I took the new caulk all the way to the wheel well. This is the rear bed International with closets on either side of the bed. I tested for moisture today (lots of rain this Summer) and the meter flashed red. Blue is normal. When I peeled back some of the Linoleum it was apparent that the floor is very wet... mushy, slippery, with that moldy smell you get with wet wood.
Where in heck is the water coming in?
Please. Any suggestions.
Street side, rear bed, in the closet.
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08-12-2017, 04:43 AM
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#13
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpetguy
I am so frustrated. After removing the belt trim at the rear of my trailer. Metal too.caulking with Vulkem, replacing the molding...I still have evidence of water in the corner of the bedroom. I took the new caulk all the way to the wheel well. This is the rear bed International with closets on either side of the bed. I tested for moisture today (lots of rain this Summer) and the meter flashed red. Blue is normal. When I peeled back some of the Linoleum it was apparent that the floor is very wet... mushy, slippery, with that moldy smell you get with wet wood.
Where in heck is the water coming in?
Please. Any suggestions.
Street side, rear bed, in the closet.
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I'm sure you feel very frustrated which is understandable!
I can only offer generic advice without seeing your situation. Plus I'm not an expert. But I also had an additional leak that was disguised by the belt line issue. I got a ladder and started at the top. Every seam was investigated and sure enough I found a small crack in the sealant at the top of one of the windows. I resealed it, put some Captain Tolley's on some other rivets that looked suspicious and it solved the problem.
Finding and fixing leaks seems to be the nature of the beast, unfortunately!
Good luck!
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08-12-2017, 05:15 AM
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#14
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Overkill Specialist
Commercial Member
2020 30’ Globetrotter
2014 23' International
Dadeville
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 4,516
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What about top of bumper below bottom belt line. Common area referred to as rear bumper leak?
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08-12-2017, 05:31 AM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Powder Springs
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 33
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I second the bumper leak as a prime suspect. After you dry it up if the woods not to rotten Depot sells a rotten wood restorer, its in the paint section. Hope you find it soon, leaks suck! Once your trailers dry again use the water probe to keep an eye on things.
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08-12-2017, 06:45 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Window and clearance lights, seams etc.
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08-12-2017, 09:15 AM
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#17
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
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Hi
In a lot of cases, you just have to take a deep breath and step back from things for a day or two. Put it all down and go birdwatching When you come back with a clear head, you will look at it a bit differently. Leaks on trailers, boats, and homes can be a real pain to track down, it's just part of the "fun" we signed up for.
Bob
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08-13-2017, 09:08 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2007 31' Classic
Gulf Breeze
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 500
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. I have focused on the top of the bumper area so far and did a good job on that area. Pulled off the flexible molding, removed the metal strip and caulked the joint where the bumper meets the coach. I did not check anything up top including windows or tail lights. I'm putting this on hold until I take the bed and closets out to replace rotten sub floor. This will be in Nov. Dec. when it is cooler here in NW FL. With everything out and the area opened up I can perform more complete testing. Hopefully will be done before Canopener 2018.
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08-13-2017, 09:21 AM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
2008 28' International
Happy Valley
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 270
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I have a 2008 28' International with the same leak on the curb side. Took it to the JC and they sealed rear bumper etc... It leaked again like yours and I returned to JC and they found the leak to be the rear window. Might want to seal it while your at it!
Good luck and hang in there.
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08-24-2022, 06:15 PM
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#20
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New Member
2006 28' International CCD
Rhinebeck
, New York
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 2
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i have a 2006 Int'l with a couch in front and a big 18" soft spot in front of couch near the front door-don't know how to research the source of any leak-haven't peeled back the floor yet-what do you think is my first step-any help is appreciated-thanks
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