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08-06-2003, 07:06 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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won't start using the key/no power at all
Help ! !!! i just have had this a whopping 2 weeks and already i have problems with it . it's a 1989 36 ft land yacht 454 chevy
i can start it with the "other" starter button, but when i go to use the key nothing happens no power at all i can't even get the headlights on , and the battery is fully charged and i have no power to the fuse panel, is there a in line fuse on this that i can't find ? any help would be greatfull........kevin
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08-06-2003, 07:38 AM
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#2
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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There are a number of fusable links. I would look on the engine, just in front of the alternator to see if you have a melted one there (if they used the same configuration I have). You could also check to see if there is ca connection point on the starter that has multiple wires. There may be one there.
The assist button is combining the 2 battery systems together to get you started.
Does the alternator gauge read normal when you get it started?
Do you have power to the fuse panel once it starts?
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-06-2003, 08:31 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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thanks for the reply , i don't know about the power at the fuse box,but after i start it everything works correctly alt gauge wipers headlamps dash ect....and when i go to start it i need to leave the key on the "on" positoin and when i go to shut it off i can use the key and it shuts right off ........but then when i go to use the key nothing no headlamps ect........thanks kevin
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08-06-2003, 08:41 AM
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#4
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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So correct me if I am wrong here. The headlights will not work with the key off?
If they work with the key off then I would say it is an ignition switch issue, if not then I would start by tracing the leads from the starting battery and verifying voltage down the line. It could be as simple as a bad starter selinoid. Where that is I do not know but you will find it in your search.
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-06-2003, 08:53 AM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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ok i just went and started it and checked all the fuses and they ALL have power and yes you are correct that the headlights will not work when the key is off ........
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08-06-2003, 02:30 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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08-06-2003, 02:39 PM
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#7
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Did you get a set of documentation from GM with the owners manuals?
It should have the wires/colors and their connections. You may be able to request it from a GM manual source for your chassis. I would start with a local GM dealer first. Someone here may have it, but I don't know who.
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-08-2003, 04:52 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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well i think i figured it out the panel by the back door to convert it from 110 to 12 switch seems to be shorting out ......it works when i hear a clicking in the front of the motorhome but there are also 3 silonoids up there , can't wait till the book gets here !!
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08-18-2003, 12:15 PM
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#9
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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Ok i have gotten the books and they were'nt much help , i have also gotten the convertor switch and have replaced that and still nothing......... i have checked the fuses and thay seem to be fine (as long as i hold the panel power switch on to start it , if i let that go the power to the fuse box is gone )......it does talk about a reset button to reset things and i'll be dammed if i can find it , my god this has been a nightmare.....48 more payments and this thing is all mine .........help.....
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08-18-2003, 12:25 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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Check the wiring at the solenoid terminal, power usually feeds from the chassis battery to there and then the rest of the circuits. Sounds like you are getting power from the house battery when you push the button.
John
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08-18-2003, 01:36 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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If your coach has a battery isolator to keep the "engine battery" from running down when you're using the house battery, that may be it.
Or, your engine battery may just be croaked. I'd check the engine battery first.
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08-18-2003, 01:51 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Engine battery or wiring problem on the engine battery end of things. Not know how they tied in the house batteries I'm just going from standard GM truck building.
Check the battery cables and that includes the ground to the block and the ground FROM the block to the rest of the coach.
Typical GM way of doing things is main batery cable down to the starter. At the starter the feeds to the main fuse box tie in. There will be Fusable links in that location. Check those.
If you have the book the can probe the main harness wire into the box. Acually there will be two or three main lines into the box.
Verify all have power. On conventional GM trucks there is a terminal block on the fire wall. It's were items like HVAC blow picks up power. It's a nice convient place to tag power for other items. It will have tow terminals with nuts that like to work loose or are left loose by accident when stuff is added. look for that and verify it's tight.
Check all those solonoids. My bet is one of them has main feeds on it for the self jump feature. Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. The fact that you get no head lights and no power to the box leads me to think it's either main feed to box or what ever they did to get that Self jump feature to work. Ifi ti were mine that's were I would be concentrating on looking.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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08-18-2003, 02:58 PM
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#13
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7
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thanks toaster.........i'll recheck those .....man i can't beleave the wiring on this thing , jump[er wires to cross over to this to that .
this will be fun when it runs ....right ?
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02-23-2010, 04:40 PM
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#14
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New Member
Currently Looking...
1990 36' Land Yacht
Weare
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1
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I just bought the same RV. 1989 36 foot Land yacht. Same exact problem. Did you ever figure it out?? The motorhome is still in the seller's driveway. Need to get it out and I am stumped.
Thanks in advance!
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02-23-2010, 05:19 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,455
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It is wired so you can use the house batteries to boost the chassis batteries or the other way around. The boost is temporary while you hold the switch the switch energizes the solenoids that act as electronic jumper cables. One of the solenoids acts as a battery isolator.
Another feature is to allow the alternator to charge the house batteries when the engine is running and there is a time delay.
It sounds like your chassis battery is dead and once you start by using the boost the alternator and house batteries are providing power.
You could have a totally dead chassis battery or one of the solenoids is bad.
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Garry
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02-23-2010, 05:53 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Cleveland
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 787
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Try 'dis.
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"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain
AIR 22749 WBCCI 2349 NOVA TAC TN-6
1989 345 LE Classic Motorhome
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