Wiring help - magnum inverter

[jami20]

I'm working on wiring my Magnum MMS 1012. My plan is to put in a sub panel to run all AC except the fridge and Air (don't have a microwave). But first, I'm trying to see if I should connect the inverter directly to the batteries or should I go through the bus bar where the batteries connect to it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jami

[KJRitchie]

I would connect directly to batteries.

Kelvin

[jami20]

Thanks. That's what I was thinking but wasn't sure. I was worried that it may somehow draw them down quicker since it would bypass the "store" mode.

Now I'm trying to determine what everything is wired to in the AC panel.
The panel shows a label saying
Cir1 20A A/C
Cir2 20A converter-desk
Bedroom receptacles
Cir3 20A Dedicated Rear
Cir4 20A Dinette-Bath-Galley
Refer-Ext.-Loung recep

However, that didn't look right. So I tested as best I can and found the following:
Cir1 30A -receptacle for fridge
-thermostat for air cond
-front and rear fantastic fans
-all receptacles

Cir2 20A -Air conditioner

Cir3 20A -3 (of 4) of the rear receptacles
-fantastic fan thermostat
-air conditioner thermostat
-power to converter/Dc panel
-radio
-systems monitor
-fridge control panel

Cir4 20A -unknown, but it does have swore coming in to it

So, I don't know what's going on with the wiring of this thing. It appears I need to leave circuit 2 as is, then wire circuit 1 so that only the fridge receptacle remains. Ill also leave circuit 4 as it is since I don't know where it goes yet.

Then I will take everything else and wire it to a new sub panel connected to the inverter. At least I hope that's correct.

[jami20]

Swore=some wire

[KJRitchie]

The first circuit, 30amp, is the current converter's breaker. If it breaks all power to the other 120v breakers is cut off.

Some of the items above, thermostats, fantastic fans, monitor panel, fridge panel are DC only and are fused on the DC panel.

I haven't installed my MMS1012 but I've purchased the Progressive Dynamic PD5500 dual AC distribution panel and the PD6000 DC panel. I plan to connect my shore power to one side, Side A, and connect the A/C, water heater, fridge 120v, microwave and Magnum inverter/charger to individual breakers. That means I need to run a new fridge 120v cable from the fridge since on my its part of the Galley circuit. That leaves the two remaining circuit which are wall outlets to side B. When on Shore power all the circuits will be active, when not on shore the inverter can supply power to the wall jacks.

The Magnum instructions shows a drawing with split panels.

Kelvin

[jami20]

I like the thought of those PD panels. That seems like it would give a nice streamlined look.

I'm a big novice at all this, but I had guessed that the controllers and fans were connected to the DC panel and going off because of the power being cut to the DC panel. I'm glad to hear that I was correct.

And it's good to know about the first circuit being the current converters breaker. I've got a lot of learning to do. And while I probably should hire someone to come do everything, it's great to learn everything so that I better understand how to fix problems later - I hope.

[jami20]

Okay,

Your earlier post about the first circuit got me digging more. Now I see that at the bottom of the sticker that was placed on my panel it says 30A Main. It looks like this sticker is just from a sheet of mailing labels and the 30A Main was meant to be at the top but mine was cut off when printed, nice.

So, That means everything I had posted earlier should be changed. Instead of what I had originally written it should be like this.

Cir1 30A - Main

Cir2 20A -Air conditioner

Cir3 20A -3 (of 4) of the rear receptacles
-power to converter/Dc panel (which controls all the DC powered items)

Cir4 20A -unknown, but it does have a wire coming in to it

Cir5 20A - (unlisted previously) Unknown, this has two white wires connected to it and a test button on it.

I guess I'm getting closer to knowing less

[jami20]

And now I've just found out that what I called the fifth circuit (airstream calls the 4th) does indeed control all the receptacles that airstream had listed.

Now to try to discover exactly what "Dedicated Rear" means for the other circuit.

[jami20]

Okay, I'm thinking that I should basically discard everything I wrote in my first couple of posts of this thread as it's getting pretty complicated going back and forth to what I wrote and what Airstream has listed. So, for sanity's sake I'm just going with what Airstream has listed from here on out.

Basically, everything they have listed is correct. I was thrown off by the non-listing of the 30A being the main line coming in. Thank you so much for bringing that simple thing up KJ.

And if you have any idea what Dedicated Rear means please let me know. That's the only thing I haven't figured out now.

[KJRitchie]

I'm having an experienced installer do my inverter/converter installation. I've got the basic parts and he's supplying the cables, fuses, disconnect switches etc.

Kelvin

[Zil]

Originally Posted by jami20

I'm working on wiring my Magnum MMS 1012. My plan is to put in a sub panel to run all AC except the fridge and Air (don't have a microwave). But first, I'm trying to see if I should connect the inverter directly to the batteries or should I go through the bus bar where the batteries connect to it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jami

Depending on the existing wiring. It would be good to wire through the buss bar as the Inverter would have a drain on the batteries while in storage mode.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Zil

Depending on the existing wiring. It would be good to wire through the buss bar as the Inverter would have a drain on the batteries while in storage mode.

First, any Magnum inverter/charger should have dedicated cables of sufficient size DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERIES and NOT thru any bus bars. In addition, there should be an appropriately sized class T fuse in the positive inverter cable that is rated to the size of the cable being used. This information is contained in the Magnum installation manual........READ IT TWICE!!!!! In addition, I always place a 300 amp marine battery disconnect switch between the class T fuse and inverter positive terminal as a means of easily isolating or disconnecting the inverter from the battery.

To the OP, if you are not completely comfortable with AC and DC wiring, an inverter installation is not the place to learn, as you are dealing with very large potential amperage draws that could have disastrous consequences.

I would find a qualified and experienced installer, perhaps from the marine industry who is ABYC certified and has done inverter installations before.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters***Victron Energy Components
541-490-6357

[TheCabin]

Lew,

Do you also add another disconnect switch between battery and DC panel?

[lewster]

Originally Posted by TheCabin

Lew,

Do you also add another disconnect switch between battery and DC panel?

Not a disconnect pre se, but a manual re-set marine circuit breaker like this:https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...=Surface_Mount.

They should be sized according the the cable going from the batteries to the bis bar. This adds the required circuit protection and gives you the switching option as well.

[TheCabin]

Thank you.

[jami20]

Thanks everyone for all the input. I read the manual two (or three) times yesterday. And today I've been working on it all day and have everything in good order, almost. The only thing I can't figure out is how to get my ME-BMK to talk to my ME-ARC50 remote. The sense module keeps flashing red.

The troubleshooting guide says that this means my telephone cable isn't connected correctly. But I've gone through multiple times connecting and reconnecting with no luck. I'm using the cables sent with the unit. Tomorrow I'm going to buy a new cord and see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't then I'm not sure what the problem is.

Now I've just got to mount the solar panels and connect them to the solar controller and the wires I've ran to the batteries.

[jami20]

Hmm, I just tried two other telephone cables I had in the house. The light is still blinking red.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by jami20

Hmm, I just tried two other telephone cables I had in the house. The light is still blinking red.

You can't use a standard phone cable as Magnum uses 4 conductor 'data' cables that 'look' like phone cables but have one end reversed.

When you line up the 2 RJ-11 plugs facing each other with the little disconnect clips oriented the same way, the wire colors should line up.

Also make sure that you have the ME-BMK plugged into the correct port of the inverter's plug stack. Double check your wiring of the shunt twisted pair to be certain that they are polarity correct (you have to use the entire length of the orange/blue twisted cable as supplied), as you should do at the BMK's black interconnect box.

If you still have issues, get with Magnum tech support to troubleshoot your installation.

[jami20]

Thanks Lew. I was not aware of the cables, that good to know. I'll double check my wiring tomorrow and plan on calling Magnum if needed.

[Zil]

Telly wires are RJ-11 and have 4 wire contacts. These data cables are RJ-12 and have six contacts. I have a hard time finding them even on-line.