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Old 02-25-2012, 06:09 PM   #15
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cat5/6--wireless seems to be the thing for voice and data, these days. What else might that wire be used for?.
Sat controls.

Don't know about you, but I wired for things I knew we would never use, just in case we wanted to sell - which we did a year or so later....

Possible wiring additions:
- sat
- solar
- generator
- microwave (maybe relocation)
- speakers/wire
- video
- short wave (Ham?)
- relocation/addition of outlets, bot 120 and 12 volt.
- security systems
- temp monitoring in select locations
- wifi router (land connection from outside)
- cell boster with exterior ant. For locations with weak signal
- cb ant. (ESP. If you are part of WBCCI - they love CB's)
- additions of special lighting
- EMS (electrical management system - they've come down in price from what they use to be...
- mods or additions to marker lights
- electrical equalizer/stabilizer jacks
- catalytic heater - the kind that exhausts out doors and require 12 volt to run the fan and thermostat.
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:58 PM   #16
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wow, can't believe its been 5 years...and yet, I'm still not close to finished. Long story...project became a "full monty." But I'm at the point now where the interior is completely gutted, (it was only partially open when I started the thread), and now its time to start putting things back together.
So: What has changed in 5 years? what else should I add for wires?
So far, I've added a couple of 110 circuits for convenience, but also added one for a future convection/micro instead of the standard gas range/oven combo. I may or may not go with the cook top/micro, but there's a wire there if I choose to.
I discovered that there was pre-wiring for an additional 12v outlet that was never installed. So I'll add an outlet there.
Other things I've come up with:
-fridge fan wiring. never had a big issue with cooling, but it would be handy to run wire from behind the fridge to a convenient location for a switch.
-12v for a future water heater: I'm using the original gas-only water heater, which was working at the start of the project, but will eventually fail. I'm assuming that new units have to have 12v for a completely unnecessary but unavoidable electric brain.
-Cooktop/oven: on the same tack, what about the cooktop/oven? do modern one's require some form of electricity? 12v or 110ac? The original was all gas, and used a pilot light, but I wonder if modern one's use 12v and generate a spark to light the burners?
-Trimetric battery monitor: The wiring all terminates at the back corner of the unit, and the battery is located there as well. I believe the trimetric needs to be installed near there, but the control panel for the camper is in the front endcap; a remote trimetric monitor could be installed up front, but it needs phone wire to link to the unit near the battery.
-RG6 for tv; in the works.
-wifi ranger mount on the existing batwing antenna: there is an unused bulkhead inlet for the original twin-lead antenna cable that I'm going to use to run the cat-6 cable.
-step light: I think I've seen that newer models have some sort of small LED light fixture tucked up behind the entry steps.

What am I missing?
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:35 PM   #17
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Wire for future solar?

120vac wire for future combined propane/electric water heater( in addition to your 12vdc).

Cable for audio from tv to stereo.

Possibly an inverter outlet or two for future inverter??

Wire for dometic ac thermostat control. It's phone wire but one end has to get cut off and reversed.

Quick thoughts.
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:59 AM   #18
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Wire for future solar?
yeah, I forgot to mention that. its on the list, even though I'll probably never use it
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120vac wire for future combined propane/electric water heater( in addition to your 12vdc).
well, the convection/micro is right above the hwh; I don't like the idea of an ac water heater, but if I should change my mind, there is that circuit right there.
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Cable for audio from tv to stereo.
ooh, good one. What kind of cable?
Quote:
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Possibly an inverter outlet or two for future inverter??
hadn't considered that, really. The original wiring scheme has everything on a single circuit, so it would be hard to select just one or some. That would all be done at the panel, though, so it should be accessible, should the need arise.
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Wire for dometic ac thermostat control. It's phone wire but one end has to get cut off and reversed.
Quick thoughts.
The factory installed 4 wires from the a/c to the fridge cabinet for this purpose; not sure if they could be re-purposed...surely, they were meant for a early 70's unit, so this may or may not be appropriate for modern use.
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:51 PM   #19
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On a related note, I was looking at power inlets today. The original config had the power cord hard-wired into the 110v panel. The cord entered through a hole in the bumper compartment, up through a hole in the floor, and was attached with big screw-clamps to the inner skin and wound its way around to the closet.
On the re-do, I'm going to use an inlet...was originally planning on a Furion or Marinco, but I think I've been sold on the smartplug at this point. Anyway, they're all the same size on the outside...from looking at a drawing of the Marinco inlet, it sticks in pretty far...looks like it will actually protrude in past the inner skin. (a schematic shows ~2"). I was thinking of just running a length of #10 romex from the inlet over to the panel, running the cable inside the wall cavity, but maybe that won't work if the tail of the inlet is sticking into the camper. Its not a problem--it will be inside the lav cabinet, so out of site, but I'm thinking maybe romex type isn't the appropriate choice for a wire that is not inside a wall cavity?
If not, what would be appropriate? a cut length of 30-amp power cord? (very heavily insulated) or maybe some sort of armored cable?
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:05 PM   #20
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Consider marine grade stranded cable in appropriate gauge for 30 amps
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Old 07-18-2017, 06:05 PM   #21
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I probably have some number 10 left over from when I put in my 30 amp pedestal at the house....but shouldn't that be jacketed in some way? also wondering if the back-end of an inlet should be enclosed in a box, somehow.
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