Which gauge wire to use.

[jonplayers]

I am gathering materials to completely rewire the 12 volt system on my 31 foot T-lux.

I am wondering which wire to use for the new LED lighting. Automotive? Primary 12 gauge? I need about 150-200 feet.

I am also wondering about an online affordable source.

As well as splicing connectors.



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417...1-a-94006.html

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by jonplayers

I am gathering materials to completely rewire the 12 volt system on my 31 foot T-lux.

I am wondering which wire to use for the new LED lighting. Automotive? Primary 12 gauge? I need about 150-200 feet.

I am also wondering about an online affordable source.

As well as splicing connectors.



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417...1-a-94006.html

LED lights draw a small amount of current.

You can use 12 to 14 gauge wire.

Best place to buy wire cheaply, is stores like Home Depot.

Don't go too cheap, or you will get a wire that has poor insulation, that hardens with age.

Andy

[Minno]

I bought most of my 12 volt wiring and connectors here: Electrical and Automotive Wire and Cable - WiringProducts

Primary automotive wire is fine.

12 gauge will let you use 20 amp fuses. 14 gauge will let you use 15 amp fuses. 10 gauge is rated for 30 amps. I used 14 gauge for most of my 12 volt wiring. I also ran a different color wire for each circuit, which helps for troubleshooting and adding additional lights and stuff later. Although, lots of people just use the same color wire for everything. Almost all of our lights are LED. I also like to go for overkill, so I bumped up to 10 gauge for the water pump circuit.

Buy more than you think you need. Voice of experience talking...

Chris

[Zeppelinium]

Current carrying capacity of copper wire

Gauge Ohms/1000' Current
12 1.5 25
14 2.5 20
16 4 18
18 6 14

You shouldn't ever have an LED circuit that uses more than 3 amps (that's 10-15 lights, depending on the devices you select). You could actually use #18 wire, but many people would think #18 just feels too wimpy and would use #16. You definitely don't have to use common household #14 or #12 UF wire. And you shouldn't--it's miserable to pull and miserable to insert into your fixture.

You can buy 500' spools of #14 or #16 at you local big box store for about $50. Make sure you get two colors so you can keep track of the positive and negative wires. Sounds like you only need two 100' spools.

Zep

[crabbey1]

I highly recommend the use of Marine Wire. I used it to rewire my entire trailer, on the recommendations of some forum members, and could not be happier. After a lot of research to keep costs down, I came across this place: Tinned Marine Wire. They have the best prices I could find plus they can ship in all sorts of custom lengths and quantities. They even make custom cables for batteries with connectors and everything. I cannot say enough good thing about my experience.

Another great place that I liked was Waytek. They have great products and a much better website but their prices weren't as good.

As far as cable sizing, I would refer you to this chart: Wire Gauge Sizing. I used 12 gauge for my entire trailer and it is working great. You may have a larger trailer though with larger cable runs and may need to use some 10 gauge. You will have to do the math. Just figure out how long the circuit will be from the fuse panel and back and check the chart...

As far as connectors, I used regular 12 gauge connectors with heat shrink around each connection. Depending on it's location, you may want to use waterproof connectors.

Good luck!!!

[Silverflames]

My 69 came copper stranded 10 gage through the trailer. Could be a overkill, but no problems in 40 years.

[jonplayers]

Thank you good sirs! I just ordered from that web site. Should be here for Christmas!

I ordered 14 gauge for the lighting/fans, and 12 gauge for the water pump/fridge. I also ordered splice clips as well as nylon grommets

.Quick Splices - WiringProducts


I think i just need wire from the battery to the converter now.

[Farmer Dan]

Even though they are quick and easy I have had bad luck with that type of quick splice from 3M. They will seem to work on wires that aren't the same size but after some jiggling around in transit they have dealt us fits. They are exposed to the air and corrode or work loose too easily when used on our farm equipment and semis, etc. We have banned their use!
Dan

[cwf]

If inaccessible, solder only.

If wires shake, solder only, unless you can title key immobilize the wires, then if wet area, solder or use Marine grade connectors and wrap well with high quality 3M brand electrical tape.

[Silverflames]

Originally Posted by cwf

If inaccessible, solder only.

If wires shake, solder only, unless you can title key immobilize the wires, then if wet area, solder or use Marine grade connectors and wrap well with high quality 3M brand electrical tape.

So soldering is better than wire nuts and electrical tape. I head that soldering builds up resistance in the line, thus causing the line to heat up? Or does that not really ally in 12 vlt systems?

[panheaddale]

If you can't get easy access to your connections DO NOT use wire nuts or even crimp splices you will have problems somewhere down the road. I would soldier all your connections and use heat shrink instead of tape. Heat shrink just looks so much more professional than electric tape.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by panheaddale

If you can't get easy access to your connections DO NOT use wire nuts or even crimp splices you will have problems somewhere down the road. I would soldier all your connections and use heat shrink instead of tape. Heat shrink just looks so much more professional than electric tape.

Struck me as odd that the '74 Sov uses mostly wire nuts in the lighting and other items. Not only can they fall apart as things age, the fact that the actual connection is open to the air and corrodes with time.

Disappointing, to say the least.

[crabbey1]

I wouldn't solder. With all the bumps of the road, you have a good chance for those connections to crack... Just use regular connectors and make sure they are sold when installing them...

[panheaddale]

Originally Posted by crabbey1

I wouldn't solder. With all the bumps of the road, you have a good chance for those connections to crack... Just use regular connectors and make sure they are sold when installing them...

I know it is a little more work and it does take some skill to do a proper soldier joint but it will not crack from vibration unlike a joint that is put together with crimp connectors or wire nuts can. Make sure to heat shrink the joints so moisture doesn't corrode the joint and so it doesn't make contact with the metal and cause a short.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by panheaddale

I know it is a little more work and it does take some skill to do a proper soldier joint but it will not crack from vibration unlike a joint that is put together with crimp connectors or wire nuts can. Make sure to heat shrink the joints so moisture doesn't corrode the joint and so it doesn't make contact with the metal and cause a short.

I was taught that a "proper" solder joint requires heating the twisted-together wires and letting the solder melt into them, not heating the solder and letting it drip onto cold wires.

[Jimbcole]

Originally Posted by jonplayers

Thank you good sirs! I just ordered from that web site. Should be here for Christmas!

I ordered 14 gauge for the lighting/fans, and 12 gauge for the water pump/fridge. I also ordered splice clips as well as nylon grommets

.Quick Splices - WiringProducts

I think i just need wire from the battery to the converter now.

Do any of these suggestions, but do not use the quick splices, suitcase connectors, or what ever they are calling them now! I can't believe they still make them. I cannot begin to tell you, the number of times, my hours long diagnostic process ended with me cutting one of these types of connectors out of a circuit and then fixing it correctly. Not only do they usually loose contact to the circuit you are adding, but on a braided wire, they some times cut strands of the circuit you tap in to, and cause resistance problems. Save your self! Don't use those connectors. Hope I was clear.

[AtomicNo13]

Solder and shrink wrap!

Learning to solder is a quickly learned art that will follow you for a lifetime. Soldering will almost never fail. A proper joint wont crack oxidize or othertwise.
Save yourself any and all misery.
You can find good soldering equipment at any flea market or yard sale.

Here is all the advice you'll need to know.... if it looks good it is good!
Best luck

[panheaddale]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

I was taught that a "proper" solder joint requires heating the twisted-together wires and letting the solder melt into them, not heating the solder and letting it drip onto cold wires.

Well said.This is just like copper plumbing most people when learning try to rush the soldier. I personally don't twist my wires together just because it gives you a flatter joint in case you have a tight hole you have to go thru. Different people are taught different ways . A twisted joint probably is less likely to have any issues but like Atomic said if it looks good it is good.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by panheaddale

Well said.This is just like copper plumbing most people when learning try to rush the soldier. I personally don't twist my wires together just because it gives you a flatter joint in case you have a tight hole you have to go thru. Different people are taught different ways . A twisted joint probably is less likely to have any issues but like Atomic said if it looks good it is good.

Western Union splices are very flat:

[Joe Palmieri]

WWW.genuinedealz.com