hi- in a '72 international, which ceiling panels need to be pulled off to repair the wiring connection to the front interior light, front reading lights, and over-door light? All other lights work. So does the fan, which is in the front interior light. Also, I have no key for water intake port- seems to be different from other hatches. Any ideas? Also, can the windows be easily removed to facilitate the replacement of weatherstripping? Just got rid of the hornets nests yesterday, makes working on it a little easier... thanks- tim
The main wiring loom runs down the left side (facing the rear of the trailer) of the center of the ceiling. The center sheet is designed/installed to be removable. You would need to pull all lights and vent screens, the interior shroud form the AC and the TV antenna handle. Drill out the rivets in the center of the sheet, and bow the front edge down, reversing the bow that it has now. you will be able to work it out of the edge slots and access the wire.
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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I'm just wondering if one of these items (front vent fan, kitchen fan) is interrupting the circuit but not having a wiring diagram, I'm not sure how the circuit goes.
There sure seem to be a lot of ground issues on the forum. IIRC, the DC ground for those lights in my '73 are the white wires going to the light. All of the lights in mine have "quick disconnect" connectors on them.
A quick test would be to disconnect the positive and negative leads and attach a mulit-meter to read the voltage. If no voltage, then test the ground wire by attaching the meter to the white wire and the other side of the meter to the aluminum frame/skin of the TT. If no reading there, then that section of the ground wire is bad in some way.
I had this problem in my rear ceiling light. Turned out to be the "quick disconnect" on the ground wire was frayed and needed to be replaced.
Good luck with it.
Jim
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To lodge all power in one party and to leave it there is to insure bad government. -- Mark Twain
I removed the switches and found the porchlight switch working fine (the light fixture is corroded, power is okay). The switch next to it is a three-way that goes to the galley light. I took it apart, cleaned it, and epoxied the contacts to the plastic body and it should work now. I haven't removed the light switch to the scare light, but I'll bet that'll answer my questions.
Guess I'll look around a bit more before I ask questions.
I felt a bit like Ensign Duncel posting that last one, but I had to throw it out there. I just spent some time tracing the wiring that we are all referencing here. Here’s what I found out.
The lights over the couch/Goucho, the Scare light, the porch light, the exhaust fan, the ceiling lights in the front of the TT and the “cigarette lighter” over the credenza all feed from a bundle of wires just curbside of the exhaust fan in the main wiring bundle in the ceiling underneath the center panel. In my ‘73, the positive leads are brown, negative is white. If any one of these devices are not working properly, it is possible that a wire has worked its way loose from the “bundle” (other options exist, as Ron has discovered, so keep reading). This “bundle” inputs six wires on one side and three on the other. I haven’t cut the electrical tape to inspect this bundle, as all of mine are working. Logically, these wires are twisted together in a massive “connection” inside the bundle. Ergo, if one device isn’t working, it’s worked itself loose from the bundle and needs to be reattached.
The three switches to the right of the door as you enter are wired thus:
1) The switch for the “scare” light has only a positive feed to the switch. Ground is obtained thru the body/shell of the trailer.
2) The porch light has both positive and negative leads (go figure!)
3) The third switch is more complicated. It turns on various interior lights (of which I’ve not discovered all). One of those lights is indeed the light over the sink. It appears to turn on others in the bedroom area of the trailer, I just haven’t had time to trace them all out, yet.
I hope this helps. I’ll be attaching this to my main thread here for future reference. Let me know if I need to trace other stuff.
Take care, Jim
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To lodge all power in one party and to leave it there is to insure bad government. -- Mark Twain
hi jim and susan,ron, and newkid- and thanks for the concise replies! VERY helpful to me to know which panel to take down, will in fact do just that. I have to also caulk the shroud for the porch light before I do this, as it leaks like a sieve, with much corrosion in there. Jim and susan, the places you mention are the exact ones that are dead in my coach- Is this kind of a separate loop in the wiring system? Anyway, thanks! I also finally found a DECO 1 key, but it did NOT work in my '72 water fill door- so my search for that continues. If anyone has a '72 OL with that key, please let me know and maybe I can copy yours. happy streaming- tim
The water door lock on our '72 has a key with the "THE ILLINOIS LOCK CO. U.S.A." on it. It has matching cuts on two sides, about 3/4" long and has a long bar going straight down the middle. I see you're from Estes Park. We're going to be in Garden of the Gods for the VAC Rally in a week or so. Let me know and I can bring along our key. I'm sure if you have it copied there's a good chance it will work for you. These keys were pretty interchangeable.
Also, if you reach in under the galley and undo the hose clamp holding the water tank inlet pipe to the water fill you can fill your tank up and see if it works!
tphan, a couple of things. On my '73, there is only one screw holding on the porch light. Make sure it works first, then "caulk" using Vulkem or ParrBond on the screw only. The shroud removes easily so that you can clean the corrosion. Just so you know, my door leaks in the same area. But after removing the inner skins, I can see that it is the door seal as well as the porch light leaking.
IF, only IF, ALL of the areas I mentioned in that bundle are not working, it's probably the main feed from the Univolt (IF you are still using a Univolt or similar inverter that is providing the feed for these lights). In other words, it could be a blown fuse at the inverter; it may not be a bad wire.
I've got to go to bed. Post more if you need more information.
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To lodge all power in one party and to leave it there is to insure bad government. -- Mark Twain
hi and thanks! dpeakmd, I left you a private message. jim and susan, I'll go rattle around all the fuses to make sure that isn't the problem, but I can see that they aren't blown. Would be nice if it were that easy. regards the porch light, I thought I'd caulk all the way around it once I get it working, to prevent rain from just running through the whole thing. But this may not be possible as the 3 screws are VERY rusty and stuck. Could drill them out I guess. Do you know too if it's easy to put in a new circuit and switch to be able to turn on all the clearance lights , not hooked up to the tow vehicle? Just thought it might be neat to be able to do that at night, like when someone is trying to find us in a big campground. thanks- tim
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