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Old 01-22-2017, 09:18 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by USAtraveler View Post
VTSmitty,
FYI, you can buy that same switch at Harbor Freight for half the price of Amazon. Only drawback is you have to install it directly onto a battery post.
Like Lewster, I use a marine switch, this one by Hella.

Buy it at Westmarine.
Harbor Freight is cheaper, but the shipping costs erase the benefit. The Hella switch is a good one, we use that for our Solar system disconnect and it has held up well.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:00 AM   #16
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I would rather have a switch to disconnect the batteries versus the welding connectors (anderson connectors). I use the anderson connectors for a winch/Jumpstart port on all of my 4x4`s, they are straight forward and easy to use......
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:58 AM   #17
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I may have misunderstood the application recommended by the OP.

I recommended the Anderson connectors thinking that the OP was physically disconnecting his battery with the purpose being removal of the battery.

That's what I do every fall when I put the Airstream away for the winter.

Otherwise, if you only want to electrically disconnect the battery, a switch is obviously easier.
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:03 AM   #18
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That's what I want: complete disconnection of the battery for removal. Welding connectors seems nice and compact for doing so.
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Old 01-22-2017, 01:14 PM   #19
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That's what I want: complete disconnection of the battery for removal. Welding connectors seems nice and compact for doing so.
Anderson connectors will do the job you are looking for. For what it's worth I soldered the wires into the connectors on all of my trucks as I didn't have a crimper stout enough to crimp them.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
I'm always amazed at some 'work arounds' when a clean, permanent solution already exists for a total battery disconnect. The simple addition of a Blue Sea Systems 'M-Series' marine disconnect switch to either the positive or negative battery cable will give you a simple, effective way to remove all loads from your batteries with an easy 1/4 turn of the switch.

Permanent, water proof and solid...... rated up to 300 amps continuous.....but I guess some MUST find their own path regardless......
Lew,
I always zero in when you reply to questions on the forum. I enjoyed listening to your advice at the Vintage Trailer Academy in NM. I wish those were still happening! I learned SO much!
I know it probably depends on which trailer but I was wondering if you could point me to a photo of the installation of the Blue Sea disconnect switch. Is normally installed inside the trailer? On the tongue?
Thanks for you help.
Laura
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:27 AM   #21
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Lew,
I always zero in when you reply to questions on the forum. I enjoyed listening to your advice at the Vintage Trailer Academy in NM. I wish those were still happening! I learned SO much!
I know it probably depends on which trailer but I was wondering if you could point me to a photo of the installation of the Blue Sea disconnect switch. Is normally installed inside the trailer? On the tongue?
Thanks for you help.
Laura
Stay tuned. I'll look thru the photos and post one for you.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:36 AM   #22
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Welding Connectors as Battery Disconnect?

I installed mine on the exterior of my battery box....

12v supply to trailer is 1
Solar mppt charging is 2

I can set:

1
1+2
2
All off
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:52 PM   #23
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Installed a disconnect on my 2017 30' international this evening.... upgraded the parallel cables while I was at it....

Problem solved.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:10 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1973Argosy View Post
I would rather have a switch to disconnect the batteries versus the welding connectors (anderson connectors). I use the anderson connectors for a winch/Jumpstart port on all of my 4x4`s, they are straight forward and easy to use......
Good idea. What do you use your front hitch for?
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:01 PM   #25
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Hi

Keep in mind: Anderson (like everybody else) rates a connector for a temperature rise. The plastic they use for the housing melts at some magic rated temperature. Subtract the temperature rise from the rated max melt temperature and you get the operating temperature range.

Why does this nonsense matter? Well, your battery box may never get anywhere near their upper operating temperature. If they rate the rise at 10F, and the max temperature at 210F that's not super crazy. If you are willing to accept a rise of 40F, the max operation would be 180F rather than 200. What just happened is you just about doubled the current rating of the connector. Your 250A connector became a 500A connector. Your 250A application now can use a 125A connector. If your total loads or charge never goes past 100A, you can use a 50A connector.

Note that this is fairly specific to certain classes of connectors. The same general idea applies to some other components. You would have to dig into the details on them. What isn't mentioned above is that the voltage drop on the 125A connector is likely 2X the drop on the higher rated connector. Also un-mentioned is the fact that if you are doing "hot" connects and disconnects, the lower rated connector will not last as long.

Bottom line: You don't have to go with a super over rated (current wise) connector.

Bob
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:02 AM   #26
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Good idea. What do you use your front hitch for?
Winch, cargo carrier, bike rack, and have put a few trailers into some really tight spots. TV is a suv so when going boondocking the genrator and cooler ride up front on the cargo carrier. When going to a fhu site we use the bike carrier. My Anderson plugs were run to power the winch that is mounted on a 2" hitch winch cradle that can be moved front to rear or to a different vehicle. I now have two suvs with Anderson plugs mounted front and rear and both have front and rear hitches. I also have jumper cables with Anderson plugs mounted on one end in both suvs. I can jump start other vehicles or be jump started without raising my hood.
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:17 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 1973Argosy View Post
Winch, cargo carrier, bike rack, and have put a few trailers into some really tight spots. TV is a suv so when going boondocking the genrator and cooler ride up front on the cargo carrier. When going to a fhu site we use the bike carrier. My Anderson plugs were run to power the winch that is mounted on a 2" hitch winch cradle that can be moved front to rear or to a different vehicle. I now have two suvs with Anderson plugs mounted front and rear and both have front and rear hitches. I also have jumper cables with Anderson plugs mounted on one end in both suvs. I can jump start other vehicles or be jump started without raising my hood.
I tried a cargo carrier on mine but it was too low and I hated it, maybe I'll try making one. My primary use of my front hitch is for my home made folding top side creeper.
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Old 06-25-2017, 07:16 AM   #28
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Anderson connectors will do the job you are looking for. For what it's worth I soldered the wires into the connectors on all of my trucks as I didn't have a crimper stout enough to crimp them.
A simple trick I've used when caught "out in the field" needing to crimp large cables without the correct tools.... is to use the bar-clamp from a tubing-flaring-tool. This is the split-bar with various sized holes for holding the tubing while one uses the conical-flare to spread the tubing.
Anyway, the clamp can close on the cable-and-terminal and then, using strong pliers, the wingnut can close the bar-clamp on the terminal thereby crimping it onto the cable. An even better crimp can be made if the bar-clamp is squeezed in a vise. Voila!

(In desperate circumstances, even a hammer can close the bar-clamp onto the terminal and cable.)
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