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Old 09-28-2015, 06:07 AM   #15
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1977 31' Sovereign
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1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
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There is a You tube video that shows that the three light testers are not infallible for detecting hot skins. You need to use one of the Non-contact pencil type voltage detectors as well. Klien, Milwaukee, and Eline makes good ones for less than $20. I own 2 Milwaukee's. One for me and one for the club. The prime products tester (above) is simply a 3 light tester mounted in the trailer. You need to park and plug in before you know the site is unsuitable. I keep my testers in the side pocket of my truck to test before I back in. It eliminates the need to reback in the trailer and truck.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:46 PM   #16
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good suggestion.. plug before play..

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi View Post
There is a You tube video that shows that the three light testers are not infallible for detecting hot skins. You need to use one of the Non-contact pencil type voltage detectors as well. Klien, Milwaukee, and Eline makes good ones for less than $20. I own 2 Milwaukee's. One for me and one for the club. The prime products tester (above) is simply a 3 light tester mounted in the trailer. You need to park and plug in before you know the site is unsuitable. I keep my testers in the side pocket of my truck to test before I back in. It eliminates the need to reback in the trailer and truck.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:43 PM   #17
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I've equipped both of my trailers with a Progressive Industries set up that will NOT connect my trailer to ANY pedestal if there's any kind of problem with the incoming current. If there is a problem, it gives me a code and tells me what's wrong....reversed polarity, ground, neutral issue, etc. It also gives me the voltage that's coming into my trailer. Since I have a 50amp service it gives me the voltage on EACH of the two legs. You would (maybe) be surprised how many campgrounds are feeding an underplot (like 108V) to your trailer. This can be an issue with the A/C. The PI devices also have a surge protector as part of their set up. They cost a bit of $, but well worth it for the peace of mind, IMHO.
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi View Post
There is a You tube video that shows that the three light testers are not infallible for detecting hot skins. You need to use one of the Non-contact pencil type voltage detectors as well. Klien, Milwaukee, and Eline makes good ones for less than $20. I own 2 Milwaukee's. One for me and one for the club. The prime products tester (above) is simply a 3 light tester mounted in the trailer. You need to park and plug in before you know the site is unsuitable. I keep my testers in the side pocket of my truck to test before I back in. It eliminates the need to reback in the trailer and truck.
X2^ check the pedestal prior to plugging the coach in! It's better to detect the problem without touching a tingly shell!
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:47 AM   #19
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1977 31' Sovereign
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I use the three light tester with a 30 amp adapter before I back in. The non-contact tester assures me that the trailer skin is properly grounded. The problem can be in the trailer or appliances as well as the pedestal. It is important to keep one metal stabilizer (or jack stand) in contact with the ground, just to be safe. The fancy surge protectors are nice but $.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:50 AM   #20
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2007 30' Classic S/O
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This is the video to watch.



I also have a surge protector and I chose to hard wire it in the trailer. Also have the non contact tester, monitor AC and DC inside the AS and carry a multi meter.

Another issue I'll put out is check the post receptacle when you plug in, does the plug have some bite or flop around? If it flops, suspicious that the receptacle is cooked and has lost tension on your plug blades to make a good connection and might cause low voltage and heat at plug damaging plug. I carry a spare plug.
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:30 AM   #21
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Simply having a stabilizer or post down offers zero ground!
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:22 PM   #22
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Following.

I'm picking up a 2013 Flying Cloud 19 next week and then going on a maiden voyage to the Oregon State Parks, all with Electric Hookups. I want to definitely get one of these tower mount units. I'll go with the Progressive, the Technology Research one sounds like the reliability and Customer Service isn't as good.

Do I need the 30 amp or 50 amp for my Flying Cloud? I can't tell from the spec sheet, which just says "110V/12V Power Center w/55 amp converter."
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:37 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
Following.

I'm picking up a 2013 Flying Cloud 19 next week and then going on a maiden voyage to the Oregon State Parks, all with Electric Hookups. I want to definitely get one of these tower mount units. I'll go with the Progressive, the Technology Research one sounds like the reliability and Customer Service isn't as good.

Do I need the 30 amp or 50 amp for my Flying Cloud? I can't tell from the spec sheet, which just says "110V/12V Power Center w/55 amp converter."
Your 19 foot FC only has one AC unit so it will be set up for 30 amp service. All you need is a 30 amp surge protector. You should have a set of adapters (50 to 30 amp, and 15 to 30 amp) so you can plug in under all circumstances you are likely to run into.
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