I have a 2012 23' International with the mid-size refrigerator that does not vent through the roof. From the factory, I had the same loud fan mounted just behind the upper vent door and controlled by the thermostat switch mounted on the right-most fin in the rear compartment.
I felt I had two problems to solve: 1) the loud fan was irritating at night when trying to sleep so the solution had to be queiter, and 2) I felt the force of the fan pushed too much air directly onto the back of the upper vent door and I suspect it just "bounced" back into the refrigerator compartment that it was trying to cool.
My refrigerator has very little clearance above the fins in the back compartment so I didn't think the Snyder solution would work well for me. My approach was to attach 3 small computer fans directly under the fins to blow air across them. I also replaced the factory fan with one the same size but quieter. And, since it was quieter, it pushed less air which in my case was desirable. I think the lower Cubic Feet/Minute (CFM) was a good thing here as it allows more air to pass through the vents as intended rather than just bouncing back into the hot compartment.
Parts list, mostly from Amazon:
- 3 SilenX EFX-08-15 Effizio Silent 80 mm case fans ($6.99 each)
- 1 Phobya premium 3-pin x 4 fan cable splitter ($11.73)
- 1 Coolink 120mm fan, SWiF2-1200 -- for inside fridge compartment ($14.95)
- 12 small binder clips from my desk drawer
- 1 additional 120mm fan to replace the factory supplied fan -- don't have the part number for this one but to get a replacement to fit in the same bracket it is important to measure the thickness in milimeters (mm) to be sure you get the right size. The diameter across the front is 120mm and the thickness might be 38mm ???
I tapped the 4 fan cable splitter into existing wiring and then used the supplied connectors to wire in the 3 80mm fans on the fins. The 4th connector was used for a very quiet fan that I installed in the interior of the refrigerator to move air around and prevent warm spots.
Regarding the binder clips. . . I removed the wire handles (save them) and drilled holes in the center of them that would allow me to use the screws that came with the fans. These were mounted in a way that let me slide them onto the fins. They are held there by friction and haven't come off yet even after towing 800 miles.
The saved wire handles were clipped with wire cutters and used to attach the interior fan to the wire shelving. The power wire for the interior fan was fed through the existing hole for the thermostat clip thingy that goes on the interior fins.
I didn't bother with an on/off swich. I'm just using the thermostat switch to control it -- the one that was supplied by Airstream and is mounted on the right-most fin in the rear compartment.
I've been very happy with the set-up. It's so much quieter now. I cannot hear it from the bed at night when I'm trying to sleep.
I also use a very basic indoor/outdoor thermometer to keep an eye on the interior refrigerator temperature. I got it at Walmart for less than $10. The remote goes inside the refrigerator and the display sits on the counter.
And of course. . . pictures!