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Old 12-24-2012, 09:23 PM   #15
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
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Originally Posted by TBRich View Post
The purpose of the fan is to act as an exhaust fan to pull air through the fins and out...but the original fan and location is very inefficient. We replaced ours with Snyder fan kit...a funnel affair with the fan at the base (yellow rectangle in pic #1) the brings the air in from the bottom and pushes it upward through the fins...the thermostat was originally connected to the fins (green circle in pics #2) but the tech installing it moved it to the pipe (blue circle in pic #2) for a better location for temps. We have since had to replace the fan again. It is still louder than I'd like it to be but it's much better. We typically turn it off at night, as in our area it runs quite a bit of the time.

If you want to add a switch to yours, you can easily do this inside the compartment.
Personally, I think that a heat-controlled on-off situation would be more effective; a thermostat with built-in switch. I seem t remember someone installing that set-up, but can't recall who posted it or where they posted it.

Also, the Snyder kit is, I feel, a brilliant way to promote cooler air from the bottom of the cabinet to blow over the fins, but if quiet enough fans were used, a pair of them mounted at, near, or in the roof exhaust would ensure that max cooling would occur in the hotter summer days.

In that situation, I think the thermostat solution (and super-quiet fans) would be even more desirable.

If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:35 PM   #16
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2006 19' Safari SE
Tucson , Arizona
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Well I think you are right, Aage...our rig has BOTH the automatic thermostat in the actual compartment AND the off/on switch inside...if the inside switch is "on" the fan will then go on and off via the thermostat control at the back of the unit. Like I said, our frig doesn't vent through the roof, so it has to blow the hot air a right angle out the curb-side vents...maybe that's why there is a double system...not sure of the rationale, really. I do like being able to turn it off completely from inside, though, when the hum is bothering my sleep. When I have to replace that fan again, I am gong to make a better effort to get an even quieter one...

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Old 12-24-2012, 10:25 PM   #17
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
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We have exactly the same trailer as you. Just get a little inline switch (the little plastic things with the little rotary switch) and cut the wire to the motor. Put the switch there (a 2 minute job), and turn it off most of the time. Except maybe when the temp indicator on the fridge is too high, and that would be on very warm days when the outside fridge compartment is in the sun.

When its warm out, prop open the upper and lower outside vent doors so plenty of air will move through the area. Close them if rain is forecast. We have been in our trailer for last two months and have not switched on the fan at all, just keep an eye on the fridge temp guage when it's hot out.

I have been told a full fridge and freezer will stabilize the temperature, so if things get empty, we have put a couple plastic jugs of water in there.

doug k
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:45 AM   #18
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Cat City , California
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If it comes with a switch from the factory on some models, one wonders that the instructions for use would be?

I see some mention of monitoring temperature of fridge. The inside temp? Mine has an LCD on the front which reads 42 to 45 depending on the setting. It doesn't seem related to the fan operation, but I could be wrong.

I wonder what the thermostat is reading? The temp of the fins themselves, or is the fin simply a mounting surface, and the thing is reading the air temp inside the cabinet?

I guess one thing I am picking up is that this fan is obviously not crucial, since it can be turned off on many models. I'll have to dig into what that thermostat IS, and what temperature it is working on and so on. Then, find a nice quiet fan and so on.

Good comments from everyone - much appreciated.
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:53 AM   #19
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Manasquan , New Jersey
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I have had two airstreams and after finally replacing the thermistor I chose to put in a switch and while doing that I wired in a large resistor in series with the switch (which reduces the rpm) and eliminates the noise. I picked up the resistor at Radio Shack. You may have to pick up a couple to see which one fits the bill. By the way while boondocking the switch helps because I do not want the fan running at all.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:39 AM   #20
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1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
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Originally Posted by mstephens View Post
Mine has an LCD on the front which reads 42 to 45 depending on the setting.
The ideal refrigerator temperature should range between 35F to 38F. You really don't want it over 40F if you don't want your food to spoil.

They are talking about the temp in the fridge going up from where it is set or not being able to cool enough.

The cooler it is in the compartment behind the fridge the more efficient the fridge will dissipate heat.

The hotter it is the fridge uses more energy to cool till it is using the maximum energy it can without being able to do enough cooling.
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:08 PM   #21
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mt. Prospect , Illinois
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My 2000 19'er has a fan behind the upper refrig housing door, but no interior switch. I do not recall the fan ever running. Maybe the thermo switch is bad, but i've never had a problem with the fridge running warm, regardless of the weather. If the fan noise bothers you, and you can't switch it off, then just disconnect it and see if the fridge performance suffers. I'd bet it's needed only when the ambient is very high, if at all.
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:33 PM   #22
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2012 23' International
Riverview , Florida
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And yet another fan solution. . .

I have a 2012 23' International with the mid-size refrigerator that does not vent through the roof. From the factory, I had the same loud fan mounted just behind the upper vent door and controlled by the thermostat switch mounted on the right-most fin in the rear compartment.

I felt I had two problems to solve: 1) the loud fan was irritating at night when trying to sleep so the solution had to be queiter, and 2) I felt the force of the fan pushed too much air directly onto the back of the upper vent door and I suspect it just "bounced" back into the refrigerator compartment that it was trying to cool.

My refrigerator has very little clearance above the fins in the back compartment so I didn't think the Snyder solution would work well for me. My approach was to attach 3 small computer fans directly under the fins to blow air across them. I also replaced the factory fan with one the same size but quieter. And, since it was quieter, it pushed less air which in my case was desirable. I think the lower Cubic Feet/Minute (CFM) was a good thing here as it allows more air to pass through the vents as intended rather than just bouncing back into the hot compartment.

Parts list, mostly from Amazon:
  • 3 SilenX EFX-08-15 Effizio Silent 80 mm case fans ($6.99 each)
  • 1 Phobya premium 3-pin x 4 fan cable splitter ($11.73)
  • 1 Coolink 120mm fan, SWiF2-1200 -- for inside fridge compartment ($14.95)
  • 12 small binder clips from my desk drawer
  • 1 additional 120mm fan to replace the factory supplied fan -- don't have the part number for this one but to get a replacement to fit in the same bracket it is important to measure the thickness in milimeters (mm) to be sure you get the right size. The diameter across the front is 120mm and the thickness might be 38mm ???
I tapped the 4 fan cable splitter into existing wiring and then used the supplied connectors to wire in the 3 80mm fans on the fins. The 4th connector was used for a very quiet fan that I installed in the interior of the refrigerator to move air around and prevent warm spots.

Regarding the binder clips. . . I removed the wire handles (save them) and drilled holes in the center of them that would allow me to use the screws that came with the fans. These were mounted in a way that let me slide them onto the fins. They are held there by friction and haven't come off yet even after towing 800 miles.

The saved wire handles were clipped with wire cutters and used to attach the interior fan to the wire shelving. The power wire for the interior fan was fed through the existing hole for the thermostat clip thingy that goes on the interior fins.

I didn't bother with an on/off swich. I'm just using the thermostat switch to control it -- the one that was supplied by Airstream and is mounted on the right-most fin in the rear compartment.

I've been very happy with the set-up. It's so much quieter now. I cannot hear it from the bed at night when I'm trying to sleep.

I also use a very basic indoor/outdoor thermometer to keep an eye on the interior refrigerator temperature. I got it at Walmart for less than $10. The remote goes inside the refrigerator and the display sits on the counter.

And of course. . . pictures!
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:59 PM   #23
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2015 25' Flying Cloud
Euless , Texas
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If the air passes the fins too fast, it will poorly absorb the heat from the fins.. Maybe to much there buddy.
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:03 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Beaerman View Post
If the air passes the fins too fast, it will poorly absorb the heat from the fins.. Maybe to much there buddy.
So do the air molecules push the heat back into the fins?

-Zombie Thread Troll

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