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Old 01-21-2015, 10:39 PM   #29
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Discount Marine and Boat Supplies - Inflatable Sales - Defender
Marine & Boat Supplies Since 1928 | Fisheries Supply
Englund Marine & Industrial Supply
Boat Parts, Sailing, Kayaks, Paddleboards and Marine Electronics | West Marine

Will all have the adapter you are looking for.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:41 PM   #30
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Something odd happened. I typed in the web site addresses and what popped out in my post reads more like an ad.

Defender
Fisheries supply
Englund marine
West marine
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Old 01-22-2015, 05:35 AM   #31
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I just got a 30 amp to 50 amp , 25' long voltec brand from amazon for 62$ delivered, will be a lot easier moving it around than the big 50 amp cord
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:18 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
Hope I get this correct. In an AS that has 50amps in reality you have a split system. One leg of the 50amps/125V goes to circuit 1 and the other leg goes to circuit 2. Each circuit has one of the A/C units on it plus other 'stuff'. You can look at the manual or the CB panel to determine which devices/outlets are on each circuit.

Just an assumption since I don't have my Classic yet but the adapter pigtails must put power to both circuits. Limitation would be that you only have a total of 30amps across both circuits. Should be able to run everything except 2 A/C units at the same time.

And no 220/240 in the trailer as has been mentioned.
It's not really proper to talk about "legs" when referring to 120V power.

If we had 240V (which we don't) we would then talk about two "legs."

240V contains 4 wires. Two hots, one neutral, and one ground. Measure voltage across the two hots, and you get 240. Measure voltage between one hot and neutral, you get 120. Those are the "legs" that must be kept balanced to keep the neutral from being overloaded. A 240V panel will normally have two "legs" internally, so both 240V loads and 120V loads can be connected.

This is TMI (too much information) for us, but there you go.

The only difference between 30A 120V and 50A 120V is the size of the wire and the rating of the circuit breakers. 30A uses AWG10 wire; 50A uses AWG6 wire. In a 50A 120V breaker panel, there is still just one hot, one neutral, and one ground. They are just bigger. The panel is rated 50A and two A/C's can be connected to it. They are not on separate "legs."
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:26 PM   #33
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Lots of them here:
Amazon.com: 50 amp male to 30 amp female adapter
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:16 AM   #34
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We use the 'adapter' on the end of the 50 amp cord. I then shut off the non essential circuit breakers in the AC distribution box.. like the rear AC... during the day.. and the front at night.. that way we can't 'accidentally' overload the system.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:59 AM   #35
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The original post does not want to use the heavy 50 amp cord, instead he needs to buy the 30 amp cord with the 50 amp end for his trailer. ....
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:39 AM   #36
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This was one of the first things I bought for our dual AC, 50A FC 25':

Marinco Park Power 50-Amp Locking Adapter with 25' 30-Amp Cord - Marinco 124ARV-25 - Electrical Adapters - Camping World

It's much lighter and more flexible than the 50' cord, and I often use it even when there is 50A service available, so long as we aren't using both ACs.

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Old 01-24-2015, 10:04 AM   #37
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RV Adapter Catalog

This thread makes a great resource for RV adapters I didn't even know existed.
Lot's of great options. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:28 AM   #38
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As a 50 amp rig owner for about 4 1/2 years I can agree with the hassle of handling the heavy and stiff 50 amp cord. However I didn't go the route of adding a second cord. When researching 50 amp rigs before buying, several owners recommended purchasing a 30 amp cord for use when 50 amp is not needed. The thought was that the 30 amp was lighter and more flexible.

While that is certainly true, I haven't found handling the 50 amp an undue burden. I also like not worrying about what can be on, including the electric HWH. I was also concerned about the additional storage space for a second cord.

One adapter that hasn't been mentioned in this thread that I found very useful is a 50/15 amp. It makes plugging in the TT while in storage much simpler. I leave the adapter on the end of my extension cord that is in the storage shed.

Marinco 124ARV-25

ParkPower by Marinco Twist Lock Adapter
50 Amp locking connector with 15 Amp straight blade plug
Comfort grip connector
Easy Lock system
Includes threaded ring, Allows coaches with 50 Amp locking service to connect to household power, Female 50A, 125/250-V 3-pole, 4-wire locking to male 15A 125-V
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Old 01-24-2015, 11:24 AM   #39
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Expert testimony requested

I have a 30 Amp Cord to which i have spliced in a 50 Amp female plug so i can directly hook up the trailer to my generator without the cumbersome 50 Amp cord, which i find a bit overwhelming. And, when I have my new cord plugged into a 50 Amp shore receptacle, here is what I get for readings. My query is: Have I done this correctly....experts?

Airstream_50_Amp_Receptacle to 30_Amp_Cord.001 by Fantinesvoice.com, on Flickr
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msmoto View Post
I have a 30 Amp Cord to which i have spliced in a 50 Amp female plug so i can directly hook up the trailer to my generator without the cumbersome 50 Amp cord, which i find a bit overwhelming. And, when I have my new cord plugged into a 50 Amp shore receptacle, here is what I get for readings. My query is: Have I done this correctly....experts?

Airstream_50_Amp_Receptacle to 30_Amp_Cord.001 by Fantinesvoice.com, on Flickr
No, it is not correct.

You are using a 125/250V connector. The 50A 125V *only* connector is different. Do not use that cord until you get it right!

Here is a drawing of twist-lock connectors. Study it carefully. Note the difference between the 50A 125V and the 50A 125/250V connectors.



As I said earlier, you can derive 125V from one leg of a 250V circuit, but since we are dealing with just 125V here, you *must* use the 125V *only* connectors.
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:12 PM   #41
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@Gnorts

Thanks, i will reconfigure this to comply....
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Old 01-24-2015, 11:32 PM   #42
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If one looks carefully at their power panel with a factory 50 amp service to support dual air conditioners, it is a 240 VAC box with two 120Vac busses. While no 240Vac circuit breakers are used since all appliances and air conditioners are 120Vac, you should have a 240Vac main breaker. A four #6 wire cord with connectors that have three pins plus the grounding strap on the trailer end and four pins for the pedestal on the side are capable of bringing in two legs with 50 amp capacity on each one or supporting a total electrical load of 12,000 watts.

So that huge motor home with 50 amp service can run bigger air conditioners, washer and dryer etc with no issues.

So setting up the circuits properly, one would find an air conditioner on each leg and the water heater on one leg and the refrigerator on the other leg to balance the load. The power outlets could on one leg and the microwave on the other so the imbalance is minimal.

Some of the adapters for the four conductor 120/240 power cord can put the two legs together so that a 120Vac source powers both legs which limits the power draw to 5,000 watts on a 50 amp pedestal or 3,600 watts on a 30 amp pedestal.

Before plugging into a power pedestal, the user should verify whether there is a two pole breaker or single pole breaker for the desired plug. A voltmeter should then verify that the outlet has 120Vac or 240Vac if there is a four pin outlet.
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