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Old 04-24-2004, 06:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjonesnc
Chas,
Due to the age of you coach I would highly reccomend replacing the reciever/dryer on your dash ac when you have the retrofit done. I have done Motorhomes of the same age as yours, some needed entirely new systems and some were ok but few. ALL of them had reciever/dryers that were as heavy as a brick
-Jason
This makes sense, except I am dealing with the rooftop coach air-conditioner. I haven't gotten to the truck air yet.
Chas
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Old 04-25-2004, 09:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasgould
I guess that you mean that the 12 volt stuff should work, even when not plugged into 110 power. So, are you suggesting that I runanother test lead from the positive terminal of the coach battery to the positive outlet of the UNIVOLT, or to somewhere on the coach wiring? Chas
Close. Hook a jumper wire from the + terminal of your coach battery to the + side of the buss bar in your fuse panel. If everything now works, you know you have a problem in the feed wire from the battery. Replace as necessary.
Good luck.
Terry
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Old 04-25-2004, 09:26 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasgould
This makes sense, except I am dealing with the rooftop coach air-conditioner. I haven't gotten to the truck air yet.
Chas
If it is low on freon, find someone that is a household A/C guy, he can repair it with little problem, as these units are little more than a slightly oversized room A/C in your house.
Terry
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:08 PM   #18
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Taming the electrical monster!

Thanks for your patience guys. I am getting this electrical beast tamed, but slowly. I now have 12 volt lights and appliances when plugged into 110 power, or when running the onboard generator.
I don't have 12 volt lights from the coach batteries, and I no longer have 12 volt lights from the engine battery when the key is turned to accessory, which I did have before.
I did run a new ground wire from the negative coach battery terminal to the chassis ground, which solved the 12 volt power when plugged into 110 volts, but also caused me to lose the 12 volt power when the ignition key was on accessory.
I suspect that someone has added a solonoid or relay to act as a battery isolator or to prevent battery draw down when not in use. There were articles and drawings in the manual and paperwork indicating this addition. When I open the access door up front, there is a rather large, rounded body solonoid which the battery terminals go to, and a much smaller rectangular modern relay or solonoid as well. There is also a 20 amp fusable link, but it appears good with continuity across the posts.
Are one or both of these solonoids stock parts or were they added by a previous owner. How do I test them? How do I bypass them to test the system without them? How would they work if working properly. Would the relay close as soon as a load were detected, or would there have to be a hidden switch that I can't find, or was it intended not to allow the 12 volt lights and appliances to work unless the ignition key were on accessory, which seems ridiculous, as it would tend to kill both batteries instead of keeping the engine battery isolated out of the system?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chas
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Old 05-12-2004, 10:56 AM   #19
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The univolt beast

Chas

I have a 1985 270 A/S MH. I am having the exact problems with my 12 voly system that you have. No 12 volt off the house battery, 120 & generator work fine. I will be resolved to having it looked at my a local shop if I come to a dead end. I haven't checked my neg. ground, or the ned fuse( not sure where to look) found everything else. During my hunt I did find a switch @ the glove compartment the allows one to bypass the starter battery when it is low, it is connected to the solinod. Learned something new.
I really want to solve this thing as bad as you.

torin knorr
1985 270 w/ banks power exhaust
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Old 05-12-2004, 11:55 AM   #20
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Univolt beast

Eurika!!! I finally solved the Univolt/12 volt accessory problem. Pay attention, Torin, as I bet this is the same problem with your Argosy.
There are two large fuses under the engine access bay, where you check the radiator and batteries etc. They shoukd be in the center of the access panel right in front of you as you open it. You will see the negative out in the open, and the positive is under a black plastic cover with a single stud and nut to secure the cover. Although these fuses may be fine, the fuse holders tend to corrode, and do not make a good connection to the fuse body, so that even though you will have continuity across the fuse, you will not across the fuse holder. The fuse msut be removed, and the bracket or fuse holder, sanded or scraped clean to make a good contact with the fuse body. I found that both my positive and negative were both culprits, and required cleaning.
A good way to test this problem is to turn on the 12 volt lights which you can see from the front of the truck while accessing the service panel, and watch the lights while you rotate the fuses in their holders, or run a temporary jumper wire across the fuse holder bracket. Be sure to scratch it into the metal as the outside of this bracket is also corroded.
Finally, on your rig, that isolation switch or the solonoid may also be the culprit, but my money is on these fuse holders, as the solonoids are usually quite reliable. The previous owner may have added that switch and solonoid to prevent the coach battery from running down when not in use. It should not have anything to do with the bypass of the engine battery. It either disengages the coach battery to prevent run down when not in use, or it links both batteries in series for engine starts or jumps when the engine battery is weak. Please let me know if this helps you on your problems.
Thanks,
Chas
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Old 05-12-2004, 02:48 PM   #21
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Chas

Great news!
I will be under the hood when I get home tonight. I was not sure where those fuses where located. Thanks for the info on the switch, my manual mentioned it's function, must have been a factory installed item.
I will let you know the outcome of my next adventure.
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:09 AM   #22
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OK
I get home anixous to get some dirt under my nails. I look everywhere, cannot find the main 12voly pos & neg. fuses. I know that that the lead from the 12voly battery bank is dead, the univolt seems to work. When I pulled the univolt from the coach, I bench tested it and it was showing 12.8- 13.2 volts. I could not get a reading on the 12volt leg from the battery. I tried to follow the lead, it's buried under the coach.
Anyone with a 270 1985 A/S knows where the main fuses are? I looked at the front access panel, no nada.
I am thinking about running a new lead from the battery bank. A test showed that this works.

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:24 AM   #23
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In my coach, and I think most of the ones that use a univolt mounted by the passenger seat, the fuse panel is hidden. It is built into the riser that transitions form the main floor to the cab floor below the Passenger side seat. There is carpet covering it. If you use the left seat belt bolt as a reference, come half way down on the carpeted riser and give it a tug. It should be hinged. If you have the Magnetek brown style in the kitchen Battery Charger, the fuse panel is in the charger.

You could also have a bad battery isolator that is affecting the 12 VDC battery lead. It is normally under the hood on the right side of the firewall, and blue or red finned aluminum.
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:05 PM   #24
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Thanks Brett for the reply

In my coach the Univolt is located under the rear coach next to the entry door. The fuse panel is located behind a hinged panel at the base of the coach, very accessable. Interesting enough, my wiring diagram shows all of the fuses etc, however, these are not standard fuses as I know them, I tried to pull off a black plate and no nada. Also my converter/ charger does not have a univolt name, however it is a 50 converter etc.
I will check the isolator. it is located as you described. I am just wondering if my coach does have a 50 amp fuses as mentioned in previous posts.

My A/S is a 27" Excella 1985, has 2 pull out couches( one front, one rear) that make into beds, rear bathroom. batteries located in side pull-out drawer. Just replaced house batteries w/ new deep cycle.

Thanks

Torin Knorr
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:26 PM   #25
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OK,

Here is a dumb question. In the battery drawer is there a switch to disconnect the batteries from the rest of the coach? It will be a knurled silver knob with a ridge that points to the battery choice. Some are on/off others are on/off/all The last would be a boost setting.
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Old 05-13-2004, 02:45 PM   #26
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Brett
The org. owner replaced the switch w/ one located inside thw coach. Tonight I will chech the connections, possible failure,anything is possible at this point. Regarding the booster... is that a seperate switch, there is a 2 legged switch of the solonid that has a small srew in the center. It is located on the back of the battery drawer.
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