They all buzzzzzzz. Thats the older tech. That doesn't mean anything is wrong. I meet a guy who has a 75 and his looks pretty nice as well and he hasn't changed anything. His goal was to redo/fix it up with out spending any $$. I had a lot of fun doing my trailer over. I love the look of it and just wanted to customize it. The trailer was just so bad to start I had to redo stuff. My friends wouldn't go in it at first. I had to pay two kid's to clean it out. A year later and I'm loving it. I'll help you in anyway I can. everything I learned was from digging in this web site. I haven't had time to visit in awhile. Like I said I know alot more then I ever wanted to about the A/S.
If I was going to do it over again.... I'd just go faster. I was so afraid of each step. A/S's are really easy to work on. They are made really good to start. I got just about everything from reading here. You can learn what people to buy from and who to stay away from. Make sure you have a place to store pieces you remove till later. I had a 16' trailer full to the top with panels and pieces. DO NOT get rid of ANYTHING yet. You will kick yourself later. Then... just go nut's. I changed the electrical, water, sewer, polished it, redid the travel gear, had it down to bare frame and got it all back togther again in under 9 months. Make sure your nice to people who live near you because they will think your nut's.
As for cool stuff... I bought some Wilsonart alum. panel that is mirror black and redid the celing. I also cut it and used it in the fridge door. They use it in limo's. Thats pretty cool and makes it look newer. I took off all the screens (and door) and had it powder coated a cool silver, put in new screen and just that makes it look great. Maybe $350 in that. You can kinda see the way I redid the front dome/header area. I filled in the hole for the control panel and took it to a car interior place and had them lay a head liner over it. That makes the trailer... well ties it togther. I don't wanna sound like I know it all.... I don't. But there are some really smart people here who love to help. If there is anything I can help you with just email me (kbrennan007@hotmail.com). I can send you pictures of before,during and after. Just dig in... tell the wife to start coming up with idea's... I've seen people paint, wallpaper you name it. I did the leopard after seeing Auston Powers plane.
Have a great night.
TEll ME MORE, TELL ME MORE....
I started gutting our new '76 over the past weekend, I want to do everything you've done to yours (wireless, MP3, surround etc.). When I plugged her in the first time, that strange buzzing sound echoed throughout the coach. Assuming this isnt a healthy sound for a 30 year old, its time for modernization. So I'm just starting out as well. Plus the wife digs your leopard coach.. Any words of wisdom would be helpful....
They don't know the lyrics! Ha ha ha ha... I kill me sometimes...
Seriously, if you are planning to use modern electronics in your coach, you should consider installing an Intellipower. It has a smoother power output, and doesn't hum.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
1976 31' Sovereign
1961 19' Globetrotter
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 32
Alright, So today I ordered the 60 Amp Intellipower, with charging wizard included (WOOHOO!!) from bestconverter. I also have a new distribution panel coming as well. From another site I ordered a 1000W inverter (W/O charger) for the coach receps (Last weekend the kids wanted to play XBOX, but I didnt want to start the generator just for that, so we rode quads instead). My thought process is to configure the Inverter off of the DC panel supplying the receps, with exception to the A/C and the Fridge. I figure the fridge will run on LP, and A/C off of Generator when it warms up. Thinking I may need a second battery.
Until the electrical goods come in, I 'm working on H2O lines (all split copper). Considering replacing all the copper with PVC or poly tubing like the new R.V.'s.
That sounds fine but I don't think you will want to have your fridge run only on LP. I have PS2 in my truck and it runs off an inverter from the 12v.
Remember A/S have a fuse inline on the ground as well as the pos. The intelli also has a ground on the case (goes to body of A/S) as well as a neg. out line.
Any questions about the set-up you can PM me. Are you going to use the one battery (I'm sure fine) or going to add to the one??
I just got back from ME on a 10day trip and think that I should have just left the stock wireing and never added the extra batterys. Its way over kill. I stayed at a friends house one day with out 110v and just worked off the (1) 12v batt. I used the fan in the vent and lights,etc... I watched the needle for my power and it never really moved. The fan was on all day at least 6hr's and when I checked power loss it was like nothing. I still have the 2 6v's fresh, never touched. I did all this before I really used my A/S in the real world. I was new to camping in a trailer and was reading as much as I could on this site. I thought I'd need that much power.... I probably got 3grand in the wire/bat,intelli,and extra stuff. I bet I woulda been fine with alot less. It was cool to be able to watch tv,play PS2, and have my PowerBook going in the middle of no were and still have plenty left over... but sooooo. I was camping out, I coulda just played cards and been happy. (well, I'd still need beer)
I know I would rather have too much available power than not enough.
I went with a 60 amp.
BAM! Kick it up a notch!
Have you given thought to whether the wiring is stout enough to handle the extra amperage? If not, the next "BAM!" you hear, may be the wiring doing its own little version of Three Mile Island.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
Have you given thought to whether the wiring is stout enough to handle the extra amperage? If not, the next "BAM!" you hear, may be the wiring doing its own little version of Three Mile Island.
Uh, each circuit is fused individually. How would it go BAM? Maybe POP!
If a circuit draws 10 amps and it is rated for 20 it will be fine. If a circuit draws 25 amps and it is rated for 20 amps, then POP!
Just because the converter is rated for 60 amps does not mean that it will have a DRAW of 60 amps.
The rating of the converter does not mean that it is PUMPING out that much. It means that it can HANDLE that much current. DOH!
BAM! Mushroom cloud above my converter!
Uh, each circuit is fused individually. How would it go BAM? Maybe POP!
If a circuit draws 10 amps and it is rated for 20 it will be fine. If a circuit draws 25 amps and it is rated for 20 amps, then POP!
Just because the converter is rated for 60 amps does not mean that it will have a DRAW of 60 amps.
The rating of the converter does not mean that it is PUMPING out that much. It means that it can HANDLE that much current. DOH!
BAM! Mushroom cloud above my converter!
Okay, How about sizzle? Can it at least sizzle?
I have put oversized alternators on vehicles, and they nuked the wires going from the alternator to the battery.
This probably won't happen, but it is worth looking into.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
Okay, How about sizzle? Can it at least sizzle?
I have put oversized alternators on vehicles, and they nuked the wires going from the alternator to the battery.
This probably won't happen, but it is worth looking into.
Sizzle would be cool!
Alternators work differently than converters, buddy.
I would really dig a good sizzle though!
I think the Univolt is 55amp's... I also believe if you turn EVERYTHING on that you can and read the draw it's right around 55. Thats why they used it. Unless you added or changed something you'll never need more power. BUT... you will be able to supply all the power you need plus recharge your battery's. I tryied mine out and with everything on and having a 200w 4channel amp pretty loud I was under 60amps.
Id switch out the univolt for the intelli just to add the charging wisard. Just to keep the batterys in check. It is alittle work but not that hard. Battery's are costly and if not taken care of don't last.
I have a 80amp unit and ran 4g. from the itelli to a switch, 4g from the switch to the breaker box and the same size wire (14/12,etc.) to draw. I've really put it to use and have no problems. I haven't had a breaker "pop" yet... but that would be because of something at the draw not the intelli.
1976 31' Sovereign
1961 19' Globetrotter
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 32
[QUOTE=RiskIt]
Remember A/S have a fuse inline on the ground as well as the pos. The intelli also has a ground on the case (goes to body of A/S) as well as a neg. out line.
No.. I wouldn't. One is the ground and the other grounds the case. I grounded the case to the body on it's own.... what can it hurt to have it grounded in two spot's.... Better safe then smoke......
I wanted to post this seperate so it didn't get lost in the other Univolt Post I made earlier.
Here is the outcome.
Camping World in Kissimmee (Bill was the technician) did a bang-up, A-1, PROFESSIONAL job on the installation. I couldn't have done it better myself and I like all of you take pride in my rig. I have added the before and after pics for anyone interested.
Also, I have a used Univolt that still works (HUMMMMM's) if anyone is interested.
Thank you all for your help with my Univolt issue.
jssmith351, I am interested in your old univolt if the voltage regulator is working fine. Can you tell me what the actual output voltage was when you took it out? If it's around 13.5 volts i really am interested. If over 15 volts the output regulator is shorted.
I am also removing my univolt and replacing it. i wanted to make things new. there is nothing wrong with my old univolt. Its up for grabs as well. There are photos in my photo library if you want to see it.
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