There is a fairly good possibility that the Univolt in my '75 Sovereign has gone sneakers up, and needs replacing. I'm going to charge the battery up this weekend, then run the 12 volt lights and such, and see if the battery drains with continued use. The trailer is plugged into 110V, and stays that way yearround. With no 12 volt sources on, the battery level did not drop any voltage over the last month or so, so I don't think there is a short in the system. Runing the 12 volt lights recently, did drain the battery pretty quickly though. The Univolt does hum as expected, and all 110V systems are fine.
A few questions if you please;
1. If I have to replace the Univolt, I'm looking at the Inteli-Power 9100. What amperage rating is recommended, 40, 55, greater?
2. If I use the Inteli-Power, do I need to keep my existing fuse panel and transfer it to the I/P? How difficult is that if it's needed?
3. Do you recommend the battery-wizard-minder-plug-in thingie to go with the I/P 9100?
4. Any surprises you can fowarn me about in changing from dinosaur technology to rocket science?
Thanks!
John-Boy
__________________ Sarchasm (n): The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.
1975 31' Sovereign
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 'Laramie', HEMI
There is a fairly good possibility that the Univolt in my '75 Sovereign has gone sneakers up, and needs replacing. I'm going to charge the battery up this weekend, then run the 12 volt lights and such, and see if the battery drains with continued use. The trailer is plugged into 110V, and stays that way yearround. With no 12 volt sources on, the battery level did not drop any voltage over the last month or so, so I don't think there is a short in the system. Runing the 12 volt lights recently, did drain the battery pretty quickly though. The Univolt does hum as expected, and all 110V systems are fine.
A few questions if you please
1. If I have to replace the Univolt, I'm looking at the Inteli-Power 9100. What amperage rating is recommended, 40, 55, greater?
Changed ours to a 60 amp model. Its just a matter of how fast it can recharge a dead battery while holding the DC load.
2. If I use the Inteli-Power, do I need to keep my existing fuse panel and transfer it to the I/P? How difficult is that if it's needed?
I kept my old one. changed the feed to the IP.
3. Do you recommend the battery-wizard-minder-plug-in thingie to go with the I/P 9100?
Yes. It will help keep your battery in better shape by controlling the way it is chargeing.( Smart Charge)
4. Any surprises you can fowarn me about in changing from dinosaur technology to rocket science?
Longer Battery Life. Quieter operation, and a whiter smile.
There is a fairly good possibility that the Univolt in my '75 Sovereign has gone sneakers up, and needs replacing. I'm going to charge the battery up this weekend, then run the 12 volt lights and such, and see if the battery drains with continued use. The trailer is plugged into 110V, and stays that way yearround. With no 12 volt sources on, the battery level did not drop any voltage over the last month or so, so I don't think there is a short in the system. Runing the 12 volt lights recently, did drain the battery pretty quickly though. The Univolt does hum as expected, and all 110V systems are fine.
A few questions if you please
1. If I have to replace the Univolt, I'm looking at the Inteli-Power 9100. What amperage rating is recommended, 40, 55, greater?
Changed ours to a 60 amp model. Its just a matter of how fast it can recharge a dead battery while holding the DC load.
2. If I use the Inteli-Power, do I need to keep my existing fuse panel and transfer it to the I/P? How difficult is that if it's needed?
I kept my old one. changed the feed to the IP.
3. Do you recommend the battery-wizard-minder-plug-in thingie to go with the I/P 9100?
Yes. It will help keep your battery in better shape by controlling the way it is chargeing.( Smart Charge)
4. Any surprises you can fowarn me about in changing from dinosaur technology to rocket science?
Longer Battery Life. Quieter operation, and a whiter smile.
Gary,
Thanks for sharing the info.
I too am considering the same upgrade on our 1995 Sovereign. Our Univolt appears to be in a plywood box under the couch in the
front of our AS. Is ventillation a factor with an Intellipower?
Also, our 2 batteries are located 2 separate compartments and access is through 2 small doors in the front of the AS. When the IP/smart charger system goes through the equalization mode the batteries must give off gas . How big is the ventelation issue for batteries?
PS Have fun at the Oregen gathering. We wish we could make it.
Phil
Gary,
Thanks for sharing the info.
I too am considering the same upgrade on our 1995 Sovereign. Our Univolt appears to be in a plywood box under the couch in the
front of our AS. Is ventillation a factor with an Intellipower?
Also, our 2 batteries are located 2 separate compartments and access is through 2 small doors in the front of the AS. When the IP/smart charger system goes through the equalization mode the batteries must give off gas . How big is the ventelation issue for batteries?
PS Have fun at the Oregen gathering. We wish we could make it.
Phil
Phil
I believe that the ventalation requirements for the IP charger would be about the same for a Univolt. The IP unit has a fan so you would need some air flow. I would imagine that a few holes in the box would server that purpose. I did not see any spific air flow requirements stated in the installation instructions, but you could contact the IP people and get that specific info.
Equalization gassing is always something to consider. I have had mine installed for about 10 months and have not noticed any problems. The battery door does have two vents at the top of it.. I would however look at the position and make sure there weren't any possible sources of ignition near them. Also check to see that the battery compartment ventalation is not blocked.
Janet and I are working on a list this morning for the trip. Yes indeed I will have fun, Love to travel.
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