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Old 03-29-2003, 05:50 PM   #29
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Univolt Configuration

Frank-- Thanks for the comeback--I think I have a mess, not only a mess, but a confusing mess. you were correct in that the " kill switch " purpose is to basically shut-off 12v current when the trailer is not being used for some time. The current discussion to me appears to center around something different than what I have in the 02 Bambi. Couldn't stand the pain of not knowing so, went to the Bambi this A. M. ( after it warmed was +13 last night ) & woke her up from slumber to look. There is no fan --it's not hard wired-- has LOTS of wires coming out from both ends that go all over & the name Bard ? or something close. Couldn't tell, cause like all flashlights I own they never work when I need them. Went to the A/S owners manual--refers to a Magne Tec- wiring diagram shows fans plug-ins, a wiring board of sorts--the manual tells all about how to check them out --what they should read, etc.Nothing like I have-- FYI I have talked to A/S last summer on this very issuse, but cause I was new at this didn't press the issuse, to avoid looking dumb. Trying to use the winter time to see just how the insides of the Bambi looks & operates, but man is it difficult with the info A/S gives one. For the most part the manual I have is pretty useless. appreciate your thoughts. Thanks,

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Old 02-19-2006, 08:08 AM   #30
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this is a great thread on my most pressing topic

Originally Posted by FrankR
Hey Pap, ya found me out. I did work for the film industry for 11 years in special effects. Very interesting world. My film work ended in 1973.
This is a great thread. One more question: It appears that I only have stock space for one battery. BUT we will be taking the Sov. into the wilderness and I'm wondering about adding in a second to increase my staying power. Any thoughts on this installation?

PS: Frank, I was a post production supervisor at Lorimar Television 1984-1990. I worked on Dallas, Our House and Max Headroom. Now I'm hiding out in Idaho just like you.

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Old 02-19-2006, 11:55 AM   #31
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Another question...

I am planning to make a cross country journey this summer with my family. Unfortunately, I am still working on the electric aspects of the camper... and I hope to resolve the issues before I begin. My basic desire is to have the camper with electric while traveling. That is, to have the refrigerator keeping the food cold and in the event we arrive to a campground late, I can utilize power from my battery. So, I really need to avoid draining my battery of its power during this usage.

I have drawn the attache diagram, very basic... Does anyone have any experience with this configuration, can it work, any sources that will give me the directions needed to make this work?

As always, I thank you for your support.

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Old 02-25-2006, 11:39 PM   #32
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Electrical connections while on the road

The connections while on the road are very simple, but some care and planning are required. I'm not a big fan of isolators. My choise for seperating the tow vehicle and tow car is a large HD 100% duty relay. The relay is controlled via the tow car;s ignition switch. Every time the tow car is stopped, the battery connection is opened. If the trailer battery is consumed, the tow car can start and drive away. A good choise of wire size between tow car and trailer would be #10 MTW stranded. There should be a fuse or circuit breaker located between the tow car battery and the relay. I prefer a new aircraft breaker but all the car stereo stores have all the required
materials. I also prefer to use a seperate electrical disconnect plug for the connections between the tow can and trailer. An easy disconnect has 4 connections in a single plug. I use 2 wires for each the "hot' positive and 2 wires for the ground negative. Just one extra plug to unplug.. Frank
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:50 AM   #33
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Murphy, are you planning on running and apartment style fridge in your coach? I have a small one in mine. It draws 1.9 amps at 120 vac. This will translate to 20 amps at 12 volts. That is a lot of current to be drawn through a 50-60' piece of #10 wire, which is about the distance from vehicle alternator to battery in back of the coach. You would need a fairly large inverter to handle the starting current of the compressor.

That being said, and the fact that I do not know what kind of tow vehicle you have, here's what I would do if your TV was a pickup. Run a small generator, such as a Honda EU series in the bed of the truck. I have done it and have seen others, as well. You can run an armored cable from the bottom fridge vent along the belly pan to the hitch, to supply 120 vac from the generator in the bed.

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