What does the univolt do? Does it just keep the battery charged or does it perform some other function? If it just charges the battery, couldn't i replace it with a trickle charger?
__________________ 1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162
1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
The UniVolt converts shore power (110 volts AC) to 12 volts DC. The 12 volts charges the battery(s) and provides power to the lights, water pump, radio and any other 12 volt devices you have. If you are going to be parked at a site with shore power, you will want to have one. A trickle charger may not keep up with your power demands. If you only boondock (no shore power) you could get by with just a charger.
If you trailer is anything like mine, my univolt is getting tired and overcharges the batteries.
I have been looking at the Intelli-power 9245 45amp as a suitable replacement.
I would expect you will get some other comments on a good replacement for the univolt.
I replaced my Univolt with an Intellipower and have had zero problems with it at all. The intellipower will not only charge your batteries but also condition them to keep them operating at thier peak efficiency (depending on thier age, amount of plate sulfation, etc...). http://www.canadus.com/home/sulfation/
I still use my old Univolt...as a yard lighting transformer. It doesn't do a good job of even that because it heats up to much with just 10 amps of 12 volt load.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingfoot321
Cookeville 34,
If you trailer is anything like mine, my univolt is getting tired and overcharges the batteries.
I have been looking at the Intelli-power 9245 45amp as a suitable replacement.
I would expect you will get some other comments on a good replacement for the univolt.
How do you know if the Univolt is working correctly? I've put a battery in my trailer and all the 12 volt stuff works, but I don't know if its just working off the battery or using the Univolt or both. Also wondered what size inverter I might need for my 120 v fridge/freezer?
__________________ 1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162
1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
Well if you are talking about powering your fridge from your 12 volt system, don't do it. It will kill your batteries in an hour or so. Use AC power when you have shore power and propane when you don't. If you have an A.C./D.C./Propane model, use the D.C. only when you are towing.
The intellipower will only convert 120 volt A.C. power (shore power) to 12 D.C. volts for your batteries and your 12 volt lighting, fans and other equipment in the trailer.
I keep my trailer plugged in all the time when I am not using it. This allows the intellipower to keep the batteries charged/maintained and to ready to use. I do not worry about a boil out.
I claim firm title to the label as the Forum Idiot (heh, even Hillary says every "village" needs one!). After three camping trips, I sat down this evening to read the "safety course," owner's manual, and OEM literature that came with my 2006 Bambi Safari 19' unit. Wow. Lots of good stuff in there!
Reading got me thinking...
1. When storing your AS (ours will be in storage less than 30 days at a time), do you turn off your propane tanks? Do you disconnect your battery?
2. When driving down the road, do you have your propane turned off?
3. Should I really upgrade my converter to an Intellipower one or the 3 phase?
4. Do I need to upgrade my hitch to a HA, and Equilizer, Reese? Manteca installed a Robbins 800 lb bar WDH. I have a Prodigy brake controller.
Thanks. I HAVE been reading the threads and am about convinced to upgrade the converter and, if the bonus is big enough in the spring, a new hitch.
Jer
__________________ Roscinante
Jerry and Avis
2006 Safari Bambi 19'
2005 Toyota Tacoma PU
You can pull trailer to someone who can test charging in just a few minutes. Or, a small $20 tester can test battery (while unhooked from univolt leads) and also test the univolt when hooked to the positive and neg leads. (not on battery posts) I have a large portable tester used by a lot of garages. Would have to check specs but, seems like my univolt charges at about 13.6 volts.
You can only use approx a 300-350 watt inverter by plugging into your trailer system. Otherwise, you have to hook directly to the battery. Not much more than a tv makes sense due to running down the battery.
Do you have an airstream manual. Should tell you about frig. Mine is gas or 120 volt electric. I startup unit on elec before I travel and switch to gas while traveling.
1. Yes
2. no, I run the fridge.
3. The intellipower is a 3 stage now I think, Before you had to get a module to do the staging. There are other units out ther but I can olly speak about the intellipower.
4. Normally i would thing a hitch with a sway bar and weight distribution bars is all that's needed. However, I do love my Hensley.
Just one man's opinion....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscinante
I claim firm title to the label as the Forum Idiot (heh, even Hillary says every "village" needs one!). After three camping trips, I sat down this evening to read the "safety course," owner's manual, and OEM literature that came with my 2006 Bambi Safari 19' unit. Wow. Lots of good stuff in there!
Reading got me thinking...
1. When storing your AS (ours will be in storage less than 30 days at a time), do you turn off your propane tanks? Do you disconnect your battery?
2. When driving down the road, do you have your propane turned off?
3. Should I really upgrade my converter to an Intellipower one or the 3 phase?
4. Do I need to upgrade my hitch to a HA, and Equilizer, Reese? Manteca installed a Robbins 800 lb bar WDH. I have a Prodigy brake controller.
Thanks. I HAVE been reading the threads and am about convinced to upgrade the converter and, if the bonus is big enough in the spring, a new hitch.
If you are talking about replacing your univolt with a more modern solid state Intellipower then I would suggest getting the biggest they have. They are lightweight and are vastly more reliable than the old univolts and you are practically guarenteed to never boil out your batteries.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe1261
what would be the best univolt for a 1973 Sovereign 31" ?
Yes I did do it myself. I removed the old Univolt and installed the Intellipower. I got the 65 amp model with the Charge controller (thrown in for free). I got it at Bestconverter.com. It was quite simple to remove the old unit and install the new one. I did put information on my web site. you can CLICK HERE to see it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscinante
Heh, Butter...
Was your Intellipower an upgrade? Did you do it yourself?
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