Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-01-2014, 09:55 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
Turn Signal Wire lost continuity

Re: 1965 Ambassador. My Right turn (brown) wire has lost continuity somewhere between the front and rear of the frame channel. (maybe chewed by a mouse) All other wires are intact. Is there a suggestion for routing a new wire inside of the frame channel from front to rear (or rear to front) , or do I have to jerry-rig something externally?

I thought that I could attach a new wire to the end of the old wire and (carefully) pull it through, but the old wire appears to be fastened inside somewhere and won't budge. Also, the body, floor, frame, and belly pan are in excellent condition and I don't really want to start cutting that stuff up.
__________________

__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2014, 10:14 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
HowieE's Avatar
 
1991 34' Excella
Princeton , New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,811
Images: 12
Assuming you can find the wire at the front of the trailer. The question is where can you get to the wire at the rear of the trailer other than at the fixture itself.

What I have done when wiring additional back up light is run a 1/4 in. copper or aluminum tubing under the trailer and attached as needed. Tie a note in a string and with an air gun blow the string through the tubing. Now pull the wire with the string and connect.

You may have to come up through the floor at the rear close to the wall. A few small holes in the interior skin and you should be able to fish the wire up the inside of the wall to the back of the fixture. There are several ways to cover the hole when done.
__________________

__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles

HowieE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2014, 11:10 AM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
Yup. I have access to the wire where it enters the frame (harness at the tow hitch) and where it exits the end of the frame (at rear of camper under the tank drain-valve access hatch on rear bumper). The wire is exposed there and then goes into the skin at that point and re-emerges at the RH turn signal: I have good continuity between those points. Anyway, that kind of answers the original question. Thanks!
__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2014, 11:40 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,124
Hi Minnesota! I installed a new 7 pin plug on my 66 Trade Wind. There is a access hatch in the belly pan at the front of the trailer along the curb side frame rail. Here is where the 7 pin plug connects to the trailer wire harness. It may be that there is a loose connection to the brown wire at this point. (Note, modern wire color convention is not the same as vintage Airstreams.)

The trailer exterior lighting and brake wires run along the curb side frame rail, and like you said, exit in the rear. It would be a challenge to pull a wire through there.

Maybe this is another place to check for an open connection.

Nice to hear your old Ambassador is in great shape. Most old trailers not so much.

David
__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Also a piece of PVC conduit from front to back, fastened to the belly pan would not be a difficult way to run a new wire or set of them if you have problems with others in the future. It would not be visible and gives you a solution which is fairly easy to do.
__________________
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 11:57 AM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
OK. I found the access hatch. Looks like mice set up shop in there. I'll let ya all know what I find. Haven't had time to dig through it yet. Anyway, the PVC conduit might be the simplest solution if I don't find anything in the hatch. By the way, the camper has never been restored, but everything is like mint inside except the frig didn't work and I added an AC. Woodwork is fantastic and the steel frame shows minimal rust. Water htr, furnace, stove, oven and belt-drive water pump are mint...even shiny. I'm pretty sure they are original. Toilet and blk water tank were gone so I found them online. Even shower/tub, sink and platform for toilet are in perfect condition. Exterior and belly pan are mint, but need polish etc. No sign of mice inside. And I just replaced the brakes. The old ones were intact, but pretty rusty. There's a bunch of antennae too, maybe TV, CB, radio....not sure. What a find huh??? Paid $3000 for it. Is that a good deal?

There is however a bullet hole that enters from the shower wall (curb side), goes through the shower curtain, enters the closet door(drvr side) and disappears into the wall inside the closet....no exit wound. So somewhere there's a bullet lodged inside my drvr side exterior wall.....cool!
__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 06:17 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,124
Wow, not very often do you find an unmolested nearly 50 year old Airstream ! I think you found a seller who wanted it gone. An old Airstream with a good frame and good shell is worth 5k anyway, and if the interior is in good shape, worth even more. Be careful of the furnace, the burners rust out. Most folks replace these old furnaces.

Glad you found the access hatch. Now you can test the 7 pin plug wiring harness to the trailer wire, and you can test the trailer wire running the length of the frame. Then you will know what to do to make the repair.

Here is a photo of the 1966 tow vehicle to trailer wiring diagram from my owners manual. It may help you.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1404 Exterior Lights Diagram.jpg
Views:	298
Size:	298.2 KB
ID:	223424  
__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 07:14 AM   #8
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks David. The diagram is very helpful. I already see something unrelated but does explain another mystery. I figured out before hand that the camper uses the yellow wire for the brakes rather than the blue. I thought that maybe someone had switched the wires for some reason....now I know it was the original convention (at least for AS) . Like they say in the movies...."don't cut the blue wire."

Anyway, I'll get back under the trailer as soon as it quits raining. It's really crappy out right now.

later
__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 10:50 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,124
Yes, my 66 Trade Wind has yellow brake wires. The entire external trailer light wire "harness" traveled along the curb side frame rail and crawled up the back of the trailer between the skins. It was tricky to match the new 7 pin plug wire colors to the old Airstream wire colors. I labeled them at the access hatch connection junction so a future owner might have an easier time of it.

I figured the wire color diagram would be helpful. It certainly was to me.

David
__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 08:36 AM   #10
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
Finally some nice weather to work in. So I opened the access hatch and there it was.....the brown wire had been chewed clear through. Thanks for the intel. I also noticed that a couple of the wires (from the plug side) showed exposed copper. So I decided to replace the entire plug and wire bundle (from hitch to access panel). I also tested the wires that go from there to the back of the trailer and found good continuity, but I can't tell if there's any bare wire along the way, so I think, for now, I'll stick with them anyway, since replacing those is a whole different ball-of-wax.

I also noticed that the steel channel frame ends, that meet under the hitch A-frame, are open and thus allow mice unfettered access to the belly pan etc. So while I had the plug and wire bundle out, I welded in a couple of 1/8" steel plates to box it all in, and then drilled a hole just large enough to run the cord bundle (with fitted grommet) through. Then I sealed the heck out of the entry point with vulkem. I also boxed in the black water tank area with 3/16" thick diamond pattern aluminum plate material (even made threaded holes for the bolts for easy access). Then I built a couple of heavy duty (bolt-on, easily removable) screen-type of structures that completely mitigate mouse entry through the external furnace and water heater vent/access areas. I can remove these when in use. And finally I added roof pipe cover vents with metal screens. Obviously, this is beyond the scope of our original discussion, but oh well. Anyway, I can't find any other entry points for mice.....if you think of anything I missed, let me know.

later
__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 09:08 AM   #11
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
So it looks like the original wire diagram assumes stop lights and turn signals are separate. Also, there's no provision for backup lights....who'd want to back up a 28' trailer in the dark anyway? Me I guess, because I combined stop and turn signals and re-tasked the brake light wire (black) for backup lights. I guess I just don't have enough to do.....I think I need a hobby.

later
__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 09:50 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,124
You now have a hobby! Gee, your ambitious! Glad you found the open wire. I found the open ended frame rails under my coupler too, and I sealed them up. Mice in Airstreams are very common, and sealing off any very small access hole it the best mitigation, other than a hungry cat.

My 66 Trade Wind has back up lights. I believe they were a factory option way back then, and I think they were standard on the International trim level.

I figured you would like a nice copy of the trailer wiring diagram since you are digging into your trailer's electrical systems. It's from my 66 owners manual. The manual states it's generic for the 66 model year. It may help you some in the near future. I have the "univolt" and fuse panel wiring diagram from the same manual if you need it.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1404 Trailer Wiring Diagram.jpg
Views:	1065
Size:	216.2 KB
ID:	224480  
__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 09:51 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
mimiandrews's Avatar

 
1966 22' Safari
Weatherford , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,425
How?

Quote:
Originally Posted by woliners View Post
So it looks like the original wire diagram assumes stop lights and turn signals are separate. Also, there's no provision for backup lights....who'd want to back up a 28' trailer in the dark anyway? Me I guess, because I combined stop and turn signals and re-tasked the brake light wire (black) for backup lights. I guess I just don't have enough to do.....I think I need a hobby.

later
Could you post a diagram of how you did this? Our '66 has no backup lights, so we might do the same if yours works out.
__________________
mimiandrews is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2014, 08:25 AM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
1965 28' Ambassador
Minnetonka , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
Hi mimiandrews,

I tried to post my diagram but when I click on the "Insert Image" icon, it asks for a URL....what's that? I drew the diagram using power point....I don't see a URL anywhere. And it does nothing when I try to copy and paste the image.

I can fix anything, but computers are a mystery to me.

thanks
__________________

__________________
woliners is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake wire continuity? Smoky Brakes & Brake Controllers 9 01-20-2013 09:36 PM
Bedroom Lights Don't Turn On/Turn Off and turn back on after a couple minutes. alecg Lights - Interior & Exterior 9 09-01-2010 03:01 PM
28' CCD: Right turn signal blows fuse michaero 2002 - 2005 International 4 11-30-2004 10:09 AM
turn signal problem Cruiser Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 9 10-25-2004 07:27 PM
Wire ,wire, oh wire can it be ? 69 Silverback Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 8 05-15-2003 12:09 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.