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Old 08-28-2014, 09:59 AM   #15
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Assuming the 7-wire connector is making contact and assuming no other large loads on the circuit such as lights on, etc., the only other possibility is your batteries are losing their capacity. Meaning, even though they show a full charge when you start out they can't sustain that kind of load for long periods. 11 amps is a significant load and is also more than your tow vehicle will deliver without a heavy duty alternator. Even though you likely have deep cycle batteries, you're probably depleting them in excess of 50% each time you travel. It's takes more than a truck alternator and an hour or two of recharging for the batteries to recover from that state of depletion and they've probably become sulfated.

You need to either not run the refer when traveling or fix it so that propane doesn't blow out.
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:09 PM   #16
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Not sure if this is relevant. But my brother's 2011 F150 came from the factory missing a fuse that was needed to charge the Airstream batteries while going down the road. Easy fix once discovered, but it took us a while.
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:42 PM   #17
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So, should I run the frig on LP while driving & if the flame blows out the ignitor will restart it when I stop? Will the ignitor keep sparking if there is too much airflow thru the vents and maybe run the batt down? I think my best option is to start with a cold refer run on LP or shore power, then stop for lunch & turn on the LP to cool it down. I'm not sure why there is a batt mode on the refer!
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acstokes View Post
11 amps is a significant load and is also more than your tow vehicle will deliver without a heavy duty alternator.
That, and the wiring from the truck to the trailer usually can't support a huge draw.

Quote:
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So, should I run the frig on LP while driving & if the flame blows out the ignitor will restart it when I stop? Will the ignitor keep sparking if there is too much airflow thru the vents and maybe run the batt down? I think my best option is to start with a cold refer run on LP or shore power, then stop for lunch & turn on the LP to cool it down. I'm not sure why there is a batt mode on the refer!
What kind of wind are we talking about here? It shouldn't be blowing out under normal circumstances. It makes me wonder if the flame isn't adjusted correctly, or spiders are in the venturi or whatever, or something like that.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:20 PM   #19
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On Propane, if the flame does not ignite or blows out, in general there is a limited window of time for the automatic re light to operate, like maybe twice or three times, then it simply shuts down. It must then be turned off to reset it.

The spark lighting system takes very little power to operate, BTW.

I would look for the reason the propane flame goes out, and eliminate any use of 12 volt power for the heater. I am surprised your unit has a 3 way refrigerator to begin with. My 2014 20' FC does not.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:35 PM   #20
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The 7-way plug is not the only suspect. The cable from it goes to a junction box inside of the AS. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH LIGHTS, CHARGING OR BRAKES CHECK THE CONNECTIONS IN THIS BOX!
Sorry for capital letters, i just finished crawling there in 95 degF weather and tighten the connections. All inside of the box were so loose I think they were like this from the factory.
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