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Old 06-19-2013, 08:48 PM   #15
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Yeah I am cool with that. I plan to boondock quite a bit so every little bit counts...
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:39 PM   #16
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Last night I had a break through with the book: RV Electrical Systems

I am not sure if the book got better or the glass of Jameson was helping my learning curve but something finally clicked last night. I can say that I am starting to understand the DC Electrical System. I now have a new list of things I know about DC Electrical Systems in RVs.

1. When not plugged in to Shore Power, the battery supplies DC current.

2. When plugged in to Shore Power, the Converter/Charger supplies the DC power and simultaneously charges the batteries.

3. Both the Battery Bank and the Converter/Charger are run into the DC Distribution Panel or DC Fuse Panel.

4. DC Current then runs out to the circuits. Each Circuit is protected by a blade style or glass tube fuse.

5. The Wire for each DC circuit needs to be a high enough gauge to provide the amps needed for the device it is powering. The full circuit length must be calculated to determine this.

6. The fuse protecting the circuit must be just higher than the amps of the devices on the circuit totaled. It also must not be higher than the wire on the circuit.

I feel like I am getting close to rewiring the DC side of the trailer... If anyone sees any glaring mistakes, feel free to correct me. Also, if I missed something important, let me know...

Pretty soon I will be able to tackle this.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:39 PM   #17
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That sounds pretty good. 1 suggestion since you are rewiring it would be a good idea to switch to blade type fuses, they are less vulnerable to corrosion and are easier to find when your on the road.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #18
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Yup. I definitely want to swap to the blade type fuses. Any recommendations on a new fuse panel? I was considering something like this Converter/Fuse Panel.

Anyone have any experience with it? I like the all in one look and I can mount it somewhere useful, as opposed to the PO's placement directly next to the plumbing and leaks...
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:40 PM   #19
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Remember that if you move the converter and/or fuse block far from the battery, you'll need heavy-gauge wires to run to the battery because of the longer run. That combo device seems like a nice choice if you're going to replace the 120v breaker panel as well.

My Argosy24 has the converter on the floor in the bathroom closet... about a foot from the city water inlet. The 120v breaker panel is higher up in the same closet.

If you're keeping the existing 120v panel and want separate devices, this fuse block should do the trick. (It's available from VTS as well, and available with more circuits if you need that.) That fuse block is what's installed in my trailer and has been faultless in my experience.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:45 PM   #20
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Yeah my original setup was exactly how you describe. I hate it being there because it is awkward to get my 6'4" body in there in the event of an outage. I would prefer to keep it in that closet but higher up on the wall, maybe at waist level or so...So about 4 feet off the ground. This way I can have easy access at anytime...

I have seen a lot of people using that other fuse block. Must be a good one...
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabbey1 View Post
Yeah my original setup was exactly how you describe. I hate it being there because it is awkward to get my 6'4" body in there in the event of an outage. I would prefer to keep it in that closet but higher up on the wall, maybe at waist level or so...So about 4 feet off the ground. This way I can have easy access at anytime...

I have seen a lot of people using that other fuse block. Must be a good one...
My fuse block is about 3' off the deck, on the wall of the bathroom closet near the 120v breaker box instead of next to the converter on the floor. I'm surprised to find that I don't have a photo showing that.

If you want to wall-mount that combo unit you'll have to build it some sort of box, I think... the converter assembly looks like it sticks out several inches to the back, and would need airflow. Usually they're mounted on the outer face of furniture and take up some of the interior space (that is how I see them installed in newer trailers where they're original equipment.)
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:13 PM   #22
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Sounds good. Although I am trying to keep the trailer aesthectically similar to the original 1976 look, I am going to redesign some of the storage space, specifically that bathroom closet. It only had one shelf and a rack for clothes to hang. Seemed pointless to me... I am going to add 3-4 shelves so hopefully I can work a face panel in somehow.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #23
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I wouldn't have thought of it but I recently read here on the forum about marine wire for re-doing the 120v side of the trailer. Standard household romex cable is a solid core wire. Fine for house construction but maybe not so for boats and RV's. Anyhow, something to think about if your plans include the 120v renovations. OH Yeah, it's available from West Marine. If like anything else for boats check with your bank loan officer before buying.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:04 PM   #24
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Crabbey1,

A 12 volt wiring chart show that for a 15 amp circuit you can run 11 ft with a 12 gauge wire. Anything over 11 ft, they show to use a 10 gauge wire. 12 Volt Wiring Distance and Gauge Chart

In my 34fter I know I have some 10 gauge wiring for some of my 12 volt runs.

Also, thanks for the link for the panel. I will have to get one for my 54 Cruiser.

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Old 06-21-2013, 04:29 PM   #25
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Thanks Sphere guy, I noticed on a couple charts that 12 gauge wouldn't be large enough... I mean, if I have a run to the front of the trailer that is easily 20 ft round trip...
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