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Old 07-26-2006, 10:55 PM   #1
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1970 31' Sovereign
Denham Springs , Louisiana
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Tail lights for '70 Sovereign

I just ordered new lenses from Vintage trailer supply, but I need a source for the cans inside the housing. The latest thread I found on the subject was from 2003. I yhink I can drill out the rivets to get the old one out and the spring socket looks standard, but it would be nice to know where to get replacements in case I booger one up. Any info?
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Old 07-27-2006, 05:26 AM   #2
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On my '73, they were in pretty good shape. I was able to clean them up, POR-15 them, and reinstall. There may be a supplier out there somewhere, but if you can't find one, try a local sheet metal shop. They're not really all that complicated to make (at least the '73 model year aren't).

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Old 07-27-2006, 08:40 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
They're not really all that complicated to make (at least the '73 model year aren't).

Jim
In that case, I'll take 2. send 'em COD.



The one I have problems with is so badly rusted in place, I can't get it out of the socket. its stuck in there good. prying along the lip will just destroy it, so it'll never go back in. I don't think I'll be able to get it out of there without removing the bathroom. But, its just the reverse light, so it isn't actually "necessary".

Gregg, I believe the actual light fixture is no longer made. The lense was used on other fixtures, which are still made...hence, you can get the lense.

Inland Andy (Inland RV) has been trying to find a suitable replacement...I think he has posted that he has an LED type fixture that will fit in the hole. I don't know the manufacturer or model, though. I wish I knew a local source, as it is *extremely* expensive to ship things from California.
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Old 07-27-2006, 08:13 PM   #4
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My fixtures look brand new from about 7 o'clock to about 5 o'clock, but that portion at 6 o'clock os pretty rusted. That happens to be where the socket is. I haven't tested the sockets yet, but I would be srprised if they work. Maybe I can epoxy new sockets into place.
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gparker
My fixtures look brand new from about 7 o'clock to about 5 o'clock, but that portion at 6 o'clock os pretty rusted. That happens to be where the socket is. I haven't tested the sockets yet, but I would be srprised if they work. Maybe I can epoxy new sockets into place.
Exactly the problem & solution with mine. The sockets rusted pretty badly, so I cut them out and epoxied in new ones from NAPA. I also had to run a separate ground directly off the body of the socket to the rivet that holds the can to the light fixture. Epoxy got in the way of a good ground.

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Old 07-29-2006, 07:08 PM   #6
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1973 31' Excella 500
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I had an old 1971 25 footer and the rear light were shot. It took some rigging to get the lights working properly. The outer housing was in good shape but the light cups were completely rusted. I too sheet aluminum and copied the design using only hand tools including tabs for the screws that held the lens. Light sockets were from an auto store riveted to the housing for the ground, no extra wire. Also had the opportunity to align the fiber optic system that transmits signals to the road side for the driver to see at night. The whole unit - buckets and housing was reattached to the trailer with stainless screws in the trough on the edge of the housing. That part was not nearly original but the best I could do. I then masked the unit and trailer and applied silicone for waterproofing. I had the trailer for 8 years and never had to spend any mor time on the tail lights.

A little work but a lot of satisfaction.

Joe
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:08 AM   #7
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70s Tail light Restoration Solution

After much gnashing of teeth with the Overlander, I decided to completely replace my tail light housings in the Sovereign with new "cans" from Trucklite.

While exact replacements are not available, I found that the Trucklite (SignalStat) TL 3710 can be modified and made to work quite nicely.

Here are the pics.

Total cost for tail lights and back-ups: $80

(Ordered from TH Evans truck supply here in Athens, GA but am sure they can be found elsewhere).

I also "polished" the housing assembly while it was removed with the 3m quick disks on angle grinder.
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:53 AM   #8
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Replacement tail lights.

We have replacement LED tail lights for the 4 1/8" tail light bezel openings.

Hook up the wires, seal the case in place and your done.

No modifications, no more rust, no more headaches.

Brighter in the day than the originals are at night.

Andy
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:57 AM   #9
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looks like a near-perfect solution. now if I could only get the old can out of the housing.... anyone got any thoughts on that?

looks like your housing was removed before; mine has no holes in it, and I'd hate to put them in there. I think its blind-riveted from behind.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:14 AM   #10
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Chuck,

You are correct, the assembly is riveted from the inside.

You should be able to drill out the rivets which hold the housings in place from the outside, it's just aggravating. (Be careful of the fiber optics if you have them.)

LEDs would be nice, but with 7 kids and a limited budget, the 1-1/2 it took to modify the 4 housings was worth the savings. Even though I sealed the housings with vulkem, I'm sure they'll eventually rust again. (But probably not for at least 15 years!)
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:25 AM   #11
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so...those new light "cans" are metal? they look like plastic... or are they just painted gray?

I don't want to try to drill out the whole housing...especially since my only problem is one bad reverse light. the stop/turn/running lights work fine...if it ain't broke....
but that one bad reverse light just bugs me.
I drilled out the pop rivets that hold the can in place, but its still stuck in there good. I was thinking that I need to get it out in one piece, so I can attach a light socket to it and re-install, but perhaps I can just tear it out by whatever means necessary, seeing as there is a replacement "can" that'll fit into the hole.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:30 AM   #12
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[QUOTE=chuck]so...those new light "cans" are metal?

Our LED replacements are sealed plastic.

No more worries.

Andy
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:57 PM   #13
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andy do you have tail lights for a 1971 ambassador with bulb ?
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:33 PM   #14
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andy do you have tail lights for a 1971 ambassador with bulb ?
We have LED replacements that still work with the tail light monitor system.

Andy
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:57 AM   #15
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Vintage Trailer Supply has remade these in aluminum - I've got them on my list of things to replace but they are a little pricy.
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:32 AM   #16
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andy do you have tail lights for a 1971 ambassador with bulb ?
Sorry, but we gave those cans up for the sealed LED tail lights, several years ago.

More brilliance, longer lasting, easy to install, no more worries about rust, still can use the tail light monitor system, and .........cheaper.

Andy
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:19 PM   #17
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Sorry, but we gave those cans up for the sealed LED tail lights, several years ago.

More brilliance, longer lasting, easy to install, no more worries about rust, still can use the tail light monitor system, and .........cheaper.

Andy
Andy - will these LED replacements also work for the scare light on a '73 Tradewind?
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:23 PM   #18
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Andy - will these LED replacements also work for the scare light on a '73 Tradewind?
The scare light is very different from the tail light.

But there is a LED bulb available for the scare light.

Andy
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