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Old 12-13-2014, 11:30 AM   #15
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We carry both the 30 impound 50 amp TRC portable surge guards so we have the appropriate one for the power pedestal that is available. The digital display reflects the loads in amps and on the 50 amp model shows the load per leg which has allowed me to have each air conditioner on separate legs for load balancing.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:03 PM   #16
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At one time we owned a fiver. We stayed at a reputable CG and plugged into their site pole. BLAM! $5000.00 in damages with fried wiring and destroyed appliances.

The owner had an electrician check the wiring of the pole immediately, and he found no "problem" ! (?)

We had a $500.00 deductible.

Now we not only use a portable surge protector at all times, but I check the polarity and voltage/ amperage of every pole where we plug in.

We also use a digital monitor ( shown above) inside the unit because many CG's cannot supply consistently correct voltage.

Remember too that a thunderstorm can be five miles + away from you, but still represent a real threat via lightening.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:32 PM   #17
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So we use the aforementioned surge guard, and when we're actually drawing on a 30 amp feed, we also use this voltage regulator: http://www.amazon.com/Technology-Res...dp/B00A0RANJ6/

They also make a 50-amp version. It's quite a brick, but we like the extra protection - it could save our heat pump from low-voltage damage. This item boosts voltage by as much as 10% (e.g. from 95 volts) before it gives up, turns off the power to your rig and waits for better conditions before resuming the power feed.

The Progressive solution may be more cost-effective since it protects both against surges and low voltage, but we didn't know about it then.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:42 PM   #18
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In May 2013 I plugged into power at an RV park in Alberta Canada. Two hours later while preparing dinner my microwave quit working. Long story short, I only had battery power. Every RV repair I called said two weeks before I could get repair. I was enroute Alaska and didn't want to waste two weeks. A repair facility near Edmonten agreed to take me in the next day. The manager of the RV park found a short in his electrical box.
The rear of the plug where you attach the power cord was fried. Of coure there was not enough slack in the wires to simply change the plug. The tech had to beat out the backs of the cabinets in the vanity to feed enough slack to attach the new plug.
Five hours and $600 later I was back on the road.
I now have a high end surge protecter.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:39 PM   #19
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If you have expensive electronics that could be damaged with a voltage spike, buy a good surge protector. You may also consider getting a conditioner/filter that keeps the needed volts and amps at a near constant. They are somewhat pricey. Its all about how well you want to care for your sensitive electronics.
Surge protectors DO NOT remedy voltage drop. It's Bad news for AC compressor, Fan motors etc. Remember that the closer to the end of the line in a RV park, having campers on the same run using their equipment at full load can cause an undetectable drop that can heat things up. A hand held VOM is essential to "see" what is going on.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:59 PM   #20
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"Surge protectors DO NOT remedy voltage drop"

They don't remedy, they PREVENT damage.


EMS-PT30C
High/Low Voltage Protection:
Whenever AC power falls below 104 volts, or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. The EMS will monitor the power and once the AC power rises above 104 volts, or below the 132 volt level, the time delay indicator flashes for the preset time and then automatically restores power to the RV.
Time Delay for A/C Compressor:
If the AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault condition, the built-in time delay is activated. There is 136-second (02:16) time delay.
3-Mode Surge Protection:
This feature provides full surge protection L-N, L-G, and N-G. Total Joule rating is 1790, 44,000A surge current. Response time of <1 nano second.
Surge Indicator:
In the event of a power surge, and the surge protector circuit is damaged within the EMS, L-N or L-G, the digital display error code will read E-10. This indicates the EMS needs to be serviced.
Reverse Polarity Protection:
If AC power is a reverse polarity condition, the EMS will not allow power to the RV and the error code will read E-1.
Open Neutral Protection:
If AC power has an open neutral condition, the display will not light, and the EMS will not allow power to the RV.
Open Ground Protection:
If AC power has an open ground condition, the EMS will read an error code of E-2 and power will not be allowed to the RV.
AC Frequency Protection:
If AC power frequency deviates +/- 9 hertz from 60 cycles per second, the EMS will shut down power. An error code of E-7 will be displayed when the frequency is high; and an error code will be displayed when frequency is low.
Accidental 240V Protection:
If 240 volts is detected when plugging into AC power, the EMS will NOT allow power to the RV. If this condition occurs while power is applied to the RV, the EMS shuts off power instantly. The display will read the voltage and E-3 for the error. (NEVER BYPASS THE EMS WHEN THIS OCCURS.)
Display:
Continuously scrolls all of the AC power information, including voltage, current, frequency, error codes and previous errors. Each reading is displayed for two (2) seconds.

Semper-fi

Bob
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:15 PM   #21
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Bob, it was less costly for me to read the forums when you were laying low. Now I have to get one of these since the stuff you use always makes so much sense to me. Hope you are shovelled out. Jim


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Old 12-13-2014, 07:57 PM   #22
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We use the EMS-HW30C 30 Amp Hardwired unit which has a slight hum when operating so placement is a consideration. Also use the TRC Digital Monitor just to keep an eye on the power from time to time due to work addiction. Plus it gives another readout on a downstream circuit. The absolute best protection available is to not having your sensitive equipment plugged in at all. Other than that there are many devices out there to suit your needs based on what you want to protect. When at home and a storm is near we unplug all electronics we don't want to lose except a sacrificial cheap TV to watch the weather. Then I leave to go battle the storm. When we leave on trips we unplug the same stuff. Don't forget about any hardwired cable tv and phone lines either, unplug em too. A lot of calls post storm have to deal with blown out cable tv and phone boxes. On the road I check every pedestal before hooking up. Not paranoid about the power but treat it like any other routine task for RVing.
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Old 12-13-2014, 08:43 PM   #23
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My thinking. A power monitoring/surge protection unit isn't cheap. Mine was $220. But it's cheaper than an AC unit, cheaper than a fridge. It's insurance. Expensive if you don't need it. Cheap if you do.
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:14 PM   #24
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By one before you plug into any power source ASAP.
Recently, I had a power surge and/or lightening strike the destroyed the following: Ground Fault Circuit Breaker, Microwave, Converter (on a different breaker that also would not reset until the converter was replaced), Water Pump, MircoPulse Monitor including two sensors, and Solar System repair. The total including labor was around $2,000. When I think of the two heat pumps, furnace, all lighting, 2 TVs and strero, antena booster, hot water heater, refrigerator, tounge and stabilizer jacks, propane sensors, and batteries x 4. I feel real fortunate more damage was not done. Lightening can do strange things like damage disconnected equipment and jump all over the place. When I was flying for a living, I can remember lightening hitting one fiberglas wing tip and going out the other with almost invisable holes left behind in both fiberglass wing tips. Many times we would get hit and no visible damage could be found. However, one time a hit caused a fuel vent fire during descent. The damage was not discovered until after landing. The fire had starved itself of oxygen later on during the descent. So much for Faraday cages Airstreamers. Is it better to place plastic under the tounge and stabilizer jacks or let them rest on the ground? Is the AC ground connected to frame as the DC? If so the trailer would be grounded through the power pedastal. Bad grounds can also cause power surges. Thoughs?
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:47 PM   #25
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So is the concensus that a portable unit at the pedistal is best? That way the airstream 30 amp plug is protected? I do like that a hardwired unit is not out in the open for theft.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
So is the concensus that a portable unit at the pedistal is best? That way the airstream 30 amp plug is protected? I do like that a hardwired unit is not out in the open for theft.
I use the pedestal unit for convenience. They make a device that will allow it to be locked to the cable.

I could see hardwired in some cases, if I had ready access to the power cable and there was plenty of room. Regardless, if it gives up it's life to save your trailer you will have to replace it. A portable unit is a lot easier to replace IMHO.

Aaron
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Flower View Post
Bob, it was less costly for me to read the forums when you were laying low. Now I have to get one of these since the stuff you use always makes so much sense to me. Hope you are shovelled out. Jim


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Jim,

I'm sorry....the DW always said I was an expensive date.



Weather.....It's pretty normal for WNY.

Nov 20 2014....lot's and lot's

Nov 27 2014...not so much.

Bob
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:23 AM   #28
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What ever electrical protection you purchase it should cover not only power surges but also recognize wiring faults in the source and be able to shut off power if voltage is too low. Sometimes it is advantageous to be able to show an RV Park person the fault right on a monitor and get a different space with a good electrical source.


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