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01-23-2017, 12:21 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
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Solder Seal vs. Scotch-Lock
Solder Seal vs. Scotch-Lock
I know that Scotch-Lock is popular for trailers, but, how do we feel about Solder Seal? Looks promising.....but.........let the Opinion Fiesta begin!
https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connec...wire+connector
Eric
__________________
1972 33' Streamline Emperor Crown Imperial
1949 30' Spartan Royal Mansion
2012 Nissan Armada
Most of China
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01-23-2017, 12:40 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Only used them once. Conceptually head and shoulders above a scotchlock, but I had trouble getting the temp right to melt the solder without damaging the heat shrink. Probably a technique thing that I could practice through.
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-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-23-2017, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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I wouldn't use scotch locks.
I have had good luck with regular soldered joints in conjunction with glue-lined
shrink tubes.
The solder-seal connectors look good but I have no experience with them, I would have thought it might be difficult to flow the solder without messing up the insulation due to too much heat - but as stated, no experience with them. They seem to get good reviews. I'd like to give them a try.
Brian
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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01-31-2017, 07:47 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,566
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I have used these on race car applications, obviously an extreme vibration environment. They worked well with no failures. They do take some experience to properly apply. I found that you had to heat them up slowly with low heat from a hot air gun to bring them slowly up to temperature, so that the solder would flow properly and the heat would not burn the tubing (just shrink it).
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DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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01-31-2017, 08:40 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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I would not use a Scotch-Lok connector if you paid me to take them! Also not allowed in any marine connection. Solder introduces a second or even third metal to a connection with the possibilities of associated corrosion which is not necessary.
A quality heat shrink connector properly crimped and tested to the 20lb. pull test will give you a corrosion free connection that will last indefinitely when correctly installed. ABYC sets their standards because the work.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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01-31-2017, 08:58 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2016 30' International
Florence
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
I would not use a Scotch-Lok connector if you paid me to take them! Also not allowed in any marine connection. Solder introduces a second or even third metal to a connection with the possibilities of associated corrosion which is not necessary.
A quality heat shrink connector properly crimped and tested to the 20lb. pull test will give you a corrosion free connection that will last indefinitely when correctly installed. ABYC sets their standards because the work.
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Yes, but a heat shrink connector is going to "introduce a second or even third metal" as the metal in the connector won't likely match the metal of your wire.
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02-01-2017, 06:23 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshjack
Yes, but a heat shrink connector is going to "introduce a second or even third metal" as the metal in the connector won't likely match the metal of your wire.
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Uhhhh? How so?????? Copper wire with a copper connector (perhaps tinned to prevent corrosion....just like the marine wire that it is securing) crimped to it wrapped in adhesive filled plastic heat shrink? Where are the 'other' metals????
Perhaps you could enlighten the ABYC standards committee about this????
You are all free to use what ever method of cable termination that you prefer, as the USA is STILL a free country. Organizations like the ABYC exist to promote best standards practice in their respective industries, and marine electrical safety is one off their missions.
I see home made solutions to problems every day and the some will work....for a while.....but are no where near the professional results achieved by following best practice standards. Safety is not to be taken lightly.....but it's your rig and your life......use all the solid conductor wire, solder and wire nuts you want..........ENJOY!!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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02-01-2017, 07:34 AM
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#8
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Rivets?
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
...A quality heat shrink connector properly crimped and tested to the 20lb. pull test will give you a corrosion free connection that will last indefinitely when correctly installed...
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+1 on quality crimped connections. If the connection is not exposed to exterior environment I don't have a concern using a simple crimp connector. If water, dirt, etc. are to be encountered then the addition of a sealed, crimped joint is the way to go IMO.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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02-01-2017, 07:56 AM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
2016 30' International
Florence
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Uhhhh? How so?????? Copper wire with a copper connector (perhaps tinned to prevent corrosion....just like the marine wire that it is securing) crimped to it wrapped in adhesive filled plastic heat shrink? Where are the 'other' metals????
Perhaps you could enlighten the ABYC standards committee about this????
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I'm not arguing standards or that you don't know what you are doing. But an individual without your experience is going to read your blanket statement and take it at face value.
You can buy steel/nickel connectors, aluminum connectors, tinned copper, etc. So while you might make sure you have a copper connector with copper wire, not everyone will know to make the distinction.
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02-01-2017, 08:55 AM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
I would not use a Scotch-Lok connector if you paid me to take them! Also not allowed in any marine connection. Solder introduces a second or even third metal to a connection with the possibilities of associated corrosion which is not necessary.
A quality heat shrink connector properly crimped and tested to the 20lb. pull test will give you a corrosion free connection that will last indefinitely when correctly installed. ABYC sets their standards because the work.
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Lewster - Could you provide a link to the connector product you use? Thanks!
All - Thanks for the varying opinions! For my next act, I will ask what the best tow vehicle is.
__________________
1972 33' Streamline Emperor Crown Imperial
1949 30' Spartan Royal Mansion
2012 Nissan Armada
Most of China
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02-01-2017, 05:26 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericpeltier
Lewster - Could you provide a link to the connector product you use? Thanks!
All - Thanks for the varying opinions! For my next act, I will ask what the best tow vehicle is.
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I buy my connectors from several sources, but my main source is Waytek Wire. They do have minimums for ordering, which are never a problem for me but the casual user might wind up with an excessive amount of connectors.
Any products from Ancor or Raytech will provide you with ABYC compliant connections....provided that you use a proper crimping tool. Amazon has multiple vendors for these products in smaller quantities.
I also only use heat shrink connectors, as a quick blast from the heat gun is definitely worth sealing the connector against any type of normal corrosion.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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