Solar Wiring Through Fridge Vent - Best Practice?

[Vantair]

This may help. These fridge vent access pics are from our 25ft 2005 Intnl CCD SS (RB). When replacing the fridge, ran some "green" Cat5 and low voltage cable up and out for a rear IP camera while all open.

Notice the dark rubber insulation stop where fridge slides up to and seals with the roof vent fridge side of the glued in place ply backing

Fridge side of the plybacking see lots of dusty looped RCA audio, video and thicker D.C. leads assuming solar prewire stubs. A dark plastic flex with some additional wiring leading up into ceiling near vent.

Sorry, 2-5 pics upload sideways due to size but hope this helps.

[pteck]

Yup, about how mine looked.

I added a breaker/shutoff for the PV panels here.


I also added a few things not solar related while I was back there:
1) Fridge fan with snap disc thermostat set to come on at 90*


2) I opened up the upper cabinet backing, and replaced it with a hinged panel. Important to note that the fridge vent compartment should be sealed, and I added gaskets all my hinged backing. So I can have future access to run anything, or do maintenance on the fan for example.

[Vantair]

Pteck,
Good photos and add-ons.
By chance Do you know what the plastic black flex and wires go to ?

[pteck]

I noticed the black flex conduit too in your pics. Thought you had added custom equipment to your rig.

I don't have that in mine. The black wire coming into my vent is the wires I added coming from the solar panel.

What other equipment do you have on your roof?

[DreamStreamr]

Originally Posted by gklott

What's the max temp in the refrigerator vent?
73/gus

Our 2004 Dometic RM2662 boiler is specified to run 180-190 degrees. All the 2600 through 3600 series are same give or take 5 degrees. The boiler is insulated from the fridge rear area so the max temp in the refrigerator vent is always going to be less.

We've run cables through the fridge chute with and without removing the fridge. Without removing it involves popping off the roof cap, running a 1/4" fish tape from above down to a helper on the ground. Pull at least two pull strings up from below. Secure one of them top and bottom for future use. Pull the cable carefully down with the other string. Helper pulls, you carefully feed cable down.

Easier and neater job with fridge pulled. Can choose exactly the cable route, can attach with cable clamps. Just neater overall. Adds an hour for fridge removal/replacement, and adds 1/2 hour or less for routing and attaching the cable.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by DreamStreamr

Our 2004 Dometic RM2662 boiler is specified to run 180-190 degrees. All the 2600 through 3600 series are same give or take 5 degrees. The boiler is insulated from the fridge rear area so the max temp in the refrigerator vent is always going to be less.

Thanks. We have the RM2852, which is a terrible refrigerator. Replacing the 2852 with either a Dometic RM3962 or going to the Fitrifrigo DP2600IXD4-F. Current plan is the DP2600, which eliminates the temperature issue.

Am using Ancor 120710 6 awg duplex cable, which is rated at 105C (220F). Wanted to make sure it would have a high enough temperature rating should we decide to go with the 3962.

73/gus

[lewster]

gklott,

I would suggest the Vitrifrigo DP-2600 as your refer choice. It is a Danfoss -compressor fridge and will give you much more usable cold air in the fridge box than any RV-type fridge.

Also, depending on your solar choices, I might use 4AWG cable, just to be certain that you have enough cable for perhaps the 6 panels that will eventually be paced on your roof. Pull the cable thru your fridge vent (after removing the roof cap and screen and running it into a combiner box from AM Solar), place a hole in the bottom of the fridge area to run the cable thru to the inside and you have a perfect path for the cable.

Just a thought!

Originally Posted by gklott

Thanks. We have the RM2852, which is a terrible refrigerator. Replacing the 2852 with either a Dometic RM3962 or going to the Fitrifrigo DP2600IXD4-F. Current plan is the DP2600, which eliminates the temperature issue.

Am using Ancor 120710 6 awg duplex cable, which is rated at 105C (220F). Wanted to make sure it would have a high enough temperature rating should we decide to go with the 3962.

73/gus

[Vantair]

Originally Posted by pteck

I noticed the black flex conduit too in your pics. Thought you had added custom equipment to your rig.

I don't have that in mine. The black wire coming into my vent is the wires I added coming from the solar panel.

What other equipment do you have on your roof?

For now, just a hardwired IP rear view camera in protective UV raceway. Plan on solar soon. Other 2 IP cams route through the front tilt window. All cams have Cat 5 and spare 4 cond low voltage cable. From rear /front sides of rig down and over into front lounge converter cubby. All cams plug into a hidden 4channel digital DVR. With the R/L side view cams records the whole trip all side driving or camped for short times or away from rig. 2 months video storage ! Oh, also pushes all live video while driving via WiFi to Truck cab ipad /iPhone.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by lewster

gklott, I would suggest the Vitrifrigo DP-2600 as your refer choice.

Agree - that is our first choice. Ran new 10/2 AWG Ancor duplex cable into the refrigerator area to support the DP-2600, distance about 8 ft. from the new load bus refrigerator breaker.

Originally Posted by lewster

I might use 4AWG cable, just to be certain that you have enough cable for perhaps the 6 panels that will eventually be placed on your roof.

Understand your recommendation. on 4 AWG.

Haven't finalized the module-string design for our six 125-W Solbian solar panels. Using the Morningstar String calculator, we can use either:
- 2 modules in 3 strings, or
- 1 module in 6 strings.

Cable run distance from EATON CCBF06 rooftop combiner to the MorningStar GFPD/MPPT-60 is ~22 ft.

Using ABYC E-11 Table IX,
- for 2 modules, 3 strings, (32VDC table, 25A), 6 AWG should be more than adequate for < 3% voltage drop.
- for 1 module, 6 strings, (24V table, 40A), 6 AWG should be still be OK for < 3% voltage drop.

Plus I already have a 50 ft. spool of Ancor 6 AWG duplex cable - which AIN'T CHEAP. :-)

Originally Posted by lewster

Just a thought!

Really appreciate your advice and commentary on all the threads your participate in. You add excellent "thoughts".

73/gus

[pteck]

Originally Posted by Vantair

For now, just a hardwired IP rear view camera in protective UV raceway.

That's my next project. What model IP cam are you using in the rear?

[Vantair]

Originally Posted by pteck

That's my next project. What model IP cam are you using in the rear?

Very sorry...escapes me. It's an odd-named "Pandacam" i happened upon 3yrs ago. Only one with 12VDC, Cat5 POE, dual analog output 1080p/1920, Night IR and swivel cam ball with some decent lower profile aerodynamics i could find after much research. Used light tacked adhesive (no drilling) for mounting. Painted original white outer to mandatory silver.

Nowadays, any suitable exterior vandal rated 12vdc or IP cam with acceptable articulation/appearance could work. New models on market daily.

Figured as these got better, smaller, cheaper we'd upgrade using same wiring but very happy with performance in the exterior harsh conditions.