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Old 05-20-2008, 08:21 AM   #1
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smoking power cord

what would make my shore power cable head smoke at the utility post? the 'head' actually melted... frayed wiring?
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:26 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
what would make my shore power cable head smoke at the utility post? the 'head' actually melted... frayed wiring?
Several things can cause that problem.

1. Dirty connections.

2. Overloaded circuit.

3. Bad cable connector.

4. Bad socket connector

5. Inadequate feed wire size.

Your dealing with a fire hazard.

Andy
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:27 AM   #3
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Smile Hi

Was it raining? Probably loose conection in your plug. It happen to me in Alaska during a rain storm. The4 only cure is to replace the plug. Regards from Russell in hot and sunny Tucson Az.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
The4 only cure is to replace the plug
Replace the plug AND trim back the wire to a point where there is no evidence of conductors having been overheating, 1 to 3 inches depending on what you find.

Preforming the 'hooks' to fit under the plug screws, inserting and tightening them, then loosening and lightly tinning just the wire areas compressed under the screw using common rosin-core solder can help them last longer in wet weather - also a very very thin 'wipe' coat of automotive spark plug silicone dielectric grease on plug internal metals will keep oxygen away from the conductors that can make good conductivity decrease over time, even a thin wipe on the plug prongs will help keep a layer of oxide from forming that will insert resistance (thus heat) on the half of the connection you have some control over. It's still a gamble what the plug socket condition you find at your stops will be!

If you do solder the copper strands together it has to be anchored by the plug cover since any continued flexing on that tail of wire will likely break strands (2 of 50, then 4 of 50, etc.) where the solder coat begins, copper is so soft it acts brittle when all the flex is focused at the edge of a solder joint.

Also - since it's all-weather wiring the copper strands may be pretreated with some anti-corrosive oil that makes soldering more difficult but not impossible. The pretreated strands are protected inside the insulation sleeve but that coating does not last once the insulation is removed...
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:19 AM   #5
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Smoking Head Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
what would make my shore power cable head smoke at the utility post? the 'head' actually melted... frayed wiring?

When I started the rebuild of my '78 Sovereign I found a "gift" that one of the PO's left - the neutral and hot leads were switched at the plug

First pic is the shore line plug with the white and black leads reversed from their proper position. When looking at a 30 amp plug from the rear the hot (black) wire should be to the left.

Also note the corrosion - this plug had definitely gotten wet somewhere along the way....

A newer unit should not have exhibited such degradation. However, by someone pulling on the wire and not grabbing the head of the plug for a direct withdrawal the wire to plug connections or the internals of the wires in the cable to head area may have been damaged.







The picture below shows the worn (exposed) shore power line - the white conductor was actually "hot" due to the leads being reversed in the power plug above. Two of the three conductor lines inside the shore power line were worn through to the copper wire, exposing the white "neutral" and the green "ground" wires to a possible short to the trailer. The worn section was in the area where the power line penetrated the service trunk at the rear of the trailer.




For additional pics and commentary see post #18 in the thread

'78 31' Sovereign

I have recently replaced the service cable with about 50' of #6 fine strand wire.
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:05 PM   #6
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see Melting the plug for what Sean at Our Odyssey found at a couple of Oregon State parks.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:58 PM   #7
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Are your axles rated for the extra weight?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH
... I have recently replaced the service cable with about 50' of #6 fine strand wire. ...
#6, eh?

50 feet... hmm ... sounds heavy, dude.

Are you going to start back at the gym in order to be able to deploy the cable?

I'm kidding, Dennis. Look for a little karma to prove it.

Tom
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW View Post
#6, eh?
50 feet... hmm ... sounds heavy, dude.
Are you going to start back at the gym in order to be able to deploy the cable? Tom

.....it's the only exercise I get anymore.......



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Old 07-02-2008, 07:20 AM   #9
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All electrical components and wiring harnesses depend on proper circuit functioning, which is the transmission of charged ions by retention of the visible spectral manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes electrical circuits work. Don't be fooled by scientists and engineers talking about excited electrons and the like. Smoke is the key to all things electrical.

We know this to be true because every time one lets the smoke out of an electrical circuit, it stops working. This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing. For example, if one places a large copper bar across the terminals of a battery, prodigious quantities of smoke are liberated and the battery shortly ceases to function. In addition, if one observes smoke escaping from an electrical component such as a Lucas voltage regulator, it will also be observed that the component no longer functions.

The logic is elementary and inescapable! The function of the wiring harness is to conduct the smoke from one device to another. When the wiring harness springs a leak and lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works right afterward.



Feeling humorous Today. Hope Your repair works out. Maybe this will help




Description

Have you inadvertantly let the smoke out of the wires on your classic British car? This, then, is the solution to your problem!

Here is presented for your perusal one Lucas Replacement Wiring Harness Smoke kit, P/N 530433, along with the very rare Churchill Tool 18G548BS adapter tube and metering valve. These kits were supplied surreptitiously to Lucas factory technicians as a trouble-shooting and repair aid for the rectification of chronic electrical problems on a plethora of British cars. The smoke is metered, through the fuse box, into the circuit which has released it's original smoke until the leak is located and repaired. The affected circuit is then rectified and the replacement smoke re-introduced. An advantage over the cheap repro smoke kits currently available is the exceptionally rare Churchill metering valve and fuse box adapter. It enables the intrepid and highly skilled British Car Technician to meter the precise amount of genuine Lucas smoke required by the circuit.

Unlike the cheap, far-eastern replacement DIYsmoke offered by the "usual suppliers", this kit includes a filter to ensure that all the smoke is of consistent size, It has been our experience in our shop that the reproduction Tiawanese smoke is often "lumpy", which will cause excessive resistance in our finely-engineered British harnesses and components. This is often the cause of failure in the repro electrical parts currently available, causing much consternation and misplaced cursing of the big three suppliers.

These kits have long been the secret weapon of the "Ultimate Authorities" in the trade, and this may be the last one available. Be forewarned, though, that it is not applicable to any British vehicle built after the discontinuing of bullet connectors, so you Range Rover types are still on your own...

This Genuine Factory Authorised kit contains enough smoke to recharge the entire window circuit on a 420 Jaguar, and my dear friend and advisor George Wolf of British Auto Specialty assures me that he can replace ALL the smoke in a W&F Barrett All-Weather Invalid Car(147 CC) with enough left over to test a whole box of Wind-Tone horns for escaped smoke. How much more of an endorsement do you need?

More, you say? Well, I once let the smoke out of the overdrive wiring on my friend Roger Hankey's TR3B, and was able to drive over 200 miles home from The Roadster Factory Summer Party by carefully introducing smoke into the failed circuit WITHOUT even properly repairing the leak. Another friend, Richard Stephenson, was able to repair the cooling fan circuit of his Series 1 E-type by merely replacing a fuse and injecting a small quantity of smoke back into the wires. So there!
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:30 AM   #10
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Replacement Smoke

Can you buy replacement smoke at a Hardware Store? Will Shrink Tubing contain it or leak smoke?
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:34 AM   #11
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Ohmygod, I need one of those Lucas tools for our MG!!

Lynn
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