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Old 01-30-2014, 08:12 PM   #1
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Wylie , Texas
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Shore power cord reroute?

Just looking for ideas on this. I think mine was correctly routed into my bumper box. However, when plugged in the bumper won't close flush due to cord in the way. I am working on gabbing a new bumper box, but would like for it to be able to stay closed all times.
Current idea is to install an outlet box on street side frame that will have access hole. Extension cords can plug up here and box can be closed for weather protection. Any other ideas?
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:36 PM   #2
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Our first AS had the cord in the bumper box and the cover had a "U" shaped cut out so the cover would close fully. Worked OK for us. I've seen some trailers that had a plug on the exterior and the cord would plug in. Nothing wrong with that but it has to be such that the heavy cord won't pull itself out.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:41 PM   #3
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The more connectors, the greater chance for problems with corrosion and corrosion leads to bad connections, heat and voltage drop.
Not sure what the issue is with the lid being slightly up when the cord is in use. Even with the lid closed completely the trunk will still get wet. The piano hinge is by no means water tight.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:02 PM   #4
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Well I was actually thinking of making it where the shore cord could be pulled through if either: the outlet was close enough to reach or outlet was so far away, extension cord needed a little help. But most often probably an in between plugged in together in the little box. I have also considered a small cutout on the frame so less water would go into the box from above rather than notching the cover. Partly, I feel it would look a little neater than protruding up out of the bumper.

Not adding an extra connection. In fact I am connected this way currently, with shore power plugged into my extension cord into shore power outlet. Just looking for different access and perhaps something better than just having cord connectors as exposed, sitting on the ground. Pictured is potential box candidate that would be possibly mounted street rear frame just ahead of bumper.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:55 AM   #5
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Can you post a picture of what you have now? Does the cord not fit in the factory notch in the cover?
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:07 AM   #6
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Here is a picture of my currently unassembled bumper sans notches + that box in proposed location. I just found that since the bumper curves forward at the ends it requires more forward placement of box than I had anticipated for it to open. Not really sold on it yet.
I apologize if the picture is turned. For some reason they attach twisted, but are upright on my phone.
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:21 AM   #7
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cord

On my 73 Tradewind (same bumper area) there is a a slotted hole on the bottom of the storage area the cord is fed through when plug in. John
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:43 AM   #8
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John. Do you have a picture? I'm beginning to think it makes more sense to just go with a simple hole and connect inside the bumper box instead of that outlet box and a connection outside. The idea really started about having the shore cord terminate were it would be like an outlet you plug extension directly into on the frame with kind of a snap-back cover. But since I didn't want to lose the length of the cord it morphed into the little box, which I now think is not really that great. Just would like to see how airstream notched the bumper for the cord so I can plan on doing the same. Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:49 PM   #9
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I'd have to take one and post it. The hole is on the left side, it is a round hole with a rubber ring in it, the rubber is slotted in a pie like fashion so the plug goes through/ keeps shut when not used. john
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:09 PM   #10
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Is that the correct lid for the rear compartment? I thought they were more like a one inch high box with aluminum end caps with the cutout for the cord, not flat like yours. Maybe I am thinking of a newer AS.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:39 PM   #11
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On my 68, the cord exits from the bumper trunk lid like yours. I have been using it for 4 years with no problems. A big rain gets the stuff wet in the bumper trunk open or closed so why worry about it. When I do have to use an extension chord (and I do often as a lot of state parks have the electric box in weird places), I just wrap the connectors in a plastic grocery bag and a little tape. I lay it under the trailer and on a piece of wood or something to keep water running on the pavement from getting things wet. Unfortunately we have had a lot of experience camping in the rain the last couple of years, no problems with the house plug and extension chord connection ever getting wet. I guess what I am saying is "simple is better". Don't make things overly complicated. KISS.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:35 PM   #12
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Well, do you want to do it right, or do you want to do it cheap?

If you want to do it cheap, just cut a slot in the lid of your bumper box and put a couple wraps of electrical tape around the cord where it goes through the box lid.

If you want to do it (what I consider) right, convert to a marine shore power setup with a detachable cord set. This will give you an idea what I mean.
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:09 AM   #13
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Mine has a notch in the bumper cover as shown in the attached pic.
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:49 AM   #14
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What I did

I have a 2001 Safari 25. I have a hole in the bottom of the bumper box with one of those plastic covers like you might see for a wiring hole on a desk, but larger. In order to use the power cord I had to pull enough through the hole to get to the campground box. That was a 2-person operation, one feeding and one pulling. I thought of putting a box on the outside where the service cord connects into the trailer wiring but that area is curved and would present a trim problem, plus I really didn't want to cut holes in my trailer. I bought a NEMA locking plug and socket set on Amazon, I think they were NEMA 12-30P and 12-30S, but not sure. I cut the cord inside the bumper and put the connector pair in line. When I want to hook up I take the colied cord out of the bumper box and push a foot or two up through the hole and connect it in. Much easier to do, one-person operation, and works like a champ. The area is reasonably well protected from the weather so I don't anticipate corrosion problems.

Al
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