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Old 02-19-2007, 07:05 PM   #1
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Shore power cord

The shore power cord on our '66 Tradewind ends/begins at the breaker box...snakes down the wall behind the bath closet into the cavity in the rear access panel. To reach the outside world and a power source it drops through a 3"-3 1/2" plastic drain pipe. So to utilize the cord I have to push and pull it DOWN through that pipe and the same to wheel it in. I would like to install a covered female connection somewhere on the outside skin. Can you clever people offer the best way to make this adaption? And are there any 'kits' available for this? The couple of SOBs I've had had a door to a compartment which the cord was coiled in. I think I would like something better than that.

Thanks,
Neil
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:18 PM   #2
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yes,

west marine sells 30 amp twist lock bulkhead style connectors with a stainless steel faceplate/cap.

john
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:18 PM   #3
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you have a link?
I would love to replace my grey plastic with somthing closer to the skin color.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:21 PM   #4
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Neil,
Even with an '84 model, I was not satisfied with the power cord exiting via the rear bumper. I changed ours to an external twist-lock receptacle with cover.
The process went something like this:
Went to a local commerical electrical supply house and looked at all their 30amp twist-lock exterior water proof receps. The one I selected was not on the shelf so it was ordered. Also picked up a 30amp plug to fit the recep. that would be installed on the trailer end of the existing cord.
Waited for recep. to arrive.
Once I had all the parts in hand I started at the main panel and disconnected the shore line.
Measured inside and out to find the right spot to bore a 2" hole thru the exterior and interior alum. (boring thru the skin was the only part of this process that made me nervous. I did not like drilling into the skin but with the right tools everything went fine)
Prewired the new 30A recep. with a short pig-tail for the connection to the main panel. Completed the exterior installation with weather proof cover.
Re-connected power supply that now comes from the new receptacle.
Installed the new 30A plug on the old end of the shore line cable and plugged her in.
Now we have a stand alone shore line cord that is rolled up and stored when not in use.
If you would like to see completed photos I can post in the next day or two.

em.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anholman
The shore power cord on our '66 Tradewind ends/begins at the breaker box...snakes down the wall behind the bath closet into the cavity in the rear access panel. To reach the outside world and a power source it drops through a 3"-3 1/2" plastic drain pipe. So to utilize the cord I have to push and pull it DOWN through that pipe and the same to wheel it in. ...The couple of SOBs I've had had a door to a compartment which the cord was coiled in. I think I would like something better than that.

Thanks,
Neil
Neil, there's plenty of room underneath the closet, next to the water heater for any contraption you want to install, you just have to cut a hole in your skin. I personally have no intention of adding any more holes to the 41 year old skin than I have to. I, too, hate the snake maneuver everytime I set up or tear down. My thought on what I will do some day is cut the cord so it is just long enough to hang out the hole and carry a 30 A extension cord coiled up on top of the Univolt or in the exterior compart, which is on the street side for us, assume it is for you. Then you just pop the cap off of your plastic pipe and from the outside just plug your cord in the plug that is hanging down. Simple, no skin cutting, and no snaking.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:28 PM   #6
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best and safest available

Neil:

You want to use the MARINCO line for this. It’s the one john hd is referring to.

It is standard in all current Airstreams and the best and safest available.

You can buy a “conversion kit” or parts separately from either West Marine or Camping World. Consult either or both of their catalogs.

The Marinco cord set features a locking ring that matches the outlet.

Sergei
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Neil, there's plenty of room underneath the closet, next to the water heater for any contraption you want to install, you just have to cut a hole in your skin. I personally have no intention of adding any more holes to the 41 year old skin than I have to. I, too, hate the snake maneuver everytime I set up or tear down. My thought on what I will do some day is cut the cord so it is just long enough to hang out the hole and carry a 30 A extension cord coiled up on top of the Univolt or in the exterior compart, which is on the street side for us, assume it is for you. Then you just pop the cap off of your plastic pipe and from the outside just plug your cord in the plug that is hanging down. Simple, no skin cutting, and no snaking.
I too would try not to punch any holes in the skin. If I do maybe in the corner or back near the bumper near where it is now. However, I like your idea of capping that pipe with a short cord inside. It would keep the AS's originality. Thanks, I will consider your suggestion.
Neil.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
yes,

west marine sells 30 amp twist lock bulkhead style connectors with a stainless steel faceplate/cap.

john
John, Smokeless provided pictures of your suggestion. This may be a little 'heavy' looking for my vintage. I did check out West Marine and they have one that caught my eye but it was a 50 amp. It was a chrome screw cap design. I appreciate your suggestion. Thanks,
Neil.
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1966 Trade Wind

1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid

1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empresley
Neil,
Even with an '84 model, I was not satisfied with the power cord exiting via the rear bumper. I changed ours to an external twist-lock receptacle with cover.
The process went something like this:
Went to a local commerical electrical supply house and looked at all their 30amp twist-lock exterior water proof receps. The one I selected was not on the shelf so it was ordered. Also picked up a 30amp plug to fit the recep. that would be installed on the trailer end of the existing cord.
Waited for recep. to arrive.
Once I had all the parts in hand I started at the main panel and disconnected the shore line.
Measured inside and out to find the right spot to bore a 2" hole thru the exterior and interior alum. (boring thru the skin was the only part of this process that made me nervous. I did not like drilling into the skin but with the right tools everything went fine)
Prewired the new 30A recep. with a short pig-tail for the connection to the main panel. Completed the exterior installation with weather proof cover.
Re-connected power supply that now comes from the new receptacle.
Installed the new 30A plug on the old end of the shore line cable and plugged her in.
Now we have a stand alone shore line cord that is rolled up and stored when not in use.
If you would like to see completed photos I can post in the next day or two.

em.
Em, your discription of your installation is very clear. Thanks. I am trying to keep the plug apparatus simple in design to not detract from the vintage appearance of my AS. Is the one you installed as such?
Neil.
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1971 Buick Centurion convertible
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:56 PM   #10
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Photos

The only thing left is a bead of Vulkem across the top to cover the foam seal. The gray plastic matched well with the exterior alum. Hardly noticeable.
Good luck with your project.

em.
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:59 PM   #11
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I used the one as shown at VTS:

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

Expensive, but well made. The part that gets weather is stainless steel and looks good on the trailer (even better after the trailer gets polished.) The one I installed replaced the broken original from 1959. I had the task of enlarging the hole in the skin and installing a new plywood backing block on the inside of the trailer.
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:59 PM   #12
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I bought the stainless-steel version of this from Vintage Trailer Supply who have it for $100 (but they're out of stock), although Star Marine Depot have it for $75. It's polished so it'd look better with a polished aluminium skin, but maybe too obtrusive with the duller silver of an unpolished or newer trailer.

This is it installed, but before cleaning up the sealant or polishing or even brushing off some dust, so excuse the mess:

There's a patch around it because there was already a hole in the skin here from the original water-fill inlet that was larger than I needed for the electrical inlet. But it also served to give the sheet-metal screws the inlet is attached with a bit more material to hold onto, as the cable's pretty heavy, or someone could trip over it. I also installed it next to a rib (in this case for the hatch below) for a bit of extra strength.

The inside part of the inlet will come at least 1-2" through the inner skin, so plan for that.

(Edit: r&kweber posted while I was composing with similar info. A plywood backing block would probably have been a good idea.)
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:47 PM   #13
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Here's a picture of the new Marinco inlet on my Tradewind.
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:20 AM   #14
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Great ideas

Yes, Thanks for all the great ideas and pictures of your installations. I am glad that I asked for imput on a seemingly simple project. You have made it much MORE simple for me. I probably would not have even considered the weight of the 30 amp cord hanging and tugging on the skin. Thanks again....now it's time for me to act on your suggestions. I have that area cleared as I am replacing some floor in there and better locate the Intellepower. I also want to address the shore water bib too.
Thank you and I will post pictures of my completed project.
Neil.
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