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Old 04-13-2005, 10:19 AM   #15
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Traveller,

Here is my list of possible 12V DC thingys. You want to decide if any of these will be included in your remodel. If you think you will add them in the future, I would put in wire and reserve fuse slots for these items:

lights
small 300w inverter (TV set, computer, etc.)
breakaway switch for brakes
water pump
powerjack
CO detector
LP gas detector
furnace controls/thermostat
furnace blower
macerator pump
refrigerator controls
water heater control, ignitor
power step
bathroom vent fan
kitchen vent fan
roof vent fans/fantastic fans
outside porch light, scare light
compartment lights
power taps for misc 12V DC appliances
spares (2)

You might never want some of these things, but its easier to pull wire for them while the walls are out.
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Old 04-13-2005, 12:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveller
This all kind of brings me back to my original reason for asking...

What types of things should I plan on using 12v and what things would be suited for 110?

So far, I can imagine using 12v for: water pump, furnace blower, 'dome' light, etc,

while I would imagine I'd use 110 for all other lights, A/C, a/c outlets, small appliances, etc....

How do modern campers allow for switching between 12v (on-board) battery power to 12v converted from 110?

or am I completely off base here?Thanks.
They use the Univolt, or a more modern equivalent, to power the 12v stuff, and keep the battery charged when running on 110v. There is really no reason to install 110v lighting, as you will have 12v lighting that you can use whether you are running on 12v or 110v. You can leave the 110v outlets in place, in case you need an extra light somewhere, as well as being able to operate other 110v appliances such as a coffee maker, or a television set.
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Old 10-25-2005, 02:28 PM   #17
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diagram for below

hi guys,

i have a '59 traveller as well... one state over! i'm almost to the wiring stage, and had a few questions i don't fully understand how the umbilical and the onboard batteries relate to one another. if i got this right, the lights, and majority of the trailer is all 12V, with the exception of the AC, and in some cases, the fridge. everything else runs off the batteries. when the trailer is plugged in, the inverter keeps the batteries charged, or, in the absence of batteries, provides 12V DC. how does the umbilical need to relate to the rest of this series? are the running lights completely independent from the trailer's onboard battery power?

my trailer was gutted as well, and i have no points of reference. thanks!

jp
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:45 PM   #18
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Other than powering the running lights, brake lights, turn signals and trailer brakes, the wiring from the tow vehicle provides a charge line to the batteries to keep them charged. The batteries provide the emergency power to the break away switch in case of hitch disconnect in addition to powering the various 12V circuits.

Bill
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
hi guys,

... how does the umbilical need to relate to the rest of this series? are the running lights completely independent from the trailer's onboard battery power?
jp
couple things:

the running lights are seperate from the rest of the trailer. they simply mate to the tow vehicles headlight circuit.
there is a charging circuit from the tow vehicle that connects from the umbilical to the converter, which will power the 12v systems in the trailer, and charge the battery.
another line in the umbilical branches off to the brakes, and others connect the brake lights/directionals/reverse lights.

your drawing is not quite right. I'm not so handy with the drawing programs, so perhaps I can describe it verbally:

the 110v from shore power doesn't go "through" the inverter. (its more acurately called a "CONverter", too, btw). the line connects to a 110 circuit breaker box, just like what is in your house. 2 circuits go from there to the outlets, and air conditioning. (air conditioner is typically on a dedicated circuit. everything else, including the converter, is powered from the other circuit). the converter then sends 12v out to the 12v lights/appliances/outlets. if the 110 is plugged in, it also charges the battery. if its not, it gets its power from the battery.

does that make sense?
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:00 PM   #20
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Diring Wiagrams

I think you need a diagram and go from there.
Suggest a charge monitor with the inverter to keep the battery from frying and dying.
Have heard wonderful things about fluorescent lights.
Your budget is a controling factor.
You all can have fun with a candle and a battery powered boom box for all that matters.
What do you want for wiring?
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:05 AM   #21
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If you buy a good inverter, like a Heart for instance, it will automaticaly switch from an inverter to a three stage batterie charger When you plug it in to a 120 volt circuit. When it is not connected to 120 volts it puts out 120 volts AC and or 12 volts DC at the same time. Mine is 2000 Watts. also remember that 12 volt takes a lot larger wire for the same wattage. Mac
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:20 AM   #22
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Hi Traveller -

I would think that you should plan on putting in a newer three-way fridge (propane, 110 volt, 12 volt) although you can't run it entirely on 12 volt power. It does require 12 volt to run on the propane for the controls. When on propane, it will cool right down and uses minimal 12 volt power.

Look into the IntelliPower with Charge Wizard as a battery charger while plugged into shore power. I think you'll find its just what you've been looking for. They come in different models.

Other items you may want to consider are reading lights over the sleeping area(s). Wire it now and leave the wire ends available for later if you like. I also wired in two cigarette lighter plugs for use with various items like my laptop and a 12 volt Endless Breeze portable fan. While I think about it, I put in two 12 volt muffin fans at the base of the fridge vent above the fridge to increase air circulation behind the fridge increasing its efficiency. Makes a big difference on a hot day.

I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere that I made in Adobe Illustrator. I'll see if I can find it and post.

Brad
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere that I made in Adobe Illustrator. I'll see if I can find it and post...
thanks brad! if you do have something to peep, that would be great. i'll hold off on taking another stab at my diagram until then.

i am planning on starting the wiring on the running lights this weekend. i have 4 side markers, and i think i'm putting 4 markers on the front (to cover existing holes), and the license mount with light. i don't have the tail lights yet, so that will have to wait for a bit. anyway, the markers are all run in parallel, off one lead. what guage wire should i look at for that kind of load? all these lights ground to the body. also, is there a standard color scheme for these wires that i could follow (so future owners won't pull their hair out?) as i understand it, i have one line for the marker lights (does this one run to the tail lights as well?), one line for the brake lights, one for the electric brakes, one for left turn, and one for right. did i miss anything?

jp
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i am planning on starting the wiring on the running lights this weekend. i have 4 side markers, and i think i'm putting 4 markers on the front (to cover existing holes), and the license mount with light. i don't have the tail lights yet, so that will have to wait for a bit. anyway, the markers are all run in parallel, off one lead. what guage wire should i look at for that kind of load? all these lights ground to the body. also, is there a standard color scheme for these wires that i could follow (so future owners won't pull their hair out?) as i understand it, i have one line for the marker lights (does this one run to the tail lights as well?), one line for the brake lights, one for the electric brakes, one for left turn, and one for right. did i miss anything?

jp
Jordan,

the running lights, license light, and taillights can all use the same wire. The gauge should be 14. I would use the color code that is listed in the standard 7-pin connectors.
I believe it is green for running lights, brown for turn signal/brake right, red for turn signal/brake left, white for ground ( use a 10or 12gauge for this)
Yellow for the brakes, and blue for the charge line.
Someone please correct me if I got this backwards, as I am writing this from memory.
You can use 14 gauge for all the lights ( 3 circuits)
You do not need separate wires for brake lights, the turn signals and brake lights are the same filament. When you brake and turn, the corresponding brake light will blink.
I suggest to use 10 gauge for the ground, 10 gauge for the charge line, and 12 gauge for the brake wiring.
My charge line doubles as a power supply for an electric tongue jack, and also for the breakaway switch. It is fused near the battery by a 40A fuse. The tongue jack has it's own fuse.
The charge line runs directly to the batteries, through the 40A fuse. The converter also runs to the batteries, is basically paralleled to the charge line. It is quite simple, really.
I chose a 60A intellipower, with charge wizard. Bought it from a forum member, who sells them at a discount to other forum members. I forget his handle right now.
A good, solid chassis ground to the 7-way plug is key to a reliably functioning system. I connected my ground wire to one of the ribs of the shell, and applied protective grease to avoid future corrosion.
My wiring supplies, grommets, and fuse box, fuses etc. came from www.waytekwire.com and www.wurthusa.com
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:19 AM   #25
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There are really good wiring diagrams on the Airstream web site in the owners manuals for the newer trailers.They include wire gauge and color coding.I used them to plan the wiring in my '61.
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:21 AM   #26
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I used this plug and color code:
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:49 AM   #27
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Uwe,

That plug diagram is just weird. Why didn't you go to the current standard?
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:59 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Uwe,

That plug diagram is just weird. Why didn't you go to the current standard?
I used the 7-pin round because it is a far superior connection. The 7-pin flat only carry 20A max, and are very prone to corrosion.
The 7-pin round are the same as found on the front skin of Airstreams from the 70's.
I needed a very solid power transfer for my electric/hydraulic brake system, and this is the only connection that is "legal" for 30A continuous use.
Maybe the diagram is weird, the 7-way round pin plug is definitely not.
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