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Old 11-08-2014, 12:07 AM   #43
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PD4655 does not have any surge protection built in. We got a separate surge protector, the Surge Guard. We also got a voltage regulator, though that's more than most would bother with.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:33 PM   #44
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I recently installed a PD4655 in my Safari 19'. The cables from battery were too short, but no problem. Just loosen the cable clamps a pull a bit more wire to fit easily.

Of course, now I am trading the 19 in for a 23D - so will have to do this again. I also put in a battery monitor in the 19. The new owner will benefit from this. I am planning to get a bluetooth iPhone app battery monitor - a Zamp Battery Check.

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Old 12-21-2014, 04:46 PM   #45
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Thanks to the forum for great pix and details. Installed mine in 90 minutes, taking it slow and easy. Battery cables were plenty long, and it went together easily.
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:48 PM   #46
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Adding a few tips to the ones I read about:

1. For the DC board, I pulled the battery wire to get enough loose slack, then used a set of pliers to bend the battery cables at several places so it would be easier to route the battery cables around the back of the board.

2. To map the circuits on the old Parallax board to the new one, I pulled the colored wires off the old board one by one and placed on the new board. Was a bit slower than pulling them all off at once, but it eliminated any issued of accidentally mixing up the placement of the wires.

3. I used the pictures in the various threads in this forum to figure out which wires went where. The only one I couldn't easily figure out is the black wire that came off the circuit breaker and attached to the old Parallax board. You have to cut that wire, and use a wire nut to join it with the new black wire coming off the Progressive Dynamics board. As has been said earlier, the green wire coming off the Progressive Dynamics board just runs to an empty grounding slot.

4. The new DC board has threaded mounting holes (the old one did not). Resist the urge to thread the mounting bolts to the new board before first attempting to screw the DC board onto the mounting plate. Instead, line up the holes of the new DC board with the mounting plate, and thread one bolt on at a time.

The dealer quoted four hours to install, which would have exceeded the cost of the replacement converter by 2x. Doing it myself was pretty easy. The only tools needed were a 4mm hex (for installing the battery cables onto the new DC board), Phillips and flat head screw drivers, pliers, wire cutter/strippers, and a small torx bit for removing the 4 screws that hold the brown cover on.

I think most folks who are handy with wiring projects can tackle this in their sleep. If you look at the pictures on the forum and map which wires go to their various places, it really is super simple. I didn't really need the directions.
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:13 PM   #47
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Thanks to the OP and all who have contributed to this informative thread. Just ordered a PD4655 to replace the battery bubbler in my 23D. I will post my install experience in a few weeks. Cheers.
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:01 AM   #48
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So I've had my PD4655 in for 4 months, with the trailer plugged into my shop garage, waiting out winter. I checked the battery recently because the jack wouldn't work, even with the trailer plugged into shore power, and have experienced some very odd behavior.

With shore power connected, the battery showed a full charge on the AS status meter. I unplugged, and the trailer's indoor LED lights began to dim quickly then went out completely, and the AS tatus meter showed the battery charge in the low red range. It's like the converter wasn't charging the batteries and they were all charged down.

I then plugged an 8 amp battery tender directly to the batteries and began charging the batteries, with the shore power disconnected. The status meter showed the batteries near full charge. I disconnected the plug powering the battery tender, and the AS status showed the batteries much lower, still in the red/yellow, but not as low as before. However, the internal LED lights worked fine.

The green status light on the PD4655's smart monitor board at first was flashing slowly every 7 seconds or so. Then it held flashed solid green.

I tried flipping the circuit breaker just to see if this changed anything, but no.

I'll check the batteries after the overnight tender charge (it is an 8amp tender), but any thought on what might be happening? Perhaps the PD4655 is acting up? Or something else? Maybe the batteries are toast? It's like the converter wasn't charging the batteries when shore power was connected. What to look for or test (and how)?
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Old 05-08-2015, 04:54 AM   #49
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Have you checked your electrolyte levels in your batteries?
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:22 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lara Me View Post
I'll check the batteries after the overnight tender charge (it is an 8amp tender), but any thought on what might be happening? Perhaps the PD4655 is acting up? Or something else? Maybe the batteries are toast? It's like the converter wasn't charging the batteries when shore power was connected. What to look for or test (and how)?
Is the switch on? We were wondering about our low voltage on the last trip, and I checked the switch for the converter (in ours, behind the front curbside curtain), and lo and behold it had been turned off. Our guess is that our curious, troublemaker cat turned it off.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:16 AM   #51
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The light flashing every 6-7 seconds indicates the converter is in storage mode and is keeping a trickle charge on the batteries. Do you have your battery switch in the "Use" mode?
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:42 AM   #52
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Ok, dumb question. When plugged into shore power, to charge the batteries, should the battery switch inside the trailer be on "use" or "store"? It was on "store". Somehow I assumed the converter would auto charge the batteries regardless of the setting.

I unplugged shore power, plugged in the 8amp battery tender and let sit overnight, and now all is normal, batteries fully charged and the status meter showing full power.
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:54 AM   #53
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For the converter to charge batteries, it has to be on 'use' unless your wiring is significantly different than factory standard.

Mine needs to be in 'use' to charge from the converter, but my solar goes direct to the batteries. The solar is a 4 stage charger with temperature sensing. The current junker converter is going to be replaced with a better one...soon!


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Old 05-09-2015, 05:33 AM   #54
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The "store" mode disconnects the batteries to prevent discharge from parasitic drain from the trailer. Your batteries are essentially disconnected from the trailer AND the charger. Keep it in "Use" mode when you are charging the batteries.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:20 AM   #55
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Thanks all, that would explain my problem.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:30 AM   #56
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Quote:
The "store" mode disconnects the batteries to prevent discharge from parasitic drain from the trailer. Your batteries are essentially disconnected from the trailer AND the charger. Keep it in "Use" mode when you are charging the batteries.
This is not always the case. My 2009 Classic is wired such that the converter is on the battery side of the disconnect switch and switching to Store disconnects most 12v items, but not all (LP detector, jack, etc.). This enables me to charge my batteries while on shore power and solar. It came from Jackson Center wired this way and I like it because my batteries are always topped off by either my 3 stage charger when on shore power and by solar when not.

The important thing is to know which wiring method was used on your particular AS and act accordingly.
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