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Old 06-04-2015, 02:26 AM   #15
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Little grey wire hanging out there

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Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
The little grey hanging out there is from the original univolt, haven't decided what to do with it, it provided the AC available light on the control panel with the tank levels and stuff on it. New converter doesn't support it, may/may not jury rig something.
Hey Joe.
How about a 12v ice cube relay and an 4a in-line fuse for the gray wire? This might work if the converter wire isn't too big.

I'm starting to see the big, complicated, yet simple picture.

Thanks
-johnny
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:10 PM   #16
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I think that grey+ might actually be a negative, from the looks of it, I think it's the negative return line from all the house circuits. One way to check is check resistance from white wire to the shell, if it's zero or close to it then it's the negative. The negative also uses the shell as a negative/ground path for some loads. There's a wire somewhere connecting the negative line to the shell with a screw or bolt.
Otherwise it looks good, it will work.

Yep, it's a big complicated picture that all works together like a bowl of spaghetti, you can look at the spaghetti and get the surface picture, which is good for 95% of the folks... or you can start pilling at the noodles and really get your head wrapped around it. If you go that far then when there are problems down the road they're easier to figure out.
Although even I have brainfarts sometimes, had a good one a couple days ago, when it finally hit me what was going on I was just DUH.
Troubleshooting the light above the door. Didn't work, had a good bulb. Unscrewed the housing and took off the shell, wire still attached. Needed serious cleaning, had to solder a little extra onto the center post to get good contact. Then conductivity was really spotty, came and went. DUH, unscrewed from shell, shell is the ground, good conductivity when it happened to be touching shell, not when wasn't touching shell strongly. Troubleshot for about 10 min before it finally hit me. Back together, works all peachy.
Little dremel brass wire brushes clean the inside of the 1156/1157 bulb sockets really well. Then wipe them with a little dielectric grease or nonox to get good conductivity and keep them corrosion free.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:22 AM   #17
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Well today is the proof in the pudding. I will start the dismantle of the old system by labeling all of the wires then disconnecting the AS battery. Then its on to putting on new wire connectors and heat shrink wrapping them. Once I have all of the wires connected and double checked I will start by reconnecting the AS battery. If it all works then I will move on to connecting shore power and pray.

Thanks so much Joe for all of your insightful and wonderful advice. I will not be hooking up the grey water tank yet as I don't know what it does but I will at least go in and wire it up without a fuse so that if I should happen to find out how it works I can switch it on quickly. The rest of the wires will be put on and we will see how it comes together.

Stay tuned...
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:52 AM   #18
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Slightly distracting question: Why does Airstream additionally fuse the negative side of the circuit? Personally, I suspect that halucinogenic drugs may be involved.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:05 PM   #19
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Well after 6 hours and some very rug burned knees I have successfully replaced the fuse block and re connected the entire system. No shorts anywhere and everything is working normally.

I cannot say thank you enough to the wonderful inputs from everyone- especially HiJoeSilver. You gave me the confidence and assurance that it can be done even by the novice craftsman.

I will post a picture of the final replacement as soon as I can upload a pic.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:19 PM   #20
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I have some cleanup to do with the wires on the left but at least everything is working.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:33 PM   #21
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Looks very good, well done! Now you know what's what in the future. Just think about something on the edges of the holes to prevent chaffing. Split loom could work on the wires.
Hopefully this little endeavor increases your confidence for future repair work. It's all tackleable, think ahead, research on the forums and anywhere else you can find info and dive in.
Pictures for future reference always help. Digital pics are 'free' you can take 10 or 1000 no cost to develop. Everything I've dreaded turned out to be easier than expected, at least after lots of thought before hand.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarh2o View Post
I have some cleanup to do with the wires on the left but at least everything is working.
Nice job tarh2o,
Can you list the wire colors and designations like HiJoeSilver did on a recent post?

Thanks
-johnny
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:05 AM   #23
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Sure think Johnny - always happy to help out a fellow tin can fan . The wire colors are a bit washed out in the picture from the flash but I will describe what they are. A general note on the BlueSea Fuse Block 5026 I am using - any of the fused slots on the bottom are all positive (+) leads including the bottom post the and the double row terminals on the top are all of the negative (-) leads along with the negative post.

Starting at 12 O'clock and then going clockwise -
  • Black with Blue Heat Shrink Wrap (HSW) AC/DC Converter (-)
  • White with Blue HSW Car Battery (-)
  • Black with Black HSW Airstream Battery (-)
  • Blue with Blue HSW Car Battery (+) with 30amp fuse
  • Red to top of Marinco Battery Disconnect Airstream Battery (+)
  • Red from Left of Marinco Battery disconnect Airstream Battery (+) through 50amp inline fuse to fuse block with a 30amp fuse
  • Red with Blue HSW AC/DC Converter (+) [that's at 6 o'clock bottom]
  • White Fridge (+) with 15 amp fuse
  • Brown Circuit 4 (+) with 20 amp fuse
  • Pink Circuit 3 (+) with 20 amp fuse
  • Yellow Circuit 2 (+) with 20 amp fuse
  • Purple Circuit 1 (+) with 20 amp fuse
  • Black Fridge (-)
  • Grey Grey Water (-) [I have the grey power (+) disconnected as the motor is burned up but it would go in a fused slow with a 10amp fuse]

My AC/DC converter is also fused on the box with 2- 35amp fuses as well. I have a bit of overkill on the fuses but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Some thoughts from my experience -
  • Get a good quality wire stripper that will handle up to he 6 gauge wires
  • The older wires sheathing is tough and is hard to strip cleanly so be patient
  • Buy appropriate copper clamp terminal connectors (shown) to clear the fuse block slots for the heavy gauge wires
  • Buy appropriate smaller gauge terminal connectors that will clear the fuse block slots
  • Label all of your wires
  • Connect all of the wires before putting any power on the system. Test the DC (battery) circuit out first before flipping your circuit breaker for shore power. This will help you isolate any potential problems without risk of a big shock

As HiJoeSilver states it seems daunting but it can be done with plenty of patience and the proper tools.

Thanks
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Old 06-09-2015, 12:28 AM   #24
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tarh2o,

Thanks for taking the time to list out the circuits. Between you and HiJoeSilver, you guys have made this much more clearer.

Thats the fuse block I'm going to use on my AS.

-johnny
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:46 AM   #25
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It is really an easy thing to replace (I can say that now that I have done it - HA!). One other note on mounting the fuse block to the wall. I drilled holes and used through bolts and nylock nuts to prevent them from backing out. This secures it really well.

--Curtis
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:51 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drboyd View Post
Slightly distracting question: Why does Airstream additionally fuse the negative side of the circuit? Personally, I suspect that halucinogenic drugs may be involved.
That's a good question. It WAS the 70's. I suspect that they had situations where there was a voltage spike from some source and they were just being cautious.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:49 AM   #27
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What do I do with the blue TV battery wire?

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Originally Posted by tarh2o View Post

And what happens to the blue wire from the car battery? Will that also go to the bottom positive (+) terminal?
I wired in a new Boondocker converter and new fuse box. This left me with the thick blue wire from the tow vehicle battery left. What do I do with it? Add it to the positive red wires on the fuse box?

Also, there are blue wires run all over the trailer. Do I need these? I have gotten all the lights/fans working with out them. What did the blue wires do?
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:32 PM   #28
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Just found this thread and haven't followed all the way thru it...but thought I'd point out that the factory website has electrical schematics for download. It sure answered a lot of questions on my AS for me.
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