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Old 08-11-2009, 03:12 PM   #1
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Profile:  1967 24' Tradewind
Redding , California
Posts: 247
Blog Entries: 3

Replace Aluminum wiring?

Well amongst the many things that I am learning about my tailer is the fact that is is wired using aluminum wiring. Surprise. I have the trailer just about completely gutted and will be replacing the entire subfloor, this will require that most the interior lower panels be removed. Now the question. Should I rewire the trailer? I see no corrosion what so ever on any of the aluminum wire connections. I could go ahead and rewire the sections that are being exposed but really had not planned nor want to remove end caps, upper and ceiling panels. If aluminum wiring is dangerous then I will want to go ahead do it. Thoughts?

Thanks, Michael
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:46 PM   #2
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Profile:  1976 31' Sovereign
Rock Hill , South Carolina
Posts: 965
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This thread will help shed some light.

Aluminum wiring

Aluminum wiring is a great conductor. But there are un-desireable side effects when connections oxidize.

My $0.02...

If I were in position to replace aluminum wiring without having to rip things apart...I probably would replace with copper. But I wouldn't rip an interior out in order to do it. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:50 PM   #3
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
McDonough , Georgia
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Yep, rewire. There are lots of threads here about the problems with aluminum wire, so I won't go over all of that except to say that it can be dangerous. Rewiring is actually a bunch easier than it looks. The hard part is getting the interior skins off, but you're half way there already.

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Old 08-11-2009, 03:59 PM   #4
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Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
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It's not so much that aluminum is inherently "dangerous." There are issues associated with aluminum 110v wiring that create potential issues that copper does not have.

"Aluminum is relatively soft, and as temperature increases, expands more than the metals from which connectors are made. When current flows through a connection, the connection becomes warmer. The expansion of the aluminum, confined under a screw terminal, generates tremendous pressure, so that the metal "flows" into the empty spaces in the connector. When the electrical load is removed, the aluminum cools and contracts, and a gap forms between the wire and the connector. The slightly loose-fitting connection now has a higher resistance, and more corrosion forms in the gap, further increasing the resistance. The next time a heavy load is applied, the connection becomes even hotter, and so on, until one day the connection may burn out, or surrounding material may ignite."

When we acquired out '67 Overlander, I found out quickly that it had an aluminum 110v wiring plant. I decided immediately to replace it with copper. This was a relatively easy decision because we planned to replace all of the wiring. Dismantling the system, I saw enough to make me feel like this was the right decision.

Personally, I think a travel trailer is a challenging environment. It is subject to movement, vibration, temperature changes, etc. Just like on a boat, I think it makes sense to consider this when evaluating things like electrical and mechanical systems. If the trailer is just going to sit and all of your connections are good, you may feel fine. If you're not planning on changing, I would have a professional electrician evaluate all of the connections and make sure everything you have is aluminum-compatible. On an older system, there's simply no telling what a previous owner might have done.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:05 PM   #5
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Profile:  1968 30' Sovereign
Birch Run , Michigan
Posts: 7

Michael, I'm at the same place you are with my 1968 Sovereign. I'm an electrical engineer and would not even consider moving on without a rewire... Aluminum gets brittle when it is overheated. It won't cost you very much just a few dollars and a day or so... don't forget the "under the floor" lighting stuff. My insulation just about had it...
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Old 08-11-2009, 05:28 PM   #6
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Profile:  1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
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What Ronbo said!

Ronbo is dead on regarding replacement of your aluminum wiring. If you take a close look at it you will see connections made without junction boxes and outlet boxes as well as twisted connections with only 40+ year old electrical tape to insulate the wires from the inner and outer skins. Check out the wiring threads here and be safe. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:14 PM   #7
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Profile:  1967 24' Tradewind
Redding , California
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Ok, I'm convinced...talk about a slippery slope! I keep going "well if I'm going to that then I might as well do.....again and again and again. I am now seriously considering doing a complete shell off. Oh man, wait until I tell the CFO.
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHoot View Post
Oh man, wait until I tell the CFO.
I follow the

"It's easier to ask forgiveness than to ask permission"

philosophy. It's no less painful, but it usually means fewer nights on the couch!!

Good Luck,

Kevin
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:25 PM   #9
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Profile:  1967 24' Tradewind
Kingman , Arizona
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For what its worth.... My 1967 Tradewind is a California built unit. The 12v wiring is aluminum. The 110v wiring is copper. I think the aluminum is safe for 12v. Adios, John
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:20 PM   #10
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Profile:  1967 22' Safari
1973 Argosy 26
1960 28' Ambassador
Avonton , Ontario
Posts: 452

You can get aluminum compatable plugs to replace the ones in the trailer. I did that and used anti oxident grease and have had no problems in 10 years. But if it's apart I would replace everything I could get out, plumbing, wireing, insulation and floors.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:11 PM   #11
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Profile:  1967 24' Tradewind
Redding , California
Posts: 247
Blog Entries: 3

Well my California built is 110 aluminum

So from what I read nothing is consistent on AS. Here's more proof. If it were 12V I would not be worrying.
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