Refrigerator 12V supply Argosy RV

[zacreeves]

We recently purchased a 1978 24ft Argosy RV, and I have been working on getting all of the systems working. One issue I found yesterday is that the refrigerator does not have 12V power at the terminal block in the refrigerator access panel.

I've been unable to trace these wires because they disappear inside a grommet. There's no call out for these wires in the manual, and I checked all of the fuses at the distribution panel behind/below the passenger seat.

I read somewhere that the refrigerator typically has always-powered wires from the deep cycle side, so I thought maybe there was a junction that I cannot find before the house battery cables make it to the distribution panel.

There are other issues with getting the refrigerator working, but I thought this was a good place to start. So, does anyone know where the power supply wires for the refrigerator tie into the house 12V power?

Thanks for any help.

[HowieE]

I would first locate the fuse or breaker panel for the trailer and test the output side of each fuse or breaker. If one does not have power I would fix that issue first then rest the input to the frig.


The panel should be the only connection between the battery and the frig.

[zacreeves]

Originally Posted by HowieE

I would first locate the fuse or breaker panel for the trailer and test the output side of each fuse or breaker. If one does not have power I would fix that issue first then rest the input to the frig.


The panel should be the only connection between the battery and the frig.

I did check all fuses and connections at the panel; everything had 12V or continuity.

[1973Argosy]

My 73 doesn't have 12volt at the fridge because nothing on my refrigerator uses 12volt. In my trailer the refrigerator is manual light and is a 2 way powered by 110 or propane

[HowieE]

Good answer!

[TG Twinkie]

What brand and model is the refer?
It may not require 12 volts

[SilverHouseDreams]

One option to help find it is a "fox and hound", disconnect 12V power and then you can connect the "hound" to the copper/connector on the wire and use the "hound" to trace where it goes/ends. These are used heavily in the telecom/IT networking space to trace wires in large bundles, and should work here if you can justify the expense for future potential use cases.

[overlander63]

The OEM fridge does not need 12v, so there is no 12v readily available there. If you replace the fridge with one that requires 12v, you will need to provide 12v to it.

[zacreeves]

Originally Posted by overlander63

The OEM fridge does not need 12v, so there is no 12v readily available there. If you replace the fridge with one that requires 12v, you will need to provide 12v to it.

It has a 12V terminal block, a 12V option on the selector switch, 12V wiring coming into the cabinet, a 12V heating element...because the fridge is 120V/12V/Gas. Why would it not need 12V?

Maybe I'm missing something. I'm assuming it doesn't need 12V to work on either 110V or propane, but 12V is definitely an option.

[zacreeves]

Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams

One option to help find it is a "fox and hound", disconnect 12V power and then you can connect the "hound" to the copper/connector on the wire and use the "hound" to trace where it goes/ends. These are used heavily in the telecom/IT networking space to trace wires in large bundles, and should work here if you can justify the expense for future potential use cases.

Good idea. I have never used something like that, but someone I work with probably has one. Thanks for the idea.

[zacreeves]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

What brand and model is the refer?
It may not require 12 volts

I will have to look at the model number tonight. It is a Dometic 120V/12V/Gas.

[1973Argosy]

Did you get a chance to verify the model number? I know from my boating experience that three ways do exist but they are not normally found in rvs and I'm pretty sure Airstream never put a 3 way into a unit from the factory. That's not to say someone didn't upgrade your fridge to a 3 way, but if they did I would question the wiring and would probably run new wire to know that it's safe. 12 volt is notorious for melting and starting fires if the wire guage is not heavy enough.

[TG Twinkie]

If you can locate the 12 volt heating element. Disconnect it and tape off the wires.
There must be a control board which means you need 12 volts.
You would not need heavier wire for just the control board.