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Old 11-21-2015, 01:32 PM   #1
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Rear 30a drops off

My rear 30A power drops off for no apparent reason. I replaced the connector because of others with failures. Not helping. When I plug into the front connector, all is well.
2013 25 FC
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:40 PM   #2
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There is an automatic transfer switch between front and rear connectors that has been a source of failure. Good chance you need a new, heavier duty model.
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:40 PM   #3
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Neither outside receptical accepting 30 amps.

Similar problem times two ! After blowing the 30 amp fuse in my electric jack, I replaced the fuse and all systems worked fine. A day later, after changing campgrounds, the rear power receptical failed to work. There was power throughout the cord, so I used the front receptical. Worked fine, for three days. Now, neither receptical works with the 30 amp post plug. I've temporarily switched to using a 20 amp cord this afternoon and all electric is working once again. However, I won't be able to use the Air Conditioner until my problems get resolved. Any advice appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2015, 03:57 PM   #4
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Any idea where this transfer switch might be located on a 25ft FC RB?
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:54 PM   #5
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Any idea where this transfer switch might be located on a 25ft FC RB?
Check the "sofa" that runs from the fridge up to the dinette. It should be under there.
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:38 PM   #6
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The transfer switch that Airstream uses is made by Parallax, the same great folks that bring you the single, constant voltage battery burner that they call a 'converter'.

You will find said transfer switch attached to the back of your 120VAC circuit breaker panel.

IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR OR COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH 120VAC WIRING, DO NOT PROCEED AND HAVE A QUALIFIED TECH CONTINUE. A MISTAKE HERE COULD BE FATAL, AS 120VAC WIRING MUST BE REMOVED AND REINSTALLED IN THE CIRCUIT'S 30 AMP MAIN BREAKER.

PM me for any further re-wiring instructions.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:34 PM   #7
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Lew, for whatever reason, not all of the transfer switches are in the same location. Most are behind the breaker/converter, but not all. Some of the rear bed models have the transfer switch toward the front, with the breaker panel under the bed. This may have to do with the location of the water heater, which is in the area you would expect to see the transfer switch. I'll see if I can remember to post photos...
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Old 12-04-2015, 09:25 PM   #8
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Thanks for the update. All of the trailers that I have been working on lately have the switch attached to the breaker box. I usually remove them during a trailer re-wire when adding a large inverter/charger system.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:14 AM   #9
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The transfer switch in my '09 30' RB Classic is located inside the rear storage compartment on the street side inside a small compartment. My front 30 amp receptacle wasn't working so I figured it was a transfer switch problem. Took me forever to find it. Its purpose is to automatically switch from the rear shore power receptacle to the front one whenever generator power is applied through the front one. Insurance, if you will, that both shore power and generator power aren't on at the same time.

Lew, a question for you please? I'm aware the WFCO inverter that Airstream installs has an internal transfer switch. How does this work in combination with the generator/shore power transfer switch? Does it mean no matter whether on solar, generator, or shore power you're protected from an overload?

Also, do Magnum inverters have a transfer switch?

Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:25 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by kickstand View Post
A day later, after changing campgrounds, the rear power receptical failed to work. There was power throughout the cord, so I used the front receptical. Worked fine, for three days. Now, neither receptical works with the 30 amp post plug. I've temporarily switched to using a 20 amp cord this afternoon and all electric is working once again.
The problem could be at the other end of the shore power cord, where you're plugged into the service pedestal. A loose electrical socket on the service pedestal can cause no end of problems. A loose fit between plug and socket causes increased electrical resistance that can lead to excessive power usage, overheating of the outlet and plug, and tripping circuit breakers. One reason why I carry a 50-to-30-amp adapter. Many popular State Parks in particular have 30-amp electrical sockets that have seen a lot of use and a lot of wear-and-tear, but the 50-amp sockets aren't used nearly as often. So if my shore power plug doesn't fit snugly into the 30-amp socket, out comes the adapter, and problem solved.

Given that plugging into a 20-amp socket works, a bad 30-amp socket seems the most likely culprit, versus something wrong with your trailer.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:38 AM   #11
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Thanks Protagonist, your solution and suggestions were spot on. The campground ranger ripped apart and changed out both the 30 amp breaker as well as the "sloppy" plug receptical. Our A/S was not the culprit. And, I'll be picking up a 50 to 30 at the next opportunity. Thanks again to you and others who responded.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:57 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by kickstand View Post
Thanks Protagonist, your solution and suggestions were spot on. The campground ranger ripped apart and changed out both the 30 amp breaker as well as the "sloppy" plug receptical. Our A/S was not the culprit. And, I'll be picking up a 50 to 30 at the next opportunity. Thanks again to you and others who responded.
Kickstand
2011 25 FC front twin.
Not all park power outputs are the same. You should also think about a surge protector or autoformer to put between your trailer and the pedestal. These have indicator lights to let you know of problems with shore power. I have seen threads on the forum that discuss these devices.
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Old 12-06-2015, 10:44 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by acstokes View Post
The transfer switch in my '09 30' RB Classic is located inside the rear storage compartment on the street side inside a small compartment. My front 30 amp receptacle wasn't working so I figured it was a transfer switch problem. Took me forever to find it. Its purpose is to automatically switch from the rear shore power receptacle to the front one whenever generator power is applied through the front one. Insurance, if you will, that both shore power and generator power aren't on at the same time.

Lew, a question for you please? I'm aware the WFCO inverter that Airstream installs has an internal transfer switch. How does this work in combination with the generator/shore power transfer switch? Does it mean no matter whether on solar, generator, or shore power you're protected from an overload?

Also, do Magnum inverters have a transfer switch?

Thanks.
Fred,

The internal transfer switch in any inverter used for RV or marine use should do 2 things:

1. it should seamlessly 'pass thru' power to the 120VAC outlets connected to the inverter when shore power is present
2. should provide an automatic neutral to ground bond ONLY when inverting.

#2 is very important!!! as any power source should provide a neutral to ground link WHEN IT IS GENERATING 120VAC POWER.

ALL Magnum inverters have both features imbedded within the units.

I'm not familiar enough with the WFCO inverters, as the only thing I do with them is remove them when upgrading to Magnum units.

Let me know if you have any other questions regarding Magnums or the functions described above.
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:22 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by acstokes View Post

Lew, a question for you please? I'm aware the WFCO inverter that Airstream installs has an internal transfer switch. How does this work in combination with the generator/shore power transfer switch? Does it mean no matter whether on solar, generator, or shore power you're protected from an overload?
The WFCO inverter that Airstream supplies (optional equipment) has a transfer switch internally, but it may or may not be hooked up so you can use it. Airstream does not apparently specify the unit with a working internal transfer switch. At least my 2014 FC 20' unit does not have one which works.

It is very strange, there is a 120 volt cord and plug attached to the WFCO 1000 watt sine wave inverter and the WFCO manual talks about how it can be used by plugging the inverter into an outlet and the power will be transferred to the inverter outlets automatically. So, I thought that all I would have to do is to plug it in and it would transfer power automatically. However that did not work. I found an obscure sentence in the WFCO manual that indicated that the transfer process was "if specified". Airstream apparently did not "specify" it. So, the thing looks like it would do the job (cord is in place etc.) but it will not. In fact, you can even hear an internal click, indicating that a relay is working. But no power gets transferred. I even took mine apart, thinking that all they did was not to connect the 120 volt cord internally but it turns out that is not the case. Some other electronic thing is preventing the transfer from taking place.

To complicate things further, others posting here on the web have said their WFCO inverter transfer switch worked, while still more who have tried it found that, like mine, it does not.

I would not plan on having an Airstream supplied WFCO inverter on having a working internal transfer switch. I believe most don't.

The grounding issue that Lewster mentions is another potential problem with the WFCO. Since mine does not transfer anything, I cannot say how the grounding issue is handled in the WFCO.
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