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Old 06-20-2016, 09:44 PM   #15
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Cheetah1,

The box you are going to buy is able to be wired for 240v operation. In a 240v application, you would have a black wire, red wire, white wire (neutral), and ground.

The black wire and red wires are both called the hot legs (black leg and red leg), and the voltage between them is 240v. The voltage from either the black leg or red leg to the neutral is 120v.

When you install a two pole breaker in the breaker panel, it will clip onto both the black leg and the red leg. A two pole breaker is for 240v high power appliance, like a stove. In order for this to work, the black leg buss bar and the red leg buss bar need to be next to each other so that a double pole breaker can plug into both busses. That's why the buss bars are arranged like they are.

But in your trailer, you only have one "leg" which is the black wire in your power cord that plugs into the pedestal at the campground. You don't have a red leg. So there is nothing to attach to the red lug in your panel. That means that only half of the breaker slots would have power, the ones that are connected to the buss bar that holds the 30a main breaker.

So buy a 30a single pole breaker, attach the black wire from the power cord to the screw terminal on the breaker, and plug it into whatever slot you like. Power will flow in through the power cord, through the 30a breaker, and into whichever buss bar that breaker is plugged in to.

You'll also need to buy all new breakers for the new box. The old ones won't work as they use a different clamping method to the buss bar.

In order to get power from the buss that holds the main breaker over to the other buss bar, you need to add a jumper wire (#10 wire) from the black leg to the red leg. Otherwise you will only have power to half of the breakers in your new panel.

The two lugs that need to be connected are the ones that are at the ends of the buss bars. In your picture, one of the lugs is mostly hidden behind the neutral bar. The other is to the right and below the main lug for the neutral bar. You might be able to use the red wire from your original box, but it may be too short.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Good luck, post again if you have questions. It sounds like you are well on your way.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:15 AM   #16
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1968 30' Sovereign
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Markdoane, i cannot thank you enough for taking the time for the explanations and the help. It is truly appreciated. I hope to have time to complete this project at the end of this week. Thank you again!
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:34 AM   #17
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1968 30' Sovereign
New Richmond , Wisconsin
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Markdoane,

Thank you for your explanation and your patience. I have purchased everything I believe I need including the a grounding bar which I installed in the bottom right with the two screw openings provided there. BUT - I do have one more question. In looking at the old electrical box, there was a bare copper wire that at one time looks to have extended from somewhere inside the breaker panel and then was screwed to the frame itself. I always thought it to be the ground wire. Months ago when I first opened that box, this copper wire literally "fell out" of whatever it was connected to inside the box. It has not been attached to anything since - and all outlets and lights within the trailer work.

SO, do I need to attach some type of ground wire going from this new electrical box I am putting in the would go from the interior of the box directly to the inside metal of the trailer for some type of ground? I believe that when I am plugged into the house (which it has been since we have brought it home) - everything is grounded because the outlet on the home is grounded through the main load box of the home. BUT - we also plan on using a generator when we boondocks. So, do I need to install that ground wire and, and if so, where inside the box do I attach it? I am making the assumption that the other end of this ground wire can be attached via a grounding screw directly to the interior aluminum skin.

Given the weather here by St. Paul, I have opted to start this project on Monday once this humidity and high heat have passed. I have attached a couple of pics showing the location of the old electrical box on the lower right and the location of the new electrical box on the left. The new box nicely fits into the space between the two wing walls that separate the rear closet from the rear bath.

Thank you again for your help.
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:03 PM   #18
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Correct on the ground wire. I would try to move the new box up a couple of inches, you're supposed to be totally clear in front of the box for 30 inches. I'm not sure how well that is enforced.
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