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Old 05-31-2016, 10:34 PM   #1
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progressive dynamic pd4655 question.

Hello group,
Were the proud owners of a 2016 25 Flying Cloud. We have had it for 6 months and decided to install a progressive dynamic pd4655 after talking to the dealer about keeping it plugged in. I'm a auto tech and installed it myself, I found it very easy and strait forward. My question is when checking the output voltage I'm getting 13.2 volt on normal and when i force it into boost it puts out 13.6 volts. I suspect the issue is we have it plugged into the basic garage plug using the short adaptor cord. will this give me lower readings not being plugged into a true 30 amp service?
Jim
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:17 PM   #2
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Well after testing some more I found the correct voltage at the unit it self, but there is some voltage loss to the battery's. I'm guessing this is normal. My thought on the adapter plug was incorrect after testing be for and after the plug voltage.
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:09 AM   #3
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As the batteries reach full charge the PD 4655 will lower the charge rate because it is a multi-stage charger. Once it reaches it's full charge it should stop and go into a maintenance mode, applying more charge only if the batteries need it. This keeps your batteries from boiling all the water/acid out of them. It sounds to me like the PD4655 is working fine. The best voltage reading will be at the batteries, after charging has stopped (unplug) and they have been sitting for a couple of hours. Depending on the battery type, fully charged, at rest, it should be 12.7 to 12.85.

From the PD manual:

The Charge Wizard Operation:
While the built-in Charge Wizard? automatically determines which operating mode is best suited to recharge or maintain opti-mum battery condition, the Wizard Mode Button allows for manual override and has an indicator light to indicate the mode of operation. (Located on DC board, included)

BOOST MODE – Indicated by green LED remaining on. The output voltage is 14.4VDC to rapidly recharge the battery up to 90% of full charge.

NORMAL MODE – When the battery is between 50% and 90% charged, the green LED will flash once per second. When the battery has reached 90% of full charge, the green LED will flash 2 - 3 times per second. In this mode the output voltage is 13.6VDC and the converter is safely completing the charge of the battery.

STORAGE MODE – Indicated by green LED flashing every 6 - 8 seconds. In this mode the output voltage has been lowered to 13.2VDC, the RV battery is fully charged and the converter is maintaining the charge.

WIZARD MODE BUTTON - The manual button has been provided to allow the operator to temporarily override the con-verter (not recommended) or to verify the converter is operating properly. For manual operation, Press and Hold the button. The indicator light will soon remain “ON” indicating Boost Mode. Continue to hold the button and the light will blink rapidly indicating the converter is in the Normal Mode. Continue to hold the button until the light blinks slowly indicating the con-verter is now in the Storage Mode. After the manual button is released the converter will stay in the selected mode. When the battery charge status changes, the converter will return to the automatic mode of operation to prevent damage to the battery.

- All times and voltages provided above are approximate. -
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:59 AM   #4
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Thanks for the reply Rich. My confusion was and still is when I read the voltage at the unit it shows the readings are right at the reading the manual says it should be, when I read it at the battery they are off. Example, normal mode at the unit was 13.6 at the battery it was 13.1 after a hour it went to 13.3. I would have thought the power and ground wires at the battery should have been the same.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:18 AM   #5
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What do you mean, "at the unit"? Are you measuring the voltage on the PD4655 while connected to shore power with a multi-meter? I'm not clear on what it is you're trying to measure; battery voltage? PD4655 outputs?

The garage 20 amp or CG 30 amp service won't make a difference but the line voltage could. If you got 120vac at home and 110vac at the CG, that can affect readings. Volts is how fast the river is moving, amps is how big the river is, more power behind the speed.

To properly check just the battery voltage, everything needs to be turned off, disconnected from shore power and Use/Store in Store position. That's how I test mine.

Do you have a solar panel? That can also affect your readings.

If you are measuring at the battery and it actually goes up after an hour then maybe you had something still drawing electricity, like a fridge fan, that goes on and off. Disconnecting shore power and putting it in Store with no solar panel in the mix should give you an accurate reading.

With everything off and in store position with no solar, batteries in excellent condition, after the PD4655 has charged the batteries, you should be reading 12.7 to 12.85 (depending on the type of battery) after an hour.
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:27 PM   #6
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When I say unit, I mean the 4655. I'm very clear on how to test a battery I've been a auto master tech for 30 years. What I was surprized by is when I swapped out to the 4655 I was seeing only 13.1 volts present on the battery's when specifications said it should have been 13.6 but I measured the 4655 it was showing the correct voltage 13.6. Now there should not be a difference between the two unless there is corrosion on the line or resistance from something or the battery's we're that low it was affecting the reading. Spoke to progressive tech and we believe it was the battery's being low causing the different reading. After 24hrs both readings were the same. 13.6 to 13.7.
What I'm watching now is it has been 2 days and I still haven't dropped to to maintaince mode it's still at 13.7. What I have read sometimes it will take up to 72 hours to change over.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:10 AM   #7
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Have you measured the internal resistance of the battery?

It's possible that if you measure the internal resistance of the battery you will find the answer.

The voltage difference (0.5vdc) is the power required to overcome the battery internal resistance.
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
Have you measured the internal resistance of the battery?

It's possible that if you measure the internal resistance of the battery you will find the answer.

The voltage difference (0.5vdc) is the power required to overcome the battery internal resistance.
I don't think so. First, you can't easily measure the internal resistance of the battery. The internal resistance is just that, internal. He is measuring the voltage at the battery terminals. What he is observing is he has .5 volts of loss in the battery cables and connections. That seems high to me. Assuming the 4655 is at maximum current output, the half a volt loss is equivalent to 100 feet of #10 wire. IF the 4655 is putting out less, the equivalent length of wire is proportionally greater.

I'd suggest putting the negative probe on the negative output of the 4655. Then measure the voltage at the next point along the path to the negative terminal of the batteries. I'm guessing the cable from the 4655 goes to a buss bar and then through another cable to the battery terminal. So measure from the 4655 terminal to the wire at the terminal, then from the 4655 end of the wire to the bussbar end of the wire, then from the wire end to the bussbar and continue like this until you have measure the voltage across every wire and connection between the 4655 and the batteries. Then do the same thing starting with the positive probe on the positive terminal of the 4655 and the negative probe on the wire at the terminal. Here I'm guessing that the path includes at least one fuse or circuit breaker. If you find any single element with voltage more than 0.1 to 0.2 volts, consider replacing it. My favorite candidate is the STORE/USE switch.

Al
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:05 AM   #9
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Thanks for the input guys! AL, that's what the pregressive tech was saying. Your right on the money!
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:31 AM   #10
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FYI and FWIW there is another thread discussing a possible bad batch of these units from the mfg.:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...se-151312.html

May have no relation to your discussion . . .

Cheers,

Peter
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