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Old 05-10-2006, 12:08 AM   #43
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Univolt fuse panel

John, Thanks for the info and the schematics. My trailer has the spot for the Univolt mounted under the sink cabinet on the curbside rear of the trailer. What is strange is that there was no fuse panel inside the unit and a Two fuse panel was mounted to the right side metal battery tray in the battery compartment under the mid-cabin goucho. The terminal for all the 12 volt circuits was mounted under the metal tray that the battery sits on. I am wondering now if it was wired different than yours and if that is why there was no panel board in the Univolt. This may require more knowledge of the older trailers wiring than I have found to date. Maybe someone else can weigh in. I will also see if Andy at Inland can shed some light on my problem. I had already seen the fuse panel at VTS website but didn't feel it was right for my trailer as I don't have but the 2 fuses on the old panel next to the battery. Let me know if this sounds strange. When I removed the old Univolt I unplugged it and took the electrical tape off of the two wires that were coming out of it....(one marked w/red connector and one marked black) I assumed were hot+ and common- leads. I will try to locate a diagram that looks like my wiring but any more advice would surely be welcomed at this point. Thanks Ed
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:13 AM   #44
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Ed, my first bit of advice is the trickiest: trace the wires. Start at the Univolt and trace those two back. Find out if they go to the battery. And then trace the wires that are attached to the battery. It's where the battery/univolt connect to the "Other" wires that your fuse block should go. Also, there ought to be a wire coming back from your car. That charges the battery as you drive. I think you're right. Only 3 or 4 fuses should do it for you. Stay tuned for that picture.
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:18 AM   #45
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Breakout pane

Here's that picture of my breakout panel:



One of the blue wires comes from the POS of the Univolt. I think the other comes from the car, or goes to the hitch jack. One of the reds up top comes from the other POS from the Univolt (the one that was marked Battery) and the other red goes right to the battery. Off the top of my head I don't know what the little black wire coming off of the fuse to the right does.

Staring at this for a while, along with the wiring diagram and it starts to make sense, just not this early in the morning.
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Old 05-10-2006, 01:41 PM   #46
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Breakout Panel

John, Your breakout panel looks like it was added on to your trailer. Is that right? It has all the circuit breakers(3), the 12 volt circuit terminal (white wires), and fuse holders (2 on mine), that are mounted to the metal battery tray on my trailer. What I am missing is the panel board that should've been in the front of my Univolt. It doesn't look like one was ever even mounted in it. What I'm wondering is if it is needed or not on my trailer. Maybe Andy from InlandRV will know and answer this for me. I will try to e-mail him on this issue. If it was needed then one of the two previous owners must have removed it from the Univolt. The PO before me had the trailer hard wired to his barn and used it as a business office from 1983 until I bought it in 2004. He claimed that everything was working up to the time his ex-wife had it disconnected from the barn. When I got it home I plugged it in to 120 AC but only the outlets worked. No overhead lights would turn on, so I assumed they only worked if the Univolt was working. Is this correct? Since I had an electric motor repair company check out the Univolt and tell me it would be cheaper to replace it than to repair it, this is what I decided to do. I ordered the new Univolt from InlandRV and have it ready to install. It has two wire taps on the output of the converter (one Plus+ and one Negative-). But the parts site for Inland says you must save the fuse panel from the trailer to re-use with the new Univolt. There is the problem....I think they are referring to the panel that is not inside my old Univolt. What a predicament. Now I need this part out of an old Univolt. Or, should I just connect the two wires that were from the old Univolt to the two terninals on the new Univolt and see what happens? I will trace these two wires first but, I believe they go to the battery and to the 12 volt wiring of the trailer. I'll let you know what I find by tracing them. Ed
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Old 05-10-2006, 02:11 PM   #47
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Well, that panel in mine is original, I'm almost certain. It pretty much matches the wiring diagram from my manual, too.

Yeah, you could probably connect the terminals of the Univolt to the wires in your trailer, but I have several concerns:
1)is it hooked to the battery to provide not just 12 VDC to your coach, but recharges the battery too?
2)You will need to add a fuse, in the amperage of your Univolt, on the line going to the battery.

However, I'd feel more comfortable if you traced your wiring from the univolt and battery to verify that it is hooked, mostly, correctly. If we have to walk you thru building a new breakout panel, I think we can and at minimal cost.
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:59 PM   #48
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Ed,

several other things occured to me today.

1)contact TomW here in the forums. He is a master at restoring his '67 Overlander. Check out his Website.

2)I have seen somewhere to find a small fuse breakout panel. I'll have to look some more.
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:19 PM   #49
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breakout panel

Thanks John, I will check with TomW. The reason I asked if your breakout panel was an add-on is it looks like new. I have nothing that even looks remotely like it on my 67'. Is it near your battery? If you think of anything else let me know. Ed
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Old 05-11-2006, 06:15 AM   #50
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Would this work?

Sounds as if http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...Code=VTS%2D146

might be the product that you need?
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Old 05-11-2006, 06:24 AM   #51
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Yes, the fuse panel is about 8 inches from the battery. Here's a better shot of the trunk:



Sorry it's fuzzy, the light was really low in the camper cover, which is what we call the shelter it's in.

Ed, in addition to the panel that steelbird linked to, which I think you've seen, here's one with only 9 fuses.

Now, if you don't mind spending the 36 bucks, you only have to use as many circuits as you need. Which in your case should only be about three or four, out of the nine.
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Old 05-11-2006, 08:40 AM   #52
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Here's another fuse distribution bar, much less complicated than the others, but requires a grounding buss attached to the chassis somewhere.
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Old 05-11-2006, 08:45 AM   #53
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Hey, and you want small and compact? How about this little baby. This is basically a fuse holder, and you'd still need a grounding bus, but it shore is purty and very small.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:50 AM   #54
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Price is Right

The price is definitely right on this one.http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...DE_FUSES_.html
I have used this company for many things, many times. They are reliable.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:47 PM   #55
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But!!! Here' one with a built in Voltage display. Wonder if it works well?
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