Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-05-2006, 12:19 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
FIRST: Unplug your trailer from the 110v shorepower. Then, if you have a battery in the coach, disconnect the Positive wire to it.

DON'T disconnect your "univolt" until the new one shows up, OR clearly label the VDC outputs as POS and NEG, as they are hooked to the Univolt. The AC is simple. Remove the AC input from your univolt. Hook it up to a 110v outlet that you can buy at any home store like Home Depot. Get an outlet box, cover and the little clampy thing to hold the wire in the box. Your WFCO will plug into that box. Attach the outlet box to a wooden cabinet side or nearby.

When your WFCO arrives it will have a POS and NEG terminal. Attach the VDC wires you labeled POS and NEG to the appropriate terminals. Run a copper wire from the chassis ground on the WFCO and screw the other end into the skin or handy exposed metal surface.

You're done. I'm about to do all of this tomorrow or Sunday and I'll post a photographic account online here and on the Wally Wiki.
__________________

__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 01:28 PM   #30
Rivet Master
 
BIGED52's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,889
Yikes!

My old univolt didn't have the circuit board with the fuses on it in the front of the unit. Now I know why it wouldn't work! That also explains the missing screws and rivets on the covers. I guess I'm going to need that board from an old univolt....ANYONE have one to spare. I got the new univolt from Inland and their site did say to "keep the old fuse panel", but I had no idea what fuse panel they were talking about as mine was already gone when I got the trailer.....HELP! Ed
__________________

__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
BIGED52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 02:32 PM   #31
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Ed, there's no breaker panel anywhere in your coach? There should be. The 67 has a different service area configuration than mine, but if you have the univolt withou the circuit panel, then it's somewhere in your coach, unless it was ripped out for some unknown reason. If it is, you got problems that will take some more experience than mine to solve. But follow the battery cable and see where it leads too. That's where your circuit panel should be.
__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 04:16 PM   #32
2 Rivet Member
 
ibedonc's Avatar
 
1983 31' Excella
Caldwell , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 21
Images: 2
you could use a few of these , and get a replacement for your univolt (Inteli-power 9200)

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...DE_FUSES_.html
__________________
ibedonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 10:09 PM   #33
Rivet Master
 
BIGED52's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,889
Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Ed, there's no breaker panel anywhere in your coach? There should be. The 67 has a different service area configuration than mine, but if you have the univolt withou the circuit panel, then it's somewhere in your coach, unless it was ripped out for some unknown reason. If it is, you got problems that will take some more experience than mine to solve. But follow the battery cable and see where it leads too. That's where your circuit panel should be.
John, I have a circuit breaker box at the rear of my trailer behind the rear access panel. The 30 amp shore power cord connects to it. There are two- 20 amp circuit breakers inside it with the polarity lamp, and an open space for a third breaker. I assume one breaker is for the A/C and the other is for the other 110 volt power in the trailer. Is this what you are talking about? Is that why my univolt didn't have the circuit board with those fuses? I have a set of fuses in the battery compartment that look original to the coach. They look like the circuits they protect are the battery and the line that feeds from the Univolt. Could that be correct? They are both 30 amp glass fuses from what I can see. Is this all I need to run both AC and DC in the trailer. I'm in the blind here without a wiring diagram. I bought a (exterior low voltage yard lighting) power pack to test the 12 volt system before I install the new Univolt. I want to find out if there are any shorts in the system and save my new Univolt from damage until I am sure all the 12 volt items work. My 110 volt outlets all work. I have no overhead lights though...are they 12 volt only? The A/C seems to work but must have a stretched out or broken belt up on the roof. The fan of the A/C unit inside the trailer won't turn even though I hear what sounds like a compressor motor running in the unit up on the roof. But I don't know about the 12 volt system at all yet since the Univolt has never worked since I got the trailer. Does this sound like a good way to test the wiring for the 12 volt system? Let me know what you think. Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
BIGED52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #34
Islay - 63 O.
 
dufferin's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Montreal , -
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 581
Images: 11
Send a message via MSN to dufferin
Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
FIRST: Unplug your trailer from the 110v shorepower. Then, if you have a battery in the coach, disconnect the Positive wire to it.

DON'T disconnect your "univolt" until the new one shows up, OR clearly label the VDC outputs as POS and NEG, as they are hooked to the Univolt. The AC is simple. Remove the AC input from your univolt. Hook it up to a 110v outlet that you can buy at any home store like Home Depot. Get an outlet box, cover and the little clampy thing to hold the wire in the box. Your WFCO will plug into that box. Attach the outlet box to a wooden cabinet side or nearby.

When your WFCO arrives it will have a POS and NEG terminal. Attach the VDC wires you labeled POS and NEG to the appropriate terminals. Run a copper wire from the chassis ground on the WFCO and screw the other end into the skin or handy exposed metal surface.

You're done. I'm about to do all of this tomorrow or Sunday and I'll post a photographic account online here and on the Wally Wiki.
Actually it's already gone,
BTW what VDC mean,
I will be happy to see your pics, because as far as I remember, there's a lot of wire plugged to the univolt, gray, pink, blue, brown, white, black, red, small gauge red with fuse, and the same in black... lot of fun
I am in touch with best converter and I will proceed soon, and I did notice that WFCO come in 35 amp or 45, or more.
Is the 35 is enough or should I go with the 45 (I asked before, but it was about 30 ou 40 so...)
read you soon
__________________
Canadian Atlantic Unit Past President
Protect your dream from others and first yourself...

Few rolling wheels to make our planet a house.

A 1/5th of her that I own.

TAC# : QC-1

my blog

http://rvcampreview.com
dufferin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 10:23 PM   #35
Rivet Master
 
BIGED52's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,889
Vdc

Dufferin, VDC stands for volts direct current. DC current is like from an AC to DC converter or from your battery. fyi Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
BIGED52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 10:36 PM   #36
Islay - 63 O.
 
dufferin's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Montreal , -
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 581
Images: 11
Send a message via MSN to dufferin
ok,
thanks,
__________________
Canadian Atlantic Unit Past President
Protect your dream from others and first yourself...

Few rolling wheels to make our planet a house.

A 1/5th of her that I own.

TAC# : QC-1

my blog

http://rvcampreview.com
dufferin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2006, 08:25 AM   #37
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1968 22' Safari
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 116
"Patio outlet"

Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Do you mean that there is a new outlet put inline with the patio outlet (the one that's on the outside of the trailer, that you plug your patio lights into)? and the Intellipower is plugged into that new outlet?
The curbside compartment where my Univolt once sat has a two-outlet 110VAC socket mounted inside the lockable door, on the right side. I thought this was a standard factory installation for patio lights, but after looking at the schematics I think it may have been custom or PO installed--very sanitary job, BTW. The Intelipower 9160 has a 3-wire plug that I simply plugged into one of the the sockets. I ran the Charge Wizard control up to the headboard and attached it with self-stick backing so that I don't have to go outside to see what's charging.

Keeping the original fuse panel when you trash the old Univolt is pretty sensible. It makes the job of figuring out where the wires go much easier. The wires are mostly stiff copper, and I just have my fuse panel hanging in space by their support.
__________________
26.982 amu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52
John, I have a circuit breaker box at the rear of my trailer behind the rear access panel. The 30 amp shore power cord connects to it. There are two- 20 amp circuit breakers inside it with the polarity lamp, and an open space for a third breaker. I assume one breaker is for the A/C and the other is for the other 110 volt power in the trailer. Is this what you are talking about? Is that why my univolt didn't have the circuit board with those fuses? I have a set of fuses in the battery compartment that look original to the coach. They look like the circuits they protect are the battery and the line that feeds from the Univolt. Could that be correct? They are both 30 amp glass fuses from what I can see. Is this all I need to run both AC and DC in the trailer. I'm in the blind here without a wiring diagram. I bought a (exterior low voltage yard lighting) power pack to test the 12 volt system before I install the new Univolt. I want to find out if there are any shorts in the system and save my new Univolt from damage until I am sure all the 12 volt items work. My 110 volt outlets all work. I have no overhead lights though...are they 12 volt only? The A/C seems to work but must have a stretched out or broken belt up on the roof. The fan of the A/C unit inside the trailer won't turn even though I hear what sounds like a compressor motor running in the unit up on the roof. But I don't know about the 12 volt system at all yet since the Univolt has never worked since I got the trailer. Does this sound like a good way to test the wiring for the 12 volt system? Let me know what you think. Ed
Ed, I'll post a picture of my DC fuseblock/breakout panel later today. Since yours is only a year later than mine, they may be similiar. Does your Univolt, the original, look like this?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	140399553_bdc48fd08e.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	162.0 KB
ID:	21117  
__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2006, 09:01 AM   #39
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by dufferin
Actually it's already gone,
BTW what VDC mean,
I will be happy to see your pics, because as far as I remember, there's a lot of wire plugged to the univolt, gray, pink, blue, brown, white, black, red, small gauge red with fuse, and the same in black... lot of fun
I am in touch with best converter and I will proceed soon, and I did notice that WFCO come in 35 amp or 45, or more.
Is the 35 is enough or should I go with the 45 (I asked before, but it was about 30 ou 40 so...)
read you soon
All of those wires mean that my re-fit isn't going to help you as much as I had hoped. I have only three wires coming out, two DC Positive and one DC negative. I've seen newer univolts have those other wires, but I do not know what they are for. I just saw on the thread I started, Univolt Replacement Wiring, where there is some discussion starting about these extra wires. Hopefully someone will chime in with the answer.
__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2006, 01:00 AM   #40
Rivet Master
 
BIGED52's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,889
Univolt

John, My univolt had no panel inside it as yours shows. The wires thru the side wall were feeds from the converter directly to the large gauge + and -wires going to the the breaker box in the rear of the trailer from what I can tell. There was no panel board with any of the fuses or DC+ or DC-connectors on it inside the my univolt. From your picture it looks like this panel board was mounted in the front of your univolt behind the cover that said univolt on it....Mine has nothing there only wire nuts, and wiring, that goes through the inside divider metal plate, and behind that are the rectifiers and the converter. I guess this panel board must've been removed from my univolt by a PO for some reason. Shouldn't my overhead lights work on AC without the DC Converter? I wish I had an electrical schematic of the wiring for this trailer. It sounds like I'm gonna need that panel board though. Sure hope I can find one. If anyone has one please let me know here or PM me. Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
BIGED52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2006, 09:28 AM   #41
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Ed,

you can get an all new and what looks to be good, wiring panel HERE. This guy knows airstreams. As for wiring diagram...I saw one for a 67 recently, I think, in the electrical section of the forum. Use the search tool. I also might have a trailer wide schematic from our users manual. I'll look. And try to post the promised pictures by this evening.
__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2006, 09:56 AM   #42
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
66 Safari Schematics

Here's the wiring schematics for the '66 Safari. The only thing I don't like about these is the Univolt in the second picture shows four wires coming out, when I know that only three come out. And it's a real goofy schematic. Also, it does not show the trailer brake or hitch jack in this.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Airstreamelectrical1.jpg
Views:	195
Size:	79.5 KB
ID:	21130   Click image for larger version

Name:	Airstreamelectrical2.jpg
Views:	197
Size:	82.1 KB
ID:	21131  

__________________

__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine Revving Problem winner Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 19 02-08-2010 11:05 PM
Univolt FACTS smily Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 69 08-19-2005 12:47 AM
Electrical problem resolved davidz71 Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 5 08-12-2002 09:21 PM
univolt III wiring McGill Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 0 07-05-2002 09:26 PM
Electric Brake Controller Problem Don Brakes & Brake Controllers 4 04-15-2002 02:05 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.