"Power On" indicator

davidz71 · 06-14-2002, 09:08 PM

My '77 Excella 500 31' has a front credenza and curbside flexsteel couch. The Univolt was replaced years ago by previous owners and the compartment below the entertainment center houses a Magnatek converter/charger. I see the cord plugging into a 110 volt receptacle in addition to a red + wire and a black - wire going to the fuse panel. Since my "Power On" light does not light on the control panel over my stove and there isn't another wire coming out of the converter, is there a way to wire the system so that the light will come on when 110 is plugged in? Craig

thenewkid64 · 06-14-2002, 09:16 PM

Before trying the wiring method, check the light in the panel. The indicator light is a molded pop in unit and may have burnt out. I had the one in my 77 Soverign burn out, 15 min job to replace. If you are VERY VERY careful you can slip a thin putty knife under the bottom edge of the light. Prying gently you can pop it out. then check for power there before moving on. It could be something as simple as the PO disconnected it because they hated the red light shining at night

. On the Magntek end your guess is as good as mine. Maybe you can get a manual to see where the indicator light should be connected??

davidz71 · 06-14-2002, 09:23 PM

Thanks Brett,
I just naturally figured that since another wire did not run to the fuse panel from the Magntek, the owners just didn't worry about it. Craig

sudden impact · 08-04-2002, 01:53 PM

where can you get a new bulb from? can t be found at radio shack

thenewkid64 · 08-04-2002, 03:12 PM

It depends on your vintage. In the 70's models the entire little plastic unit bulb and all just pops out and you replace it whole. I know that seasoned dealers have had these. On other years I have no clue.

Stougard · 08-07-2002, 02:55 PM

Craig,

You ask a very good question about the power on light. My 73 Safari is powered off a typical Univolt converter. It hummed so bad and caused so much noise on my radio that I decided to replace the Univolt with an Intellipower Charge Wizard unit. The new converter, like most, only has a 12 volt DC output. When you convert over to a new system you loose Univolt's built in amp meter shunt and the source for the power on indicator. I plan on taking my fuse panel out of the Univolt and add it to the new converter. The shunt is the easy part to convert but the power on indicator source is a different matter. You can't just connect the indicator to the converter's 12V output. If you unplugged the 120VAC, your indicator would still be powered by the battery. My Univolt has a separate output wire just for this indicator. I thought about powering the indicator using a common 120V to 12V power pack available just about everywhere. The power pack could be plugged into a nearby AC outlet. I found another sight on this forum where someone already made the switchover to another type convertor while maintaining his ammmeter and power indicator. Unfortunately he does not say how he was able to keep his power on indicator powered properly. I think I will E-Mail him and ask. His Web site is below:

http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/

Larry

davidz71 · 08-07-2002, 05:20 PM

Larry,
Thanks for giving me more insight into my power-on indicator light. As soon as I saw your suggestion about a 110 to 12 v. converter, I realized that I had not even thought about whether the bulb was 110 v. powered or 12 v. powered. I was stumped at the fuse box. Let me know if you find out anything. I had a bulb burn out on the right side of my control panel and am contemplating pulling the whole thing out to replace some of these bulbs. I was also going to look at/test the power-on bulb to see if it is functional.

Stougard · 08-07-2002, 05:30 PM

Craig,
I just got an E-mail from Tim. His converter had two 12V outputs so it was easy form him to get his working. He also suggested using a 120VAC to 12VDC wall transformer to power the power-on indicator (it's a 12V bulb). That way your indicatior will be on whenever you are hooked up to shore power. Now you just need to locate the nearest AC outlet to connect your transformer to.

Good luck,
Larry

davidz71 · 08-07-2002, 05:39 PM

Am I in luck, I think! I have two 110 volt double outlets, one within one ft. of the converter (it is plugged into this one) and another closer than two ft. to the right of the converter. I may also have an extra 12 volt transformer/converter around the house somewhere if I look hard enough. I'll let you know what happens as soon as I check it out. Thanks for your help.

smily · 08-08-2002, 09:35 PM

My 71 Overalnder has a univolt that seems to work very well. I am very adept at electricity but this one stumps me, maybe someone can help.... My "Power on" lead from the univolt always has 12 volts on it even when it is disconnectied from 120 volt power??????? Does any one know why that is? I would think that the grey wire which is indicated as the "Power on Light" lead at both the univolt and the control panel would only have 12 volts when the battery charger is engaged.

The only technical rational that I have is, that there must be a Diode in the line between the battery charger, (Univolt), and the trailer battery. This would alow the twelve volts +- to flow to the battery and not allow a "back feed" ,if you will, to the charger.

I suspect that the grey lead is getting a "back feed" from the trailer battery even when the charger is disconnected from 120 volts.

Anybody?

davidz71 · 08-09-2002, 06:34 PM

Larry,
I think I fixed my 110 volt electrical problem. Anyway I plugged in the 110 v. to 12 vdc transformer and checked the end of the wire which still has the tubular plug on it. I read just over 12 v. in the center of the plug while the black probe of my test meter was placed on the outside metal of the plug. I put a wire in the center of the plug and ran it to the bottom connection of the fuse panel. I checked the other side of the fuse and it showed the same voltage. I never saw the panel light come on. My question is that it would seem that I have to take the plug off and find the ground or neg. wire to ground it somewhere. Is this right or am I barking up the wrong tree and my bulb is burned out?

thenewkid64 · 08-09-2002, 08:25 PM

Craig,

Her is another use for the meter that you just put away. Check the light for continuity. It should read as a short, or close to zero ohms if the bulb is good. If it is an open then the bulb is BAAAAD.

This needs to be done with the light completley disconnected to be sure.

davidz71 · 08-09-2002, 09:36 PM

Thanks Brett. I'm waiting for a few more comments on my other electrical situation before I go further with the power-on indicator test.

sovereign · 08-09-2002, 11:39 PM

i went too radio shack and bought a lamp holder and 14 volt bulb and mounted it in the place of the old indicater light . works fine