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Old 08-09-2002, 11:53 PM   #15
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Lightbulb

It's strange what you will come up with when you think about it. I ran across one of those 120 to 12vdc transformers that connects to a plastic base which you put on the backing of your book while reading in bed at night. I haven't seen that thing in years. As soon as I plugged it up, the light came on. If worse comes to worse, I'll just mount this somewhere and when the 110/120 is plugged up (if I ever get that fixed before killing myself) the light will come on. Not pretty but functional.
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Old 08-10-2002, 09:13 AM   #16
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David,

While doing some research I came across the electrical description of how the power on indicator works. The indicator always has 12 VDC present at the panel. When your univolt is powered on it gives the indicator a ground path that allows it to light. If you had 12 VDC at the indicator, you may have just had a ground issue at the univolit. My guess is it is the single wire with a 90 degree boot that is grey and connectects to a stud on the univolt.
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Old 08-10-2002, 12:24 PM   #17
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getting closer

Good to know why there is always 12 volts at the indicator.

I do have the grey wire witht the 90 degree boot at the univolt.
It actually connects to a fuse at the univolt. When the fuse is removed, the indicator light goes off.

My manual says that this is the correct wiring for the grey wire to the fuse block.

Now about this ground thing. How does the univolt provide ground to the indicator? is there a solenoid or switch internal to the Univolt that Bridges the ground upon energizing?

I know it seems far fetched but how could the ground drop out when the Univolt is deenergized?

I assume that I am barking up the wrong tree but just trying to understand the ground.

May I ask what reference you have for research?
Thanks for your help

Smily
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Old 08-10-2002, 01:53 PM   #18
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I am reading the Airstream service manual.

In a sub section titled Power on Operation it states

"One lead of the lamp is connected to the (+) Positive 12 VDC of the control panel. The other lead is connected to the univolt thru the remote 120 volt distribution panel.

The circuit is completed to ground only when the converter is on. Since the converter is on only when connected to city power the power on lamp will be on only when city power is connected"

I have to assume that there is an SCR or relay that is activiated within the univolt when it is powered up to feed ground to the light?
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Old 08-12-2002, 07:38 PM   #19
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Posi negi

The light is connected to the negative, (believe or not, white is negatiive on mt trailer) which is correct according to the owners manual.

The other side of the light is connected to the grey wire from the Univolt. which is definitely positive directly from the positive buss which fed from the blue wire at the univolt.

The blue wire is identified as Car battery positive according to the owners manual.

I have confirmed this by removing the fuse from the blue wire to the positive buss. When this fuse is removed, The Power on light is extinguished.

Never the less, I have looked at the white wire at the control panel, ( the one that goes to the Power on light bulb) and it is actually crimped to the same white wire that provides negative to the control panel light. It appears to have been that way from the factory.

I do not seem to have the same wiring as identified in your book?

As to scr or relay at the univolt, I am not certain, I cannot see any relays but I have not opened the univolt.

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Old 08-13-2002, 04:47 PM   #20
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The following is submitted to clear up the confusion about the power on light, the right angle connectors in the univolt, and the univolt.
1. The right angle connectors in the univolt go to the ammeter. Note one bolt can be moved through a slot. That metal plate is a "shunt" for the ammeter. The bolt than can be moved is used to calibrate within reason the ammeter.
2. The power on light "is not wired" to positive voltage on one side and negative on the other.
Checking the wires to the light with the trailer "unplugged" will show positive battery voltage on "both" wires. Since the voltage is the same on both sides of the bulb, there is no current flow through the bulb, and therefore it does not glow.
The positive battery voltage on one side comes direct from the battery. The positive battery voltage on the other side comes from the battery, through the "univolt", and out the power on light circuit to the bulb.
The power on light "is wired" with one side to the positive battery voltage, and the other side to the power on light circuit of the univolt.
Checking the wires to the light with the trailer "plugged in" will show univolt/battery DC voltage on one side and univolt unrectified AC voltage on the other. The reading will practically be the same except one is DC and the other is AC. ie., 12.6 DC one side versus 12.6 AC on the other side. Since there is a voltage potential difference between the wires there is a current flow through the filament and the bulb will glow.
The positive DC battery current on one side comes direct from the battery. The AC current on the other side comes from the transformer windings in the univolt before the current is rectified.
This is also why a Intellicharger will not correctly power the "power on" light.


Andy
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Old 08-13-2002, 05:34 PM   #21
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Thanks Andy,
I had to read your comments several times and almost felt like I was back in Chemistry class. You are thorough in your description and I believe I understand what you are saying. Since my Univolt is long gone and the current Magnatek does not have the capability to work the indicator, I will just plug in my electrical tester which will let me know that AC current is moving through the circuity breaker box to the wall plugs. If I plug in, I will know it anyway but it would have been nice to have it working.
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Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
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Old 08-13-2002, 06:30 PM   #22
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A converter with a new name has been used in Airstream trailers since the end of Feb. 1988. The name is Magnetek, and replaces the Triad/Utrad. The basic design is the same.
All functions and testing remain the same, "EXCEPT", for the power on light circuit. In the past the power on light work on a difference of potential.
With the Magnetek, the power on circuit provides 12 volt DC current to one side of the bulb and the other side is ground. This 12 volt power is picked up from the 18 gauge wire from the converter.
When a Magnetek is used to replace a Triad/Utrad the wiring must be changed at the power on light in the central control panel.
THE PURPLE WIRE TO THE POWER ON BULB "WILL NOT" HAVE TO BE CHANGED. BUT, THE BLACK WIRE WILL HAVE TO BE CUT AND SPLICED INTO ONE OF THE WHITE GROUND WIRES.


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Old 08-13-2002, 07:55 PM   #23
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Patience

Ahh,
Patience has finally paid off. I have been hoping that Andy would have some experience in this issue and it is apparent that he has.

Thanks for the assist and clearing the record Andy.

Smily
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:52 AM   #24
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power-on indicator with intellipower

hi- using the info from everybody in past threads, I re-wired the power-on light so it works with the new intellipower converter. I'll just try to briefly describe the process that worked in my '72 OL. I plugged in a little radio shack-type converter meant for a radio scanner into the same outlet I have the IP converter plugged into (which I have on a separate breaker from all the other wall outlets in the trailer). I cut off the end plug of that converter, and attached one lead to the gray wire coming from the bundle, meant for the power-on light. the other lead I ran to ground (screwed it into the C-channel). Up in the control panel, I did more or less as Andy suggested by leaving the gray wire attached to the bulb socket as-is, but taking the white wire off of the battery-check switch and going to a white ground with it. Now the light comes on when the 110 circuit for the IP is fired up, goes off when it is on battery-only. Couldn't figure out how to do it using only the IP. Hope this helps some of you other obsessive-with-detail types;-) have fun- tim
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