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Old 06-12-2019, 02:38 PM   #1
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2016 25' Flying Cloud
Huntington , New York
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Positive Buss Bar on 2016 FC 25FB

During the course of figuring out how to route the wires and locate the equipment for a DIY solar installation, I needed to understand the positive buss bar configuration. Should I connect my solar controller to this bar and if so, where? This post is for the next person searching for information about the bus bar and wanting to know what it does.

The Electrical Diagram on page 8-19 of the 2016 Users Manual describes this block as having Type 2 Breakers on the bottom row and lists the amperage's going left to right as 50A, 50A, 30A and 20A. A Type 2 Breaker will trip when the amperage going across it exceeds what it's rated to handle. For sake of conversation, I'll call this the amperage threshold. The breaker will not reset until the amperage drops below the amperage threshold. The practical impact of this knowledge is that the wire gauge that you connect to each of these studs needs to be able to handle a current flow equal to, or greater than, the amperage that each breaker is rated for. Otherwise you will have a situation where the breaker won't trip before the wire melts.

From left to right on the bottom row, the studs are connected to:
6-gauge wire feeding battery
6-gauge wire feeding the left side of the battery cutoff switch
10-gauge wire feeding the 7-way trailer connection box
12-gauge wire feeding the Break-Away switch

On the top row, where all the studs are connected by a common copper bar, there is only one cable attached and that is the LP/CO2 detector. Since that bar doesn't have a Type 2 breaker, anything connected to it would have to be fused in-line somewhere.

One of the things you can take away from all this is that at the very least, the 7-Way trailer connection box, the Break-Away switch and the LPT detector aren't disconnected when the Battery Cutoff Switch is engaged. Just to complete the list, since the Electric Hitch Jack and the Inverter are connected directly to the battery positive terminal post, those two items also aren't disconnected when the battery cutoff switch is put into STORE mode.


OH ... Some people connect the Solar Charge Controller to the top copper bus bar and others just run a cable directly to the battery. Either is OK. The logic for that decision is left to a different post.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:19 PM   #2
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2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
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Positive Buss Bar on 2016 FC 25FB

My solar charge line is simply connected to the input side of the use/store relay. One of these days I’ll add a cutoff switch and a fuse.

Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:44 PM   #3
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Apollo Beach , Florida
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My solar is connected to the copper bar side of the positive busbar.
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2017 Flying Cloud 25FB (Miles) 266 nights (6/16/19) 35,133 miles
400W Solar, 230AH 6V Batteries, PD4655 Converter, Champion DualFuel Generator, ProPride 1400# Hitch, 16" Michelin's, TM66 TPMS
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