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Old 02-17-2007, 06:26 PM   #1
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Plugging in At Home

I have 20 amp circuits at home. Trailer needs 30 amp to run the big stuff. Can an electric dryer outlet be adapted?
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:28 PM   #2
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Typically, electric dryer outlets are 220 volts.


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Old 02-17-2007, 06:34 PM   #3
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I leave my unit plugged in at home on a 20 amp. It will power everything excluding the old armstrong Ac unit.
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henw
I have 20 amp circuits at home. Trailer needs 30 amp to run the big stuff. Can an electric dryer outlet be adapted?
Your trailer operates on 120V (commonly called 110V) - the dryer circuit is 240V (commonly called 220V). So - do not use that outlet for your trailer. A new trailer outlet and surface mount box will cost under $25 form Home Depot, 10 guage wire is not that expensive per foot and you can have a length under 75 feet without any problem with voltage drop. The 30 amp breaker will cost under $10. Now - if you have to hire an electrician, that's where your cost will rise - but this is a simple addition if local codes allow you to do your ownn electrical. If they don't - mount the box run your wires and have the breaker ready - minimize the work an electrician has to do and just have him pop in th breaker.

As stated above - you can get an adaptor for your trailer shore cable and use a regular household circuit - just don't use your AC or plug in too much stuff.
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Old 02-18-2007, 05:09 AM   #5
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Plugging in At Home

Thanks for the advice.
Will check out supplies at Home Depot...... with final work by an electrician.
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:09 AM   #6
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henw

please make absoulutely sure you tell your electrician that he is working on a 120 VOLT 30 AMP CIRCUIT!

a few members have had their trailers damaged after electricians have looked at the receptical and ASSUMED it was 240 volt!

you might get a stupid look from your electricain but it is better to be safe than sorry!

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Old 02-18-2007, 08:16 AM   #7
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Another 20 amp guy here I do have a 30amp 120v circuit for traveling salesmen and fellow Airstreamers to use . But my unit is only plugged into a 20 amp circuit unless I need to run the A/C.

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Old 02-18-2007, 09:15 AM   #8
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There is a way to cheat a little bit when it comes to plugging in at home. You can take the refigerator out of the mix by going into the the outside access box, unplugging from the trailer electrical system and plugging into an extension cord that goes to a house outlet that is not on the same circuit as the rest of the trailer. Even though I have a 30 amp outlet set up at the house, I still sometimes use this trick when I am when I using the A/C and a lot of 110 stuff in the Airstream.
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:30 AM   #9
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Everything considered, it is best to run a separate circuit...either DIY or hire an electrician. It solves a lot of problems. I ran a 30 amp circuit off my shop (200 amp service) to an outside RV plug. Works Fine.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:18 AM   #10
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I agree with others who post it is best to run a separate circuit dedicated to the RV. Finally after several years of not having the comfort of running the AC when cleaning or preparing the camper, I finally ran the 10 gauge wire, installed a RV receptacle and had an electrician to install the 120 volt, 30 amp breaker. Probably one of the best things I could have done.
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Old 02-18-2007, 06:03 PM   #11
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Thanks all. I am calling the electrician in the a.m. Should be an easy set up as the main box enters house right next to where trailer parked. 120v, 30 amp.
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTW
Everything considered, it is best to run a separate circuit...either DIY or hire an electrician. It solves a lot of problems. I ran a 30 amp circuit off my shop (200 amp service) to an outside RV plug. Works Fine.
Rgds,
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I agree, its best to bite the bullet and have an electrician run some wire from your 200 amp home box with a 30 amp plug designed for your trailer. Then ya know its done the way it should be and if your house burns down MAYBE your Insurance Co. won't blame it on you?

I am going even further. I am purchasing a Honda EU6500is. I am using it for a house backkup also. I will mount it in the back of the truck on a HIWAY PRODUCTS gorilla slide. It holds 2000# and you just slide it out...with the genny on it and ...all is good. There is a table hoist that I am looking at. I will lift 600# with a foot pump to bed height so I don't have to lift it in and out of the truck. When I was a young buck the 256# Honda would have been nothing to lift in the back of the truck......but thats why my back is bad now.
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFord79
I agree, its best to bite the bullet and have an electrician run some wire from your 200 amp home box with a 30 amp plug designed for your trailer. Then ya know its done the way it should be and if your house burns down MAYBE your Insurance Co. won't blame it on you?

I am going even further. I am purchasing a Honda EU6500is. I am using it for a house backkup also. I will mount it in the back of the truck on a HIWAY PRODUCTS gorilla slide. It holds 2000# and you just slide it out...with the genny on it and ...all is good. There is a table hoist that I am looking at. I will lift 600# with a foot pump to bed height so I don't have to lift it in and out of the truck. When I was a young buck the 256# Honda would have been nothing to lift in the back of the truck......but thats why my back is bad now.
I use one of those hydraulic table lifts almost every day to load and unload heavy roof airs and other weighty parts into my service van. They ROCK!
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:37 AM   #14
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one more thing..............

Don't forget to add a transfer switch to yoiur main breaker box if you intend to use your Honda as a house back-up generatator. They are required in a lot of locations, and just make sense as the best safety feature when running a gen-set for your house.
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