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Old 05-02-2016, 08:08 AM   #1
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Outlets don't work...after battery changed out

So, I changed out my batteries, and everything works except my outlets.... the inverter outlet works fine (tv connected to that one). I noticed the GFCB breaker that is connected to the outlets; the test button will no longer set off the breaker... Do you need a power load on a breaker to get the test button to work? I am think it is either a bad breaker, or my shorepower was not connected properly to my house,,,,(ie loose cord)..... any thoughts for a novice airstream dude....???
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:11 AM   #2
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So, I changed out my batteries, and everything works except my outlets.... the inverter outlet works fine (tv connected to that one). I noticed the GFCB breaker that is connected to the outlets; the test button will no longer set off the breaker... Do you need a power load on a breaker to get the test button to work? I am think it is either a bad breaker, or my shorepower was not connected properly to my house,,,,(ie loose cord)..... any thoughts for a novice airstream dude....???
Hello from central KY and welcome to the forum.

You don't need a load on the outlet to test GFCI but you do need AC voltage. How are you connecting to your house? 20-30 amp adapter (dog bone) or do you have a 30 amp service plug? sounds like you don't have any AC at all. Does the microwave clock work?
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:24 AM   #3
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Thanks Rich, I am converting my 30amp plug to a 20amp plug and its a bit klunky, so I am now wondering if I was actually running off of battery the whole time..... That will be my first trial. The microwave is not working either.... I ordered a new breaker just in case, but I am thinking I was not getting any AC power... I did check the plug from the house, and it works,,, but the klunky adapters, could be the problem
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:18 AM   #4
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Batteries do not generally supply 110 volts to the outlets. An invertor may be wire to selective outlets. If those outlest are dead even when the batteries are charged I would check the fuse/breaker at the invertor. You have to be plugged into a source for all 110 volt outlet to work.

First check the connection at the house to be sure you have power there. If yes check the circuit breakers in the panel.

If the GFI will not set and test you do not have power to it.
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:45 PM   #5
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Thanks Rich, I am converting my 30amp plug to a 20amp plug and its a bit klunky, so I am now wondering if I was actually running off of battery the whole time..... That will be my first trial. The microwave is not working either.... I ordered a new breaker just in case, but I am thinking I was not getting any AC power... I did check the plug from the house, and it works,,, but the klunky adapters, could be the problem
If the house plug is hot and the microwave clock isn't on, then somewhere along the wire you have an open wire. Please make sure you use a 3-wire extension cord, 12 or 14 gauge wire and don't run the A/C. You can use a multi-meter to check continuity from one end to the other for each cord in the string (safer than checking the voltage). Don't use one of those 3-prong to 2-prong adapters on the garage connection. It needs to be a regular grounded plug.

Unplug from both ends and check your connection to the AS. It should go on, then a slight turn to the right to lock, then screw down the retainer ring to make a good connection. Then go back to the garage connection and plug it in again.

Note: Once the AC is connected, to charge the batteries you need the Use/Store switch to be in Use.
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Old 05-02-2016, 02:07 PM   #6
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The simplest solution is often the best because it is simple and the problem is often there. Here is sounds like you are not getting 120 to the trailer from the house and has nothing to do with changing the batteries. Do you have any type of tester? A cheap little neon tester (should be quite a bit less than $10) will tell you whether the house receptacle is hot. If it is, then the adapter or the cable to the trailer are the problem. If not those, it is further along the circuit. Test each part of the circuit, moving from the house circuit (you can check the breaker in the house too) to the trailer. Once you detect where the break is in a wire, receptacle or somewhere else, then you know what to fix or replace. You start where the power comes from, possibly going back to the breaker box if the receptacle is not hot. An alternative to a tester is getting lamp and plugging it into the house receptacle and seeing if it lights up. If it does, the problem is somewhere along the line to the 120 v. receptacles in the trailer. The adapter and cable to the trailer as well as at the converter are all possibilities, but you will need a tester.

120 v. will, literally, shock you, so be careful. If you are not familiar with electricity, the options are either the expensive option of hiring an electrician to check things out or buying a book about electricity. Richter is a reasonably priced booklet on residential wiring and will teach you a lot. I'm sure there plenty on the internet too, but Richter gives you a source for information that is easy to bring with you.

If you wish to spend more, get a good quality (not the cheapest) multi tester that you can use to check 12 v. DC in the trailer too as well as amperage and discontinuity in a circuit.

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Old 05-02-2016, 03:33 PM   #7
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Is it possible that the breaker in the house is tripped.? Happened to me.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:22 PM   #8
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Ok, thank you all for your guidance.... I solved the problem, and a little embarrassed to say. The shore power cord is old and worn, so when I hooked it to the AS, I did not totally lock the plug in, and it never made contact... Hence, no 120v.... Change to a new cord..... Success! Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 05-03-2016, 01:15 PM   #9
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New cords aren't cheap, but an easy fix. We have the same trailer and had to change our cord last year. The locking ring had broken a while back, but we made it work until the insulation broke away from the plug and electrical tape wasn't strong enough.

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