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Old 08-28-2013, 12:54 PM   #1
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One 12-volt wire no longer has power

I no longer have power coming off one of the wires in my 12-volt fuse box. I've checked all the fuses, and they are good. Replaced them anyway just in case. Put a voltmeter on it, and it's dead. What else should I check? Is there something else I'm not thinking about? My water pump, thermostat, bath lights and water heater are affected by this.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:00 PM   #2
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Check the connection on the wire. Pull it off clean off any corrosion, and put it back together. Check the fuse connections for corrosion as well.

Are you getting power before the fuse? Do you have a pic?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:15 PM   #3
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I do not have power before the fuse. It's just the one, all the others in the box have power.


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Check the connection on the wire. Pull it off clean off any corrosion, and put it back together. Check the fuse connections for corrosion as well.

Are you getting power before the fuse? Do you have a pic?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #4
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Ok, I "jiggled" the prong that holds the fuse and it flickered on and off. So, there must be a bad connection there.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #5
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Can you trace the wire back to where it ties into the batter/charger? When you say fuse, you mean the fuse panel?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #6
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Well, I am checking the wire at the fuse panel. I have the old tube type fuses/fuse panel. I don't know much about these, but it appears the main power lead off the battery delivers power to a bottom metal strip vs. individual wires. Fuses connect off this metal strip to individual wires. So, it seems the fuse prong that is attach to the metal strip is losing ground or something. This is all purely a guess.


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Can you trace the wire back to where it ties into the batter/charger? When you say fuse, you mean the fuse panel?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #7
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It is common that the fuse holders on the older round, clip in fuses go bad. Often the clip is either corroded, or it is riveted to the main buss, and that connection fails.

The easiest fix is to put a single plug in modern fuse holder in place of the one you are having problems with. But, be prepared to do it with other fuses as the unit ages more. The real solution is a new 12 volt fuse panel.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:10 PM   #8
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I am having similar issue - I took beloved trailer on 14 mile stretch of gravel road (minimal washboards but still not smooth either), and while accustomed to a few loose screws after such a road, this time I also lost power to one 12V light circuit. I have checked the fuse, and even moved the wire to another vacant post, to no avail. Might something be "grounding out" the circuit? 2011 19" Bambi - so perhaps naively believe wiring should be intact. What to check next? Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:35 PM   #9
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I would guess if a wire was grounding out it would be blowing the fuse. Are you getting power before and after the fuse?
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:45 PM   #10
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Sounds like corrosion or wear at the fuse holder itself. Since you could jiggle things and get a voltage reading, sounds like corrosion or wear at the fuse holder itself. Sometimes you can clean these up, or adjust the spring (I assume there is one) and get things working again. You may have to replace it. My suspicions are that radio shack would have something that would mount in a panel, and be an appropriate replacement.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I am having similar issue - I took beloved trailer on 14 mile stretch of gravel road (minimal washboards but still not smooth either), and while accustomed to a few loose screws after such a road, this time I also lost power to one 12V light circuit. I have checked the fuse, and even moved the wire to another vacant post, to no avail. Might something be "grounding out" the circuit? 2011 19" Bambi - so perhaps naively believe wiring should be intact. What to check next? Thanks.
In addition to a 'power' issue, it could be corrosion, or a perhaps a loose/open wire on the ground side. I would look at the back of each light in the string. Plus where the light (string) connects to ground. Check your owners manual to see if there is a wiring diagram that shows how and where things are wired.

If the lights are in series, one light could take out the entire string. If it is wired in parallel, then I suspect you have an open power lead prior to the first light.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:21 PM   #12
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Can you please expand on what a open power lead is? I'm not sure i understand how that would work.

Thanks!
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:45 PM   #13
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There are 4 conditions
1. open= think of a switch when "off" the circuit is "open" and no power flows same as a broken wire.

2. short= a direct connection between the supply voltage (positive) and ground (negative) by passing the device to be powered, results in a blown fuse.

3. intermittent= a temporary condition such as a loose connection when disturbed it makes a temporary connection and power flows for a few seconds or sometimes until the connection is disturbed again.

4. resistive connection= think of your shore plug with corroded prongs the corrosion will not let the power flow at full strength and usually causes heat at the point of corrosion and low voltage in the camper.

Your problem sounds like an intermittent possibly caused by corrosion or a bad connection between the fuse holder and bus bar.
The bus bar is where the power to one side of all fuses are connected.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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What Gary said. And said well!
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