I don't have any photos of my old fuse block in the Sovereign
, but I still use the shunt on it (that's the only thing on that fuse block that I use). So it's mounted back behind the kitchen cabinets on the wall. The new fuse block is brought forward to the front of the cabinet so I can easily get at all the fuses. Note that the battery line (40 Amp fuse) and tow vehicle line (25 Amp fuse) are protected with shrink insulation at the connector, just in case they should come loose and then contact the metal cabinets. That's not necessary for the converter line, since it's individually fused at the converter and the converter has the ability to auto-detect a short and shut itself down.
In the Caravel
I just mounted the fuse block to the top of the converter. The Caravel
has two batteries (the blue fuses), a tow vehicle charge line(white fuse), and only three circuits in the trailer (the fuses on the right). The converter is attached to the fuse block via the main bus bolt, since it doesn't need to be fused due to the fact that it has its own fuse.
I've never had a problem with the push-on connectors coming loose, but my wires are restrained a few inches away from the fuse blocks either by grommets or clips, even though that's not so obvious in the photos.
You could throw away your old fuse block and make a very simple set of connections to a fuse block like this and the only thing you'd lose is the battery ammeter.
One really great thing about this setup is that you can disconnect a battery just by pulling a single fuse. No need to buy a $25 battery disconnect switch!