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Old 05-18-2010, 04:11 PM   #29
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latest update...

i know you guys have been dying to know what is happening here... yeah, right...

anyhow, i got a circuit tester and tried on the tv. good to go there. everything is working. took kevin's advice (thanks, bubba) and went and bought a new plug for the trailer end of the towing lights. next thing is to plug it in and see what color does what (or not)...

while on the subject, do you guys know what color wire does what on this lichen encrusted '63? i have looked around on the web and this site but so far have come up short, pardon the pun.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:56 PM   #30
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as long as you have the correct ground wire (usually white, follow it to ground to make sure) I dont think it will hurt to send current to the wrong place so you can try diff. connections, (any electrical pros out there correct me if I'm wrong) And I think the color codes I gave you are correct and will work. Again green-running, red-lft turn, brn-rt turn blk-stop, yellow-brake, blue-charge line...Dont forget to tape your battery terminal so it doesn't short out.
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G1obetrotter View Post

while on the subject, do you guys know what color wire does what on this lichen encrusted '63? i have looked around on the web and this site but so far have come up short, pardon the pun.
i'm not sure if this will help but a lot of diagrams are in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ram-35972.html
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:49 AM   #32
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Don't leave the power on the brakes too long. They are not designed to be powered continuously.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:57 PM   #33
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good news bad news...

the good news is i got some of the lights to work. the bad news is that when the brake pedal is depressed on the tv, the wrong lights are coming on.

in detail:

without putting on the brake, left and right turns are working as well as both left and right coming on when the brake is engaged. so far so good. (this was a great moment btw as im sure you all understand...)

no running lights at all still.

my coach has 2 bulbs in each back lens, the larger of the 2 is on the bottom, has 2 wires coming from it, and is the one that is blinking/coming on when you turn or brake. the smaller of the 2 sits higher in the lens, has only 1 wire, i'm assuming these are the runners. no light at all from these.

now here is where it gets weird. when you have the brake engaged and indicate a turn at the same time, for example a left, both left and right blink with the brighter blink coming from the wrong side, ie- in this case the right is blinking brighter than the left. if it were working correctly the left would blink brighter and the right would be on steady. i see on these lower bulbs there are 2 wires:
brown and black on the left,

red and black on the right.

if black is the brake then when you have the brake on both lights should come on, which they do. but when you signal left or right it gets funky as i described already.

being that my electrical skills do not far exceed the ability to put batteries in the right way, i am pleased with todays work but, as to what to do next, im once again baffled.

what would you guys do?
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:58 AM   #34
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Wire colors

Don't know if AS used todays color code or not. There should be at least 7 wires in your trailers original wiring.

On my '74 Argosy the manual shows the following:
White = Ground
Blue = Charge Line
Yellow = Brakes
Brown = Right Turn
Red = Left Turn
Black = Tail
Green = Marker

Todays Color code is as follows:
White = Ground
Blue = Brake
Green = Tail, License, Running
Black = Battery Charge
Red = Left Turn and Brake Lights
Brown = Right Turn and Brake Lights
Yellow = Auxillary

I think you should start with the original wiring in the trailer and identify the colors for each circuit. The pig tail going to the TV could have been replaced by a PO and the colors don't match the original wiring.
Make certain you have a good ground, if you can locate where it (the white wire) is attached to the trailer frame, take the connection apart and clean all of the rust and corrosion off, then reassemble the connection.
Take one circuit at a time. I find it easier to use a meter to see if you actually have power at each of the devices. Most meters have sharp points on the probes that can penatrate the corrosion and make connection. The old bulb sockets tend to be kind of touchy meaning sometimes they make connection if the bulb is fiddled with. This is really apparent with the marker lights.
The chances are good that the internal trailer wiring is still OK. If you can get one marker light to work, then they should all work with some fiddling.
All of the light fixtures are grounded throught the skin of the trailer. Some of them are only grounded by one mounting screw, the one with the metal band. Remove the mounting screw, clean the metal band where the screw hole is, then clean the screw and reinstall it. Make sure the screw is tight, but don't strip the hole out.
Clean the surfaces where the bulbs contact the sockets and make sure the filaments are good in the bulbs.
In the process of trouble shooting, when you get one problem solved look at all of the other lights to make sure nothing weird is going on like dim filaments etc.
Once you get the original circuits identified then you can install the plug on the trailer pig tail wired to match the TV. You can use a battery charger to provide power to check everything out.
Good Luck
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:01 AM   #35
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good mornin, tg, and thanks for the reply. yeah, i rewired the plug on the coach and the colors are arranged correctly. i will try to fiddle with the running lights today.

what i am still scratching my head about here is why the opposite side is blinking brighter when the brake and turn signal are switched on. for example, when the brake is engaged and the left turn is also, what happens here is that both the bulbs blink with the RIGHT bulb blinking brighter than the left. what should happen is that just the LEFT bulb should be blinking, otherwise it looks like i have the hazards on.

how hard is it to convert to led's? since i know both the black, red, and brown wires are getting juice, i could replace the current 2 pole bulb with 2 separate leds, one for brakes and one for turns.

as for the running lights (4 teardrops on either side of the coach, the 2 upper bulbs in the back lenses, and the lic. plate light), on my gt one of the teardrops doesnt have a cover on it and is pretty rusty, to the point where i cant get the bulb out of the socket. the lic plate light looks pretty intact. the 2 upper bulb housings in the back lenses are funky too. in detail:

brown/red wire goes into socket, then there is a spring capped by an insulating wafer with the positive pole coming through the middle. the trouble with my coach is that these have both come loose from the wafer so the pole isnt making contact with the bulb. without being attached to the wafer i doubt that it is making contact, it just kind of dangles inside there and looks like it would be a pita to fix it since it is small awkward space and im unsure about what kind of adhesive i would use to reseat the positive pole. might just be easier to replace the entire bulb housing. this might be a necessity when repairing my rusty side running light, too...

this opens the next can of worms: rivets. i would need to remove the old housing and then re-rivet back the replacement. i have never worked with rivets before. ill look around the boards here for info on how to's but if you have rivet wisdom, feel free to share it here if you want.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:07 PM   #36
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Head Scratching

This indicates to me that there is not a proper ground and the current is finding a return path through alternate routes causing other lights to be on when they should not be. When I mentioned the pig tail and wiring errors I was not refering to the plug being wired wrong.The pigtail was probably changed over the years and had to be spliced into the original trailer wiring. If the colors of the wires at the splice are miss match, this could be a lot of your problems especially if your trailer is wired like my Argosy. The colors are different than todays standards. While LED's are a viable upgrade, they won't solve a wiring problem. In one of the photos you posted I noticed a white wire that was not connected to anything it was just taped off. Can you identify where that wire goes?
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:23 PM   #37
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About the bulbs.

You mentioned that you have 2 bulbs in each fixture. Is the bulb with the single wire covered with the part of the lense that is white or clear, if not it is just an additional tail light. In the fixture that has two wires, you should notice that the bulb has 2 filaments. These filaments are staggered inside the bulb. Normally the filament farthest from the base of the bulb is the brake/turn signal. The one closest to the base is the tail light. On your next attempt, let us know which filaments are lighting up when and are bright or dim. What happens when you turn on the head light switch in the TV? You can pull the switch out just far enough for the parking lights to come on in the TV, that way your head lights are off and it's not such a drain on the TV battery. Let us know what happens.
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:29 PM   #38
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The light on the breaker box should only come on if something is wrong with the polarity on the 110v system. I agree with checking the ground.

The battery box for the 12v system on my '63 Globetrotter (Ohio built) is located on the curb side.
Except if one rewires the light to indicate the box is live. That is what I did. I love that little orange light and wish it was in a more prominent place.
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Old 06-21-2010, 11:16 PM   #39
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the end of the rope draws nearer...

hello electric fans,

<sigh> another afternoon bumbling with wires, bulbs, battery chargers, and 2 different voltage testers/meters with pitiful results. when i hooked up the pigtail to the tv the other day lights were coming on though not in the way old Wally had envisioned. today, the voltage meter/tester-battery charger thing experiments were all negative for any current. the needle never moved and the little light in the tester never came on, i know im not doing something right since i know that some of the lights work. just cant figure out what it is.

i think the tiny amount of electrical knowledge i possess is probably the major cause. i need to have somebody look at this multicolored rat nest of wires who actually can make heads or tails of why things arent quite working out.

thanks for all your encouragement and advice but i think its time to let the checkbook take care of this problem. i am on a timeline to get my as road worthy for a trip im planning in august. at the rate im going my poor coach will never leave my driveway. i am gonna make a couple of calls and find out how painful this might be financially.

maybe ill call kevin tomorrow first, though... (hope you got your phone on k)

hope, after all, springs eternal
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:22 AM   #40
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:43 PM   #41
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life...

got busy yesterday with other crap. imagine. he he. kevin, ill give you a buzz sometime in the next couple a three days.
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:31 PM   #42
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Ammeters must be placed in the path of current aka in series. You must break the line and put the meter in between the connection you broke where the red lead would connect to current coming in and the black lead to current leaving, don't worry if you get it wrong, it'll just read negative, but you must disconnect the line first, and be sure to have the appliance(s) you are testing ON when you read current. But if I was you, I'd be using the continuity tester, and voltmeter function of your multimeter to troubleshoot this problem.

I had a similar problem with my tail lights, and it comes down to bad grounding of the lights through the housing to the shell due to oxidation and age. You should clean/repair these connections as best you can and reconnect, or even fashion a grounding strap attached to your trailer. Since work on the taillights anyways has to be done anyways, consider the LED upgrade; it looks very nice!

For your running lights, you should read 12V if you take off the lens and measure across the bulb; if no, remove the entire running light housing, there should be a single (green?) wire coming out of your shell; with your running lights ON, connect the red lead of your DMM to the wire coming from the shell and your black lead to the shell. If you read nothing, the problem is a break in the circuit closer to the TV connector; check your connections with a continuity tester (ohm meter), and you will find the break where there is an infinite amount of resistance measured between two points you know should be connected electrically e.g. your tow connector running light wire and your wire coming out of your shell under the running lights.

Good Luck!
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