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Old 08-22-2011, 11:01 AM   #15
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Sure you can do it without another energy source such as propane, but it appears those using only electric have another energy source—diesel. You could do it with a gas generator, but you'll need a generator for when the campground power goes out. You will need heating near the water tanks and that will have to be electric. The propane furnace has heat ducts to the tanks and you will have to supplement or replace those.

Solar may not be enough unless you want to spend many thousands on many panels plus a big inverter and lots of batteries. On stormy, dark days you will need a generator.

If you are camped somewhere without an electric hookup and have to use a generator a lot, your neighbors will not be happy. A big solar setup can solve that unless the weather is bad.

Jeff summed it up well in post #2.

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Old 08-22-2011, 11:26 AM   #16
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I need to start building my own brand of super sneaky extra quiet generators.
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:51 AM   #17
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I need to start building my own brand of super sneaky extra quiet generators.
Nuclear is quiet.

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Old 08-22-2011, 12:12 PM   #18
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Nuclear is quiet.

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Yeah, but then you need an HD tow vehicle for the reactor and you know that just beats the tar out of the Airstream.
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:43 PM   #19
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If you go all-electric wouldn't that mean that you could also eliminate the 12V system? My idea would be to eliminate the propane and 12V, and eliminate the generator. Would only work if you were in a campground. Not a good idea for extended stays, but if you were using a small (16 foot?) trailer, only camping for a few days at a time and stayed in temperate (non-freezing) areas, it might work. And limiting yourself to campgrounds with full hook-ups would also mean that you could greatly reduce the size of the freshwater tank and combine the gray and black water tanks into one small tank (in case you wanted to use the toilet while you were between campgrounds.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:03 PM   #20
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If you want to sell it someday, the more different it is, the harder it will be to sell.

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Old 08-22-2011, 02:13 PM   #21
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If you want to sell it someday, the more different it is, the harder it will be to sell.

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Old 08-22-2011, 03:28 PM   #22
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If you had an electric stove, furnace, fridge and hot water heater, it would require separate circuits of at least 20 amps each. Since most parks are 30 amps, it would be impossible to fire everything at once. Let's not even think of the roof air!
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Old 08-22-2011, 04:08 PM   #23
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You could use all three receptacles on the pedestal—one circuit on 20 amps, 2 on 30, 3 on 50, or any other combination that gives you enough on each circuit.

But an electric stove and oven for residential use takes 50 amps so you may have to look for a smaller one for an apartment that may been a 30 amp.

You could do it, but you'd have to turn things on and off and it would be best to have a 100 amp source. If you never move the trailer, this is workable.

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Old 08-22-2011, 07:38 PM   #24
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:08 PM   #25
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Rather than a full-on electric range I was thinking of a magnetic induction hotplate (110v, 10 -15 amps? I think Williams-Sonoma sells them) and/or an electric grille, also 110v.
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:15 PM   #26
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You guys got me changing decisions faster than a kid looking at 31 flavors of ice cream!


I'm still leaning towards the use of electric...

Rewire for 50A service, if only 30A/20A are available I will adapt both for use in separate circuits.

Electric A/C (duh)
Electric refrigerator (110A/C & 12D/C compatible)
Electric cook top (induction hotplate actually)
Electric toaster oven (we don't use our microwave or oven in the home after getting a good toaster oven, for those not in the know; god's gift I tell you, god's gift...)


LP Water Heater
LP Catalytic Heater (electric ceramic heaters when on FHU)


I'm not going crazy with a big inverter and battery banks or solar, this is going to be a plush queen of the campground kinda rig. Screw resale.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:31 PM   #27
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You guys got me changing decisions faster than a kid looking at 31 flavors of ice cream!


this is going to be a plush queen of the campground kinda rig. Screw resale.
We intend to keep you spinning. Sounds like you know what you wantógo for it.

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Old 08-25-2011, 01:18 PM   #28
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I bought an inductive single burner (Newegg deal for $60 delivered) and can report they eat electricity on the highest setting (14 amps) but will boil water 40 seconds faster than our inverter-style Panasonic microwave on high will, and that is uncovered in a 12" frying pan versus pyrex measuring cup in the microwave.

I plan on a 20-Amp outlet under the galley counter just for a couple of inductive cook plates, and I am trying for solar power independence but no one says they have to be used on the highest setting!

A toaster-oven with the convection style heater might be a decent compromise to a traditional oven, but they are power hungry.
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