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Old 08-22-2011, 01:13 PM   #21
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If you want to sell it someday, the more different it is, the harder it will be to sell.

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Old 08-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #22
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If you had an electric stove, furnace, fridge and hot water heater, it would require separate circuits of at least 20 amps each. Since most parks are 30 amps, it would be impossible to fire everything at once. Let's not even think of the roof air!
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Old 08-22-2011, 03:08 PM   #23
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You could use all three receptacles on the pedestal—one circuit on 20 amps, 2 on 30, 3 on 50, or any other combination that gives you enough on each circuit.

But an electric stove and oven for residential use takes 50 amps so you may have to look for a smaller one for an apartment that may been a 30 amp.

You could do it, but you'd have to turn things on and off and it would be best to have a 100 amp source. If you never move the trailer, this is workable.

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Old 08-22-2011, 06:38 PM   #24
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:08 PM   #25
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Rather than a full-on electric range I was thinking of a magnetic induction hotplate (110v, 10 -15 amps? I think Williams-Sonoma sells them) and/or an electric grille, also 110v.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:15 PM   #26
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You guys got me changing decisions faster than a kid looking at 31 flavors of ice cream!


I'm still leaning towards the use of electric...

Rewire for 50A service, if only 30A/20A are available I will adapt both for use in separate circuits.

Electric A/C (duh)
Electric refrigerator (110A/C & 12D/C compatible)
Electric cook top (induction hotplate actually)
Electric toaster oven (we don't use our microwave or oven in the home after getting a good toaster oven, for those not in the know; god's gift I tell you, god's gift...)


LP Water Heater
LP Catalytic Heater (electric ceramic heaters when on FHU)


I'm not going crazy with a big inverter and battery banks or solar, this is going to be a plush queen of the campground kinda rig. Screw resale.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:31 AM   #27
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You guys got me changing decisions faster than a kid looking at 31 flavors of ice cream!


this is going to be a plush queen of the campground kinda rig. Screw resale.
We intend to keep you spinning. Sounds like you know what you want—go for it.

Gene
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:18 PM   #28
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I bought an inductive single burner (Newegg deal for $60 delivered) and can report they eat electricity on the highest setting (14 amps) but will boil water 40 seconds faster than our inverter-style Panasonic microwave on high will, and that is uncovered in a 12" frying pan versus pyrex measuring cup in the microwave.

I plan on a 20-Amp outlet under the galley counter just for a couple of inductive cook plates, and I am trying for solar power independence but no one says they have to be used on the highest setting!

A toaster-oven with the convection style heater might be a decent compromise to a traditional oven, but they are power hungry.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:45 AM   #29
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Hello J.air.doe ... I think your idea of making your unit all-electric is a great one, for several reasons. First, there is a growing number of people that want a travel trailer that is total electric - me, for one - but they are extremely hard to find. Some just don't like gas, some think gas is unsafe in such a small space ... the debate rages on. An electric unit, however, is much more efficient than gas because 100% of the energy it consumes is transferred into heat, hot water, the pan, whatever. With gas, as much as 30% of your energy goes right out the flue. Electric is safer than gas because you have the luxury of a breaker to likely stop unwanted flow. Gas is not unsafe by any means if used correctly, but a breaker won't stop a ruptured gas line. And, let's face it, in today's society you have GOT to have AC to power the TV or laptop or charge those cellphones that life would be unsupportable without! So, if you already HAVE to have electric, why not go all the way and alleviate the need for two fuel source requirements?

This is a hotly debated topic and folks will say gas is easier, some mention resale and on and on, but the bottom line is what do you want and what is right for your application. The "gas folks" aren't telling you that an LP furnace will rip through a full 20# tank in about three days. If all-electric is your fancy then go for it and then come back and post the results here for folks like me fascinated with the possibility. Remember, travel trailers are like trousers. What fits one guy, won't fit another so basically you've got to find the breeches that are the best comfort for you.

In my experience, inverters nor batteries will do an effective job of operating AC appliances while in-tow and definitely not the repertoire you mentioned using. A DC refrigerator, however, along with your inverter and batteries WILL suffice while in-tow and then the remainder of your appliances will work once you reconnect with shore power.

So good luck to you and if you do go all the way, I'd love to read about it when you're all done! Happy trails!
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:46 AM   #30
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I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you zendog.

There seems to be someone here about every 90 days, who having spent a 2-3 hours doing internet research, declares that they know better than 80 years of trailer experience that all-electric is the way to go.

Some have undergone the process which solves many problems and seems to raise many problems.

Butane/Propane is a proven clean portable, storeable fuel for heat/hot water/cooking and refrigeration. 12V electrics well great for LED lights, Fans, Pumps, Radio and entertainment.

If you are talking about a motor home running on diesel with a on board on demand diesel gen, then you have a platform to go all electric and ditch the LPG. This is how the interstates should run.
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:19 AM   #31
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As long as you are committed to staying where shore power is available, go for it. Remember electric heat is the most expensive energy available. It's even worse if you have to burn diesel or gas to produce the electricity. Current bushes are hard to find in the outback and running a genny spoils the experience with noise.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:25 AM   #32
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TimHortons ... I happen to prefer electric over gas and that's based on my personal experience over the past 50 years and not some transient research via the Internet. FOR ME, electric is a better choice but I'm not attempting in any way to sell your or anyone one way or another. J.air.doe stated he wanted to do it. I agree with him and if he does it, I'd love to see the outcome. Where's the harm in that? Did it really warrant your comment?
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:06 AM   #33
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I don't buy the safer argument. Seems to me that electrocution is a much more likely prospect in a trailer with metal shells and metal ribs with wires running through them plugged into questionably-wired outlets, than an explosion from a gas leak.

I also think people aren't familiar with the safeties in the propane system, such as the excess flow shutoff in the regulators. Think of it as a circuit breaker for propane.

I'd never consider buying a trailer without a propane system; I wouldn't be able to dry camp with it. I know some motorhomes do without propane by having things like a diesel powered water heater for those times when you're camping without electricity, but that's not a solution I'd prefer.

Also, this is an old thread.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:33 AM   #34
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Certainly you can do it with all electric. Drop a 3000 watt Honda in the back of the truck and go. The specific thing I would change is the on demand hot water heater. I do not like them anyway, and for your application it would seem to be better to have a insulated tank of hot water and then switch the heating element off so it does not come on when you are running the ac or something else with a lot of draw and trip the breaker. I would want to be able to control when it heats. The compressor refrig. will be more efficient than the gas-electric ones.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:00 AM   #35
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We travel widely about the country using the simple, quiet and efficient propane and solar systems of our Airstream, sometimes we have hookups sometimes not. No generator to mess with at every stop. Can't imagine a better way to enjoy travel and camping.

Without propane we'd need a generator and lots and lots of gasoline, don't see how that's better or safer in any way.
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:59 PM   #36
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Zen dog, perhaps the question back to you is the basis for your post. Usage (lots of boon docking or not), vehicle ( an AS, 5th wheel, motorhome, van type) etc all play into an answer. Maybe this list of choices is why, as you point out, there aren't very many all electrics offered by the manufacturers. Demand is to low from the buyers.
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Old 01-31-2015, 07:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Nuclear is quiet.

Gene
There would be a market for a mountable small quiet reliable diesel generator hybrided to some lithium batteries/capacitors for surge draw. Would take most people completely off grid for a month at minimum fuss/cost.

Nobody makes one.
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:04 PM   #38
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Tim,

It is easier to have electricity for a long time boondocking, but the real limits are water—fresh water to drink, cook with and be clean, and then black and grey water to dump.

Between our 200 w. of solar and a small (1 kw.) generator, we could stay somewhere a long time, but water is the issue. Then eventually propane runs out, more quickly if it is cold.

Unless you are the real Tim Horton, aren't you Burger King now?

Gene
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Old 02-06-2015, 05:49 PM   #39
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There was a semi-retro Shasta made in 2009 called the Shasta 12. It looked like an old fashioned Shasta on the outside, but as modern as the sleekest Airstream inside. It was all electric, with no LP systems. It was a flop, and pulled from the market, primarily because of the limitations of an all electric configuration.
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:41 PM   #40
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Unless I missed it, I didn't see a mention of needing ducting around the tanks to prevent them from freezing. Certainly a consideration. There are some great diesel furnaces if a fear of propane is an issue.
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