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Old 06-27-2016, 08:49 AM   #1
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2012 27' Flying Cloud
Richmond , Virginia
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No AC Power while on shore power

I hope someone has seen and resolved this issue already.

When my 2012 27 FB Flying Cloud is plugged into shore power, occasionally (currently > daily) the AC in the trailer will inexplicably stop working. That is, all outlets go dead, TVs go off and of course, the HP/AC stops. Here are my observations so far
- All things working normally
- Heat Pump/Air Conditioner (HP/AC) is running normally
- AC Power stops working sometimes with no new load and sometimes with new loads (hair dryer or coffee maker,...)
- No breaker on Parallax 7355 tripped
- Shore power to still live (per line light indicator)

To restore AC, I have tried several things:
- replaced shore cable (did nothing)
- resetting all breakers in trailer does nothing
- resetting breakers on shore power pole does nothing
- resetting battery disconnect does nothing
- Disconnecting shore cable and moving to other 30 AMP input WORKS (side input to front generator input or from front to side)

Has anyone seen this or have suggestions on additional diagnosis?
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:52 AM   #2
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There's a recall or something. Wait til someone who knows the details chimes in. Transfer switch.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:52 AM   #3
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I don't know the exact reason but I'm pretty sure the problem lies with the electronics in your breaker box. There's these switches that manage the AC between the two exterior plugs. Somethings not right in there.

Sorry for the mostly useless answer.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:01 AM   #4
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There have been numerous transfer switch failures. This is a box near your converter that switches AC input between the two sockets, front and side. I carry a spare for that reason. You may be able to get the switch to transfer by rapping on the box. It is supposed to switch automatically to the socket that is powered.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:20 AM   #5
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Just trace from the shore plug in point to where you loose power with a voltmeter. That is the point of failure.

Your one comment that changing to another 30 amp shore power post would say the original post was intermittent and the problem. Don't rely on a light, you have no idea where the light is connected, use a meter on the terminals.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:25 AM   #6
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Power issue

I have a couple of thoughts. Could there be a short in the extension cord that is fine cold but once it heats up due to use the short expands and you have a failure ?
Could the extension cord not be of sufficient gauge ? A heavy duty 10 or 8 gauge cord has less resistance. If you have a 14 gauge cord it could be an issue.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:34 AM   #7
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My vote is for the transfer switch. IMHO because when you change to the other shore power receptacle, all is OK.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:22 PM   #8
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Changing the shore power input was THE way to reset the transfer switch, wasn't a 100% fix. Poor switch quality, chinese mfg.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:26 PM   #9
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I don't know if this will have any effect. But I was informed to make sure none of the outlets breaker tripped. Pay close attention to the one by sink under the mirror.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cazual6 View Post
I don't know if this will have any effect. But I was informed to make sure none of the outlets breaker tripped. Pay close attention to the one by sink under the mirror.
This would only effect outlets on the GFI circuit. Since the OG is losing all power the likely culprit, as has been noted above is the transfer switch. It's nothing but a big relay and is prone to failure.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #11
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Same symptoms happened once, long ago, to my vintage AS camper (which doesn't have the switching inputs/relay system your 2012 has but it might still be the cause of the issue you're encountering). I traced the problem to inside the breaker box where the shore power plug's mains wires connect. The set-screw on the mains neutral wire inside my breaker box was loose enough to result in power intermittencies. Once that set-screw was tightened, there were no more dropped power issues. And from that incident, and because we off-road our trailer a lot, I added the periodic checking/tightening task for *all* the electrical connections, including lights & sockets, outlets, fans, H2O heater, aircon & heat strip, inverter, splices/junctions, all circuit breakers, mains connections, shore power plug; and then I do the same for the 12v system's connections, including house battery, lights & switches, reefer, battery charger, fan, air compressor, breakaway, brakes, & the plugs to/from my tow vehicles.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:28 PM   #12
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Hello,

I remember calling our Airstream Dealer to discuss the inability to run the AC on shore power (here at home). The first question asked was : " Are you sure that the source of power is on at least a 30amp "breaker""? I stammered and admitted that I had no idea. It wasn't. So, being illiterate to the technical ISSUES, all I can add is "be sure the source of your shore power" is adequate to meet your requirements. The AC needs a min of 30amps.....anything else used needs more. Always nice to have 50 amp service at compgrounds......not available from the hookup in my barn.

Cheers,

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Old 06-28-2016, 09:32 AM   #13
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UPDATE and follow-up questions

Things got much worse. The AC was failing every 2 - 10 minutes I tested all the cables and voltages. All looked good. After disconnecting the batteries and shore power, I opened the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) and inspected. The internal clear plastic enclose was warm/hot and smelled of over heated/fried electronics. Due to my situation (did I fail to mention that I am on a family trip with 4 people and a dog in the middle of Florida ~ 95 degrees), I decided to by-pass the switch. In the ATS, I disconnected the shore power (side input) white and black and the switch's output white and black wires. With large wire nuts, I securely connected the w-w and b-b wires. I left the generator wires and ground wires in place. So far, AC power is holding.

QUESTIONS:
- Does the temporary fix seem appropriate (and safe)? Should I be concerned about anything? Should I be monitoring anything?
- For long term, should I replace with the same model (I think it is a 301) or should I find a different ATS OR should I get a totally new power system?

Thank you all for you suggestions and guidance.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:47 AM   #14
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If you now have power it should be fine. The only hesitation would be if you were feeding power to the unused connection on the outside of the trailer. Check it for voltage as a safety factor but having only delt with 4 wires you should be fine.

When you are home I would go to an electrical supply house and see if they have a switch that would replace that Chinese part. I would not trust Airstream to do it correctly under a recall.
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