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Old 08-03-2007, 09:39 AM   #15
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excellent! are you able to verify that your DC power supply is receiving shore power? My reasoning is that there is a big fat fuse that is between the battery and DC fuse block and if that one is bad then everything you are describing would make some sense.
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billberk
I'm guessing I touch the leads from the voltage meter to the posts of the red and white wires on the CD panel to check voltage. That sound correct?
Actually, there is no 'big fat fuse' in this type of DC distribution panel. See the 2 green 30 ampers in the middle.......those are the control fuses for the panel. If they are OK, and there is no 12VDC when measured at the big red and white wires.......I fear that the converter is toast!
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:11 PM   #17
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I'm now the proud owner of a volt meter. If I'm using it correctly I am getting an output reading of 3.8......not so good. I touched the negative lead from the volt meter to the white wire terminal and the positive lead to the red wire post to get my reading.

If I understand continuity checking, I should get the same reading with my negative volt meter lead to the white terminal post, and the positive volt meter lead to each fuse on the panel.

Oh well.....the learning curve continues. I think my converter is toast. Didn't even last until the maiden voyage. Hope the next one lasts a little longer.

Thanks for your insight lewster, you've been very helpful.
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:01 PM   #18
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Sorry, thanks for everyones insight!
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Old 08-03-2007, 11:36 PM   #19
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Bill,

You're doing good enough to get your Junior RV Tech wings . Anyway, continuity is tested on the resistance (ohms) scale. If you put the meter leads across the fuse, you should get a reading, telling you that the fuse is passing current and is functional. If you get no reading, then the fuse is bad with a broken wire inside.

Sometimes, a fuse will 'look' good from the outside and will not stand up to the continuity test. If you just looked at it, you might bypass the real problem and be bewildered for hours.

At 3.8 volts output, your converter is shot and needs to be replaced under warranty! An option is to carry a good 3-stage battery charger with you. Start your trip with your battery fully charged and when you are in a campground, keep the charger connected to the battery and you should have sufficient DC power to operate the trailer, as the current flows both ways and the charger, keeping the battery up will also provide DC to the DC fuse panel and all of the circuits.
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Old 08-04-2007, 05:58 AM   #20
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Thanks Lew,

Does this mean I can have one of those cool shirts with my name over the pocket?

The trick now is to find a repair facility in my area to do the work. Based on my experience yesterday, I may be driving all the way back to the dealership in AR for the repair.
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:46 AM   #21
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Bill,

First I would call your selling dealer and make sure that the defective unit is under warranty (it should be with the 2 year warranty from Airstream). It is not a difficult procedure to change out a converter, especially if it's the identical unit.

Any Airstream dealer should be able to do it for you. If you were not in the warranty period, I would suggest upgrading the converter, but this isn't an option under the warranty coverage.
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Old 08-12-2007, 04:10 PM   #22
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I ordered the WFCO upgrade from Best Converter and installed it myself today. It wasn't difficult. Everything seems to be working like a charm now.
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billberk
I ordered the WFCO upgrade from Best Converter and installed it myself today. It wasn't difficult. Everything seems to be working like a charm now.
GOOD COICE! That was the first thing I did when I got my CCD. You and your batteries will be very happy!
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