New outlets / GFCI protection question

[bredlo]

I have an AC wiring run (which doesn't include the fridge) which will have several outlets along its length. 3 will be near windows, and 2 near sinks.

From what I'm reading, it seems I can add GFCI protection to all of them at once back at the source, rather than having to use the outlets with the little reset switches on the face.

Does this mean that as long as I find something shallow enough if I place it in our walls, I can use any 3-hole outlets I choose? Or do I still need to have a certain specification of outlet when it could potentially get wet?

[mandolindave]

Or just one GFI outlet in the circuit, which would be the least expensive. I don't like to use the outlet GFIs because, they take up so much space, that I end up struggling to fit the wires into the outlet box.

They way I understand it. There are kinda 3 generations of GFI outlets.

The first generation, that went bad after a while.

The second generation that were fairly good.

The new generation that are the best…..but in a pain in the neck way. They almost trip too easily. For example…if you have a lamp that is not plugged in, but it's switch is in the on position…it will trip the breaker when you plug it in.

[Al and Missy]

Based on my home experience, you can make the first outlet in the string a GFCI and feed the others from it. Make sure that you are not feeding the trailer from a GFCI or the two may interact. My house hase regular outlets near the sinks and outside under snap covers (fed from GFCIs).

Al

[bredlo]

Thanks, Dave. I think either of those solutions would work for us. We'll almost certainly be buying new, but I'd rather put up with the occasional hassle of having one trip when it shouldn't... than not trip when we need it.

[bredlo]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Make sure that you are not feeding the trailer from a GFCI or the two may interact.

Not that I paid much attention at campgrounds, but wouldn't that power pole be GFCI? I can see how it would make sense... but in that situation there would surely be a lot of people who couldn't help but be supplying the trailer from a protected line.

[Al and Missy]

I don't think I have seen a GFCI on a Pedestal at a CG. If there is a conventional 15 A outlet in the pedestal it might be a GFCI. I have seen several posts on here saying that feeding a trailer with GFCIs from a GFCI breaker has caused problems.

[bredlo]

Interesting. I'll try to just follow what everyone else does here, and presume there won't be any drama.

[Al and Missy]

If you go to nfpa.org and click on the free access to codes button and select NFPA70 you can find the section on rvs and rv parks. It will tell you what is required. But you basically have it right. Each outlet near a sink, or outside, must be GFCI protected.

Al

[noremark]

You are right there only has to be one GFCI at the first box. Power will go into the GFCI at the two screws that are labeled source, then there are another two screws that might say something like load. that is where the run going down the line to the rest of the outlets are terminated (or attached).

Depending on your breaker box there are Breakers with built in GFCI. that saves stuffing GFCI in those little shallow wall boxes.

[bredlo]

Thanks guys,

Appreciate the info - it's just what I needed to know. Backing up for a moment to the theory behind GFCI itself, is there any measurable difference between tripping a GFCI integrated into the outlet itself, vs. 30 feet away at the breaker? I assume both installations will keep me alive if I drop a hairdryer into the sink -- but it seems so counterintuitive to me that both options truly provide equal protection.